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Most motorcycle manufacturers suggest that the brake fluid be changed or flushed every 2 to 3 years, and the level should be checked approximately every 100 to 200 miles.

Air bubbles can infiltrate the master cylinder reservoir and affect the brake pads. The master cylinder should be filled with the right brake fluid. Fluid manufacturers recommend glucol based fluids and silicone based fluids for the master cylinder reservoir. Mixing brands and old fluid affect the master cylinder and hinder the flow of brake fluid regularly. The brake system and brake pads have a direct impact on the master cylinder of the motorcycle.

Obviously, according to the manufacturer, I’m a bit late in the brake fluid department, but, is it really necessary to change it that often? Why do they suggest this?

Why you Should Flush the Brake Fluid

Brake fluid doesn’t last forever. Over time, with constant heating, then cooling, it begins to degrade and because glycol based brake fluids are hygroscopic, it absorbs water. If the water content within the brake fluid gets to be too high, it can be less effective or can cause damage to your calpers, resulting in an expensive repair.

While not as common, sometimes a leaky seal, leaking hose clamp or simply not putting the reservoir lid on properly, can cause air to get into the brake lines. This will cause mushy and ineffective braking and the best way to get rid of the air, is to flush the brake fluid. Be sure to repair or replace any parts that may have been causing the leak in the first place.

Lastly, the brake fluid could become dirty or contaminated if the reservoir covers are removed without proper care in keeping the work area clean of dust and debris.

How to Check Brake Fluid Levels

Every motorcycle will have two brake fluid reservoirs, one for the front brakes and one for the rear. The front reservoir is the easiest to find because it almost always sits on top of the handlebars next to the front brake lever.

The rear brake reservoir location will depend on what motorcycle you own. It might be tucked behind body panels or behind the rear brake pegs, but they are often found fairly close to the rear brake and should be visible without taking off any parts.

The reservoirs can be round or square, some are opaque so you can see the fluid level at a glance, and some have a small, round window to check the level. All of them will come with two indicator lines on the outside of the reservoir. Your fluid level should always be between those lines. Never above the top line, and never below the bottom line.

When you check the fluid level, always make sure the motorcycle is standing upright so you get an accurate reading. Sometimes, to check the front reservoir, you have to turn your handlebars slightly to make sure the reservoir is flat, or level to the ground.

Each time your ride, or every week or two, do a visual inspection of both front and rear fluid levels. Top them off if necessary before you ride.

How to Top Off Brake Fluid

Topping off the brake fluid is quick and simple but there are a few precautions you should take. The last thing you want to do is get air or dirt into the fuel lines.

With your motorcycle level, place a towel on any painted surface to protect it from drips or spills. Remove the cap of the reservoir and set the cap on a clean, dust free surface. Some front brake reservoirs will have a lid that is secured by two screws. Simply remove the screw to get the lid off.

Next, remove the seal and inspect it for wear, cracks, or tears. Place it on a clean surface as well. Now pour a small amount of brake fluid into the reservoir until it is between the two indicator lines, closer to the top line, but do not fill it above the top line.

It’s important that you DO NOT compress the brake system when the reservoir cover is off and the bleeder valve is closed. The compression of the brake calipers could cause the brake fluid to overflow out of the reservoir. Messy. Brake fluid is very corrosive and flammable.

Once the reservoir is topped off to the proper level, carefully replace the seal and the lid, and you’re done. It’s as simple as that, and only takes a couple of minutes.

What Type of Brake Fluid Should You Use?

DOT 3, DOT 4, DOT 5, DOT 5.1? Which one should you use? The main difference between these brake fluids is their boiling points. Motorcycle brakes function at high temperatures and you want to reduce the risk of boiling the brake fluid as much as possible.

Usually, riders who demand high performance from their motorcycles will use a brake fluid with a higher boiling point. Those who race, or push their limits during a track day, will use their brakes heavily causing more heat. However, for a common or conservative street rider, the high boiling point is not as much of a factor.

Here’s a quick reference of boiling points for all four fluids.

	Dry boiling point	Wet boiling point
DOT 3	205 °C (401 °F)	140 °C (284 °F)
DOT 4	230 °C (446 °F)	155 °C (311 °F)
DOT 5	260 °C (500 °F)	180 °C (356 °F)
DOT 5.1	260 °C (500 °F)	180 °C (356 °F)

You can see that the boiling point for 5 and 5.1 are the same. What’s the difference? DOT 5 is a silicone based fluid while DOT 5.1, and all the others, are glycol based. People weren’t happy with the silicone base fluid because it was susceptible to creating more condensation in the lines. Glycol based fluids are hygroscopic (water absorbing) so, that’s why DOT 5.1 was developed.

In my opinion, based on the research I’ve done, use either DOT 4 or DOT 5.1. I personally keep it consistent and always use DOT 4 as I don’t need the high performance capabilities of the DOT 5.1.

A few precautions to take:

• Don’t use DOT 3 brake fluid in your motorcycle. The boiling point is too low which could result in brake failure.
• Never mix DOT 5 with ANY other brake fluid. It is silicone based while all other brake fluids are glycol based.
• Dispose of used brake fluid properly based on the waste and disposal regulations in your town or county. Do not dump it down the drain or on the ground. That’s just nasty.

How to Flush your Motorcycle Brake Fluid

Flushing your brake fluid is not a difficult or complicated job and can usually be done by most home mechanics. Bleeding kits like this one on Amazon are handy, but you really don’t need any fancy equipment to get the job done.

Tools and parts needed:

• Silicone tubing to fit over the bleed valve
• Bottle of Dot 4 Brake Fluid
• Container to hold old brake fluid
• Ring spanner wrenches to fit your bleed valves, usually 8mm

Steps for Front Brake

1. Use the spanner to loosen the bleed valve but keep it tight enough so the fluid doesn’t come out. Leave your wrench on the valve nut.
2. Attach the tubing to end of the bleed valve and make sure you have a good seal.
3. Place the other end of the tube and place it in a container for draining.
4. Remove the cover from the brake fluid reservoir and inspect the seal for wear. If there are holes or cracks allowing air or contaminants to get in, you’ll need to replace it.
5. With a bottle of fresh brake fluid ready to pour into the reservoir.
6. Next, you’ll pump the old fluid through the system while replacing it with new fluid. Do it exactly like this: Open the bleed valve with the spanner; squeeze the brake lever and hold it; close the bleed valve; release the brake lever. Do it just like that several times while keeping an eye on the reservoir. DO NOT LET THE FLUID GET TOO LOW.
7. Top off the reservoir with new fluid.
8. Repeat step 6 and 7 until you start to see the new fluid coming out of the bleed valve.
9. Final step is to close off the valve, remove the tubing, do a final top-off of the brake fluid and place the seal and cap back on to the reservoir making sure there is no excess air.

Steps for the Rear Brake

The steps for bleeding the rear brake fluid are exactly the same procedure as for the front brakes. The only difference, depending on your make or model of motorcycle, is the accessibility of the rear bleed valve, the reservoir, and the ability to press the rear brake lever.

Sometimes it helps to get some help from a friend or grab one of your kids to come and push the lever for you. Also, the rear brake reservoir is often smaller than the front one, so make sure you keep a close eye on the level and top it off before air gets into the system.

Inspecting and Flushing your motorcycle brake fluid should be a part of your regular pre-ride inspection and a part of your annual, or 2 year maintenance plan. It’s a good idea to keep a supply of brake fluid in your garage if you ever need to top it off.

You can also find related products on Amazon. Follow the affiliate links below.

• Clear brake bleeder tubing with one-way valve
• 8mm simple Motorcycle brake bleeder kit.
• Motul DOT 4 synthetic brake fluid for motorcycles
• Brembo DOT 5.1 high performance brake fluid for motorcycles

Reading Time: 17 minutes

The sun is out, the weather is warm, and you’re ready to ride. But, is your motorcycle ready for riding season? This guide will help you get your bike ready to be safe on the road whether it’s been sitting for a couple of months, or for a couple of years.

There are some basic checks that you should do every time you ride, and those are listed first in this article. Then, we will go into a more thorough inspection list for motorcycles that have been sitting unused for a few months, and, an even more thorough check list for bikes that have been in storage for a year or more.

Pre-Ride Checklist

Let’s start with a pre-ride checklist. This is a quick inspection that you should do often during riding season. A pre-ride check only takes a few minutes and can save you a lot of hassles on the road. It’s best to do this inspection a day or two prior to a planned ride so, if anything needs maintenance or repairs, you have time to do so.

Pro Tip: Pre-Ride check may be all you need to do if you have a new motorcycle, or if it’s only been a few months since your last ride.

• Tire pressure: Adjust the PSI to match the type of riding you do. Lower PSI for dirt riding, higher if you’re riding fully loaded with gear.
• Tire Condition – check the tread wear, look for cracks in sidewalls.
• Chain tension – there should be about 1.2 to 1.6 inches in slack.
• Chain condition – inspect the chain for excessive wear, kinks, rust, dirt and grit. The chain should be lubricated every 300 to 500 miles.
• Oil level – hold the motorcycle level, off the kickstand, and check the oil through the sight window. Make sure it is between the full and low lines. Top off if necessary.
• Turn signals – test front and rear sets of turn signals to make sure they all come on.
• Brake light – Apply the front brake and the back brake individually to make sure the brake light comes on for both.
• Headlight, low and high beam – Make sure both beams are working
• Give the horn a quick blast. You never know when it will come in handy.

Post Winter Storage Checklist

If you live in a part of the world where riding becomes close to impossible during the winter months, you’re likely to let your motorcycle sit in the garage waiting for spring.

Or, if you’ve had your motorcycle sitting in the barn, left alone and forgotten, maybe it’s time to get it up and running again. This thorough checklist will help you keep track of everything that you should inspect, repair and/or replace.

1. Inspect and Inflate Tires

Check the tire’s age. Check the four digit date code on the sidewall. The first number is the week, the second number is the year. For example, if you see the number 1419, the tire was made in the 14th week of 2019. Tires are generally rated to last 5 years.

Check the tread wear. You can do this two ways.

1. Stick a penny with Lincoln’s head inside the tread. If you can see the top of Lincoln’s head, your tires are worn and should be replaced.
2. Within the grooves of your tires you will find tread wear indicators, or tiny bars. If they are flush with the surface or your tire, your tires need replacing.

Tire pressure. Check the owner’s manual for the recommended pressure. Take into consideration what type of riding you do. If you do basic street riding, the recommended PSI should be sufficient. However, if your motorcycle will be loaded with luggage, you should increase the pressure by 1 or 2 PSI.

Pro Tip: The PSI printed on the sidewall is actually the maximum the tire will hold, but it is not the correct PSI for riding.

If you have tires with tubes, be sure to replace the tubes at the same time you replace the tires.

2. Inspect the Wheels

If you have alloy wheels, inspect them for cracks. Especially if you just acquired a previously owned motorcycle. A cracked wheel may also mean the wheel is bent. You can get a cracked or bent wheel welded and repaired by a specialty shop in lieu of buying a new wheel.

Also check the bead of the rim for dents. Hitting a pothole while riding can often bend the rim and we don’t always realize it. A minor dent is usually not a problem, but, a larger dent could cause a surprise blowout. It’s best to have dents inspected and repaired by a professional.

If you have spoked wheels, inspect the wheel for broken spokes. Then, using a spoke torque wrench (found here on Amazon), tighten each spoke to the recommended amount of torque. A tip to keeping your wheel true and prevent wobble, is to tighten every 4th spoked as you go around the wheel.

3. Check for Wear in Brake Pads

Visually inspect the brake pads on both front and rear brakes. If there is less than 3mm thickness, replace them. Sometimes this is difficult to see when the brakes are still on the bike, even with a flashlight. If you suspect that they are close to worn, it would be a good idea to quickly remove the brake caliper from the wheel and measure the brake pad to be sure.

If you ride your motorcycle with worn brake pads, there is a chance of metal grinding against metal, causing damage to the rotors. Unlike a car’s brake rotors, motorcycle rotors can’t be turned and trued, and will have to be replaced if damaged.

4. Check Brake Fluid Level and Clarity

Check the level of brake fluid in the reservoir located on the handlebars, usually near the front brake lever. Most of them have a sight window. Make sure the motorcycle is level and cold. The fluid line should be between the full and low indicators.

If it is low, you can carefully add a minimal amount of brake fluid to top it off. It usually only takes a couple of tablespoons. Do not overfill. Also, use only the recommended DOT brake fluid. While most cars use DOT3, motorcycles almost always use DOT4 which is designed to withstand the high head motorcycle brakes can often produce. Check your owner’s manual for the correct type of fluid for your bike.

Tips for adding brake fluid:

• Keep everything clean
• Prevent dust or debris from getting into the reservoir
• Make sure your hands and tools are clean
• Always clean the surface of the reservoir before removing the cap
• Lay towels over your motorcycle’s tank and plastics to protect it from accidental spills or splashes. Brake fluid can easily damage the paint.

Pro Tip: NEVER squeeze the brake levers with the reservoir top removed. Doing so can cause air to enter the brake lines and require you to completely bleed the lines and ad new fluid.

If the brake fluid appears dark and cloudy, or if the bike has been sitting idle for more than a couple of years, you should bleed the brakes lines and add fresh brake fluid to the system. Follow this link to read about how to bleed your brakes.

5. Inspect Front Forks for Leaks

Visually inspect the fork seals and look for any signs of fork oil leaking around the seals or dripping down the fork onto the brakes. Sometimes leaky seals will collect dirt in the fork seal area. Check for cracks at the edges of the seals. If your forks have dust covers, inspect them for cracks, rips or holes.

Most motorcycles require that the fork oil be replaced every two years, but, if they are not leaking, and your front suspension is still performing well, the oil can last much longer. Most forks only need maintenance every 12,000 miles, but, check your motorcycle owner’s manual for the recommended replacement intervals.

6. Test the Battery

If you own a motorcycle, you’re certain to be familiar with a battery tender. If not, you can purchase one on Amazon. Keeping your motorcycle plugged in to a trickle charger like that is one of the best ways to keep your battery fully charged when you’re not riding. But, you should still do a check on your battery depending on a few factors.

When was the last time the battery was replaced? If you’re not sure, test it to see how much charge is left on your current battery. If the battery is dead, try giving a start with a portable charger, or use these other jump starting methods found in this article. Or, you can place it on a trickle charger over night, then test it to see if it’s holding a charge. If not, time to replace it.

Visibly inspect the battery terminals for signs of corrosion and clean the terminals if necessary. If you do not have a sealed, maintenance-free battery, check the fluid level in each cell and top it off with distilled water.

7. Check All Lights

Do a visual inspection of all lights on your motorcycle. The headlight and tail lights should be on when you turn on the ignition. Test the high beams on your headlight. If they don’t come on, it’s time to replace the bulb.

Test the brake lights with both the front brake lever and rear brake pedal separately. Test all turn signals, left and right, front and rear.

If you have any auxiliary lights, or other lighted safety features, such as a flashing license plate frame, test them all to make sure all bulbs are functioning properly, and they turn on when they are supposed to.

8. Inspect Clutch Cable for Wear

Do a visual inspection of clutch cable at the point where it connects to the lever as you pull the lever in. This is the most common area where they start to fray. If even one of the cable wires is broken, the cable should be replaced.

If the cable looks blackened and dirty, or if the clutch lever seems stiff, lubricate the cable. You don’t always have to take the cable completely off the motorcycle to do this.

Disconnect both ends of the cable, and spray lubricant down the cable until it comes out the other side. Slide the cable back and forth inside the housing to distribute the lube. Reinstall each end and tighten the adjuster to get just the right friction zone in the clutch lever.

9. Inspect and Test Throttle Cable

A motorcycle throttle will have two cables, a push cable, and a return cable. To test the throttle cables, Roll the throttle back, then let it go. It should immediately snap back into place. If it sticks, it’s time to lube the cables.

Use the same method as lubing the clutch cable: remove the cables at the throttle end and squirt cable lubricant down the cable. When you reinstall the cables to the throttle, adjust the free-play according to your motorcycle’s specifications, usually only a few millimeters.

If you find any rust on the cables, or any broken strands, then replace the cables with new ones. A broken throttle cable can leave you stranded.

10. Check Oil Level

• Start the engine and let it warm up to normal operating temperature
• Turn it off and let it sit for about 5 minutes
• Place the bike on a level surface and stand it up straight with both wheels on the ground
• Inspect the oil by looking at the sight window located on the right side of the bike, near the bottom of the engine casing.
• The oil level should be in between the two lines located next to the window
• Top off the oil a little at a time if it is below the bottom line.
• Be careful not to over fill, which can damage the seals on the engine casing. If the oil is higher than the top fill line, it is recommended that you change the oil and fill it to the correct level.

Note: Some motorcycles have dip-sticks to check the oil, but the same rules apply regarding oil level.

11. Check the Oil Condition

Generally, the oil should be changed about every 5,000 miles. But, if you don’t know the last time it was changed, you can tell by inspecting the color and clarity of the oil.

The oil should be a golden color and it should be translucent. If the oil is dark brown, grey, or foggy, it’s probably time for an oil change.

Open the oil fill cap and check for any unusual odors. The smell of gas inside the oil can be an indication of a problem with the fuel system, or the carburetors.

Check the engine casing for any oil leaks. Works better if you wash the bike first, then let it sit for a few days. If you see anything leaking, look for the source and resolve the issue.

Depending on how long the motorcycle has been sitting idle, you may have to do some work on the fuel system, which includes the gas tank, fuel lines, fuel filters, petcock, and carburetors. The next section addresses everything related to fuel system.

12. Check the Gas Tank

• Inspect the inside of the gas tank for rust. When a motorcycle is stored, it should have a full tank of gas with a fuel stabilizer additive. This will prevent rust from developing.
• If the tank is rusted on the inside, it needs to be properly cleaned before it can be used again. But, the good news is, rust usually doesn’t form unless a bike has been sitting in a barn for a few years.
• If the gas inside the tank is more than 6 months old, it should be drained and replaced with new fuel.

13. Check for Fuel Leaks

Once you get fuel running through the engine, check all the areas that fuel runs through.

• Check all fuel lines for leaks or cracks, especially at the ends where they connect.
• Check the fuel switch, or petcock, for leaks.

14. Do the Carburetors Need Cleaning?

Often, if a bike has been sitting for a long time, the carburetor jets can become clogged and the engine will run rough, or will run only with the clutch open. There are a lot of different symptoms that indicate dirty carbs, so, if it makes sense for you, take the time to clean the carbs.

• Start by running some Seafoam through the carbs to remove varnish or residue created by old gasoline. This may be all you need to do.
• Next step is to remove the carbs and clean, clean the jets, and inspect the needles.
• If cleaning doesn’t work, you can purchase a carburetor rebuild kit for your make and model, and replace the jets and needles.

15. Inspect the Spark Plugs and Gap

When was the last time the spark plugs were inspected or changed? If it’s been over 5,000 miles, you should inspect them. The condition of the plugs can tell you a lot about how the engine is running. Check out this article on when to replace spark plugs.

Changing the spark plugs often involves removing the gas tank, but, it’s a very basic DIY repair job that is inexpensive and doesn’t take long to do. Lastly, use a gap tool to measure and adjust the spark plug gap.

Pro Tip: Install spark plugs that are designed to withstand high heat. NGK is an excellent brand for motorcycles.

16. Inspect the Air Filter

When was the last time the air filter was changed? Motorcycle air filters come in a wide range of styles, sizes and shapes, and a visual inspection on some filters can be difficult.

However, some motorcycle allow easy access to the air filter and are a style that allows you to view how much dust and dirt has accumulated.

Some air filters are washable, allowing you to clean them with water, let them dry completely, then place it back in the motorcycle.

It’s best to check your motorcycle owner’s manual for the filter replacement interval and use that information to make your decision.

17. Clean, Lube and Adjust the Chain

While chain maintenance is part of a pre-ride check list, if the bike has been sitting for a while, now is the time to do a little extra maintenance work.

• Clean the chain with a cleaner designed specifically for chains with seals. Or, use Kerosine to remove grease and dirt. Kerosine won’t corrode the seals and has a fairly low ignition point making it safe to use in a ventilated area. Never use engine degreaser or gasoline to clean a chain.
• Once clean, lubricate the chain with your favorite style of chain lube or chain wax.
• Inspect the chain for signs of rust, kinks, or too much stretch.
• Adjust the tension on the chain so that there is approximately 1 inch of slack.

Related Article: Should You Use WD-40 on Your Motorcycle Chain?

18. Inspect Wiring Harnesses

Grab a flashlight and visually inspect all wire housings for wear. Look under the instrument panel or behind any front fairings for wires that have slipped out of their ties, or are dangling loose.

Make sure none of the wiring is pinched or touching the engine or exhaust; or anything that can melt the housing. If you see any exposed wires, secure them with zip ties, or wrap them with electrical tape to avoid a short.

19. Check the Coolant Level

Check your motorcycle owner’s manual to see where your bike’s coolant overflow tank is located. Most will have indicator lines to tell you if more coolant is needed. Top it off if necessary.

When was the last time the coolant was flushed? Check your owner’s manual for the recommended interval, and do a flush and replace if necessary.

Inspect all the hoses coming from the radiator to make sure they are free from cracks and that the clips are secure.

20. Inspect the Frame for Cracks or Rust

Do a quick inspection of the frame. It’s better to do this step if you have removed the gas tank as you’ll have better access to the entire frame. You are looking for hairline cracks which most often occur at the weld points.

Also inspect the frame or any other metal portions for rust. This is usually not a problem for most motorcycles unless it’s been sitting in a barn for years.

21. Check for any missing clips, cotter pins, zip ties.

Little bits of hardware like clips on hoses, a cotter pin on the rear axle bolt, or zip ties holding everything secure and in place, are important details to keep your motorcycle running properly and keep you safe.

Go around the motorcycle and make sure all these pieces are in good condition and are tightened and secure.

The mechanics of your motorcycle are not the only things you should check when you’re getting ready for riding season. There are other little details that will make your life a lot easier when you’re out on the road.

22. Assemble an On-Board Tool Kit

Most motorcycles will come new with a tool kit. A very minimal tool kit. An on-board tool kit is a compact set of basic tools that you can store under your seat. It should contain tools needed to do the most basic repairs on the road.

Take some time to gather tools that are specific to your motorcycle. Include things like zip ties, spare fuses, a bit of duct tape and electrical tape.

Check out this article about on-board tool kits.

23. Updated Paperwork

One of the items you need to carry with you at all times is your registration and proof of insurance paperwork. Make sure you have the most current printouts on board with you. Most riders will carry a copy protected in a zip-lock plastic bag, stored under the seat.

If you’re motorcycle camping, and you have luggage or a duffle bag packed on top of your seat, it’s a good idea to store your paperwork somewhere that is easily accessible.

Pro Tip: I always keep some cash stored in a plastic bag under my seat. You never know when some extra cash could come in handy.

24. Keys

Where did you put the keys? This is the time to make sure you know where your spare key is. Make sure you have all the keys to your locking side cases, or top case. Find a place to keep your motorcycle key so you always know where it is if you get the urge to ride.

25. Clean and Polish the Motorcycle

Your last step is to give your motorcycle a good bath and polish up all the chrome bits and shiny pieces.

26. Bonus Step: Get Your Riding Gear Ready

Make sure all your gear is in good condition. Keep your helmet, gloves, boots, everything handy where you need it when you get the riding bug. Saddle bags, tank bag, should be stored in their designated garage area so they are easy to find and grab.

Keep a few necessities in your tank bag at all times. Things like chapstick, phone charger, hair brush for riders with long hair, hat, bandana, or whatever you might need on the ride.

Taking the time to go through this pre-season checklist will insure that you’ll have a smooth, trouble free riding season.

Reading Time: 11 minutes

Chain maintenance is one of the first things you should learn about when you own a motorcycle. Without a well-fitted and properly lubricated chain, there’s no way to transfer power from the engine to the wheels. But chains wear out over time and need replacing.

So, how often should a motorcycle chain be replaced? In general, a properly maintained motorcycle can last 20,000 to 30,000 miles, sometimes more. But, some last as little as 5,000 to 10,000 miles. This difference is due to the type of chain, how and where you ride, and how well you maintain it.

Type of chain
Older style chains that do not have O-ring or X seals will not last as long as modern chains with seals. They are more difficult to keep clean because dirt and moisture can get inside the pins and rollers. If they are not constantly kept clean and properly lubed, they will not last the 30,000 plus miles that a sealed chain will last.

O-ring and X seal chains are designed to keep dirt and moisture away from the pins and rollers and to keep a special lubricant inside. As long as you use cleaners and lubricants that do not deteriorate those seals, your chain will last a long time.

Type of Riding
Riding in rough conditions, such as off-road, doing water crossings, or riding in mud or sand, will make it more difficult to clean and maintain the chain and possibly lessen the life of your chain.

Also, excess stress on the chain and sprockets due to racing, track days, constant high speeds, will cause the average chain to wear more quickly. It’s recommended to upgrade to a high-performance chain and sprocket set if you do a lot of track riding or racing.

Chain Maintenance
It goes without saying that improper chain maintenance will cause your chain to deteriorate much sooner. Regular cleaning and lubricating of your chain are probably one of the most important maintenance items you can do, so, clean, lube, inspect your chain on a frequent basis.

Signs that Your Chain Needs Replacing

Chain inspection should be a part of your pre-ride check inspection. It’s just as important as tire pressure and oil level. There are a few things to look for that will tell you when your chain needs replacing.

Rust
Rust can form fairly quickly if your motorcycle gets wet and the chain is not properly lubed. A little surface rust does not always mean your chain is completely ruined, but if the pins and rollers are also rusted, it likely means the seals are bad. In that case, it’s time to replace the chain.

Kinks
Look for links that are stuck causing kinks in the chain. Kinks indicate a weak point where the seals are no longer keeping dust and dirt out of the pins. This weak point is at greater risk of breaking and can cause excess wear on your sprockets.

Noise
A normal chain will make a little noise, but it’s smooth, not clunky. If your chain is making a rattling noise or squeaking, it’s a sign that it needs your attention. If normal cleaning and lubrication don’t get rid of the noises, then replacement is recommended.

Over-Stretched
Chain stretch is normal over time, but there is only so far a chain can stretch before the links are weakened. In fact, the word “stretch” is sort of a misnomer. Your motorcycle isn’t actually pulling a chain hard enough to physically stretch the metal. Instead, the holes where the links attach to each other wear and get slightly larger over time, so the chain appears to expand. In any case, if you find that you can no longer adjust your chain to the proper tension, it’s time for a replacement.

Here’s a good method for checking to see if your chain is stretched too far. For safety, make sure the motorcycle is OFF! With one hand, press down on the top of the chain to add tension. Then check the chain tension around the rear sprocket. The chain should be tight equally, all the way around the sprocket. If portions of it are loose, that means the chain is stretched.

Here’s another way to check to see if your chain is stretched. When your chain is new you should measure the distance between 100 links. Write it down and whenever you take the chain off to clean it measure again. When you can only fit 99 links in the same space you need to change out your chain and sprockets.

How Dangerous is a Worn Out Chain?

Does it really matter if you ride on a worn chain and sprockets? The honest answer is yes, it matters a great deal. A broken chain while riding can be extremely dangerous.

The best case scenario is when the chain breaks, you lose power, and simply pull over to the side of the road and call for a tow.

In the worst-case scenario, a broken chain can be potentially lethal, especially if it causes you to crash at a high speed. Imagine cruising at 70mph, your chain breaks and gets tangled in the rear wheel, ceasing it up.

Another possibility if for the chain to whip around your legs, ankles, and feet, potentially causing injury. Proper riding boots will help, but, any unprotected ankles or feet could end up cut or broken. Ouch.

A broken chain can be flung from the motorcycle into traffic, causing a hazard to other drivers. It’s easy to see why a broken chain is the last thing you want on your ride.

Replace the Sprockets Too? Yes, or No?

A common rule is to replace both front and rear sprockets every time you replace your chain. This is a good rule to follow if your chain has lasted for its full life of, say, 15,000 miles.

But, sometimes a sprocket replacement can wait in cases where you’re replacing a prematurely worn chain. Nevertheless, you should inspect your rear sprocket for signs of wear during normal motorcycle maintenance days.

If you were to replace your chain and keep your old, worn-down sprockets, it will wear out your new chain faster. Likewise, if you replace your sprockets, without replacing your chain, both will wear out prematurely.

Check for Wear in the Sprockets

So, how can you tell if your sprockets need replacement? Sprockets have three really obvious clues to tell you it’s time for a change. You should replace your sprocket:

1. If your sprocket is bent or warped.
2. If some of the teeth are broken off.
3. If the tips of the teeth look sharp and come to a point.
4. If the teeth are more curved in one direction, causing a wave like shape.

The teeth of a good sprocket should be evenly shaped, with equal space in between each tooth, and should have a flat spot at the tip, not a point. In the image below, notice how the worn sprocket teeth have a wave-like shape to them.

It would be more accurate to say it’s gaining unwanted flexibility, but you don’t need to get technical as long as you understand why a ‘stretched’ chain is bad and how to spot it. When your chain is new you should measure the distance between 100 links. Write it down and whenever you take the chain off to clean it measure again. When you can only fit 99 links in the same space you need to change out your chain and sprockets.

New chains can often be purchased in kits that include both sprockets and you can often upgrade to a better quality chain than the original OEM chain/sprocket set.

If you purchase your chain and sprocket set on Amazon, like this Driven Racing Gold RK 520MAXX set, be sure you are purchasing the correct size for your year, make, and model of motorcycle.

Proper Chain Maintenance

Keeping your chain clean, properly lubed, and adjusted will extend the life of a chain by thousands of miles. It’s good practice to quickly wipe down your chain after a long day of riding, (more than 100 miles) then give it a quick spray of chain lube.

In general, you want to lube after riding while the chain is still warm. This gives the lubricant time to set into every crevice and lets any excess fluid evaporation happen before your next ride.

You will want to do a thorough cleaning of the chain and sprockets every 500 to 600 miles, or when it just looks nasty and dirty, even if you haven’t ridden that far.

Additionally, you should always wipe down and lube your chain after riding in the rain. Don’t let it sit in the garage wet, as rust will start forming before you know it.

For a complete walk-through and video on how to properly clean and lube your chain, check out this post: Can I Use WD-40 on My Motorcycle Chain?

How to Replace the Chain and Sprockets

Changing out your own chain and sprockets is a fairly easy job, but there are a few things about it that can be tricky and require some specialty tools and maybe help from a friend.

If you’re new to motorcycles, or if you usually take it to the shop, you’ll find that doing the maintenance yourself is incredibly satisfying. Not to mention, you never know when you’re going to need DIY skills.

Below is a list of tools needed, with links on where you can get them.

• Rear Wheel Stand like this PitBull Stand, or put your bike on its center stand
• A Motorcycle Chain Breaker set
• Spare Cotter Pins if your rear axle requires them
• Socket that fits your front sprocket nut
• Impact wrench, or, if you don’t have an impact wrench, get a breaker bar for the socket and an friend to help with this step.
• Motorcycle chain lube or chain wax, whichever you prefer – Like this stuff
• A piece of wood that fits through the rear wheel
• Having your phone camera on hand helps when you need to note exact positions.

Below is a very quick and simple walkthrough of the steps. If it’s your first time, keep your service manual on hand in case you need a quick reference.

1. Set your bike up on a paddock stand or it’s center stand. This will allow you to remove the back wheel.
2. You’ll need to remove the front sprocket cover. If your gear lever needs to be moved then do this and make sure you know where the position of the splined boss that bolts to the shaft is. If you have trouble with remembering these details use a cell phone camera or another digital camera snap a fast shot for later reference.
3. Remove the nut, which is either a tabbed locking washer or self-locking. If it is tabbed you’ll need to use a punch and hammer or screwdriver to push the tab back.
4. A piece of wood inserted through the back wheel will keep the wheel from rotating. You can wrap it in a soft cloth and make sure it rests against the rear swingarm. If you have a helper, you won’t have to use the wood to keep the wheel from rotating. Instead, have them press on the rear break while you remove the front sprocket nut.
5. Use an impact wrench or breaker bar to remove the nut on your front sprocket but leave the sprocket in place for now.
6. Take off the back wheel. Note: when you lay the wheel on the floor, place it on top of two pieces of wood to keep the brake disk off the ground. This well prevent accidental bending of the brake disk.
7. Undo and remove rear sprocket nuts and the sprocket.
8. Replace rear sprocket.
9. Replace the front sprocket and wrap the OLD chain around it.
10. Loosen the chain adjusters at the swing arms.
11. Refit the wheel and old chain without tightening your spindle nut.
12. Using the chain breaker tool, split the old chain now, but do not remove it from the bike yet. Instead, connect it to one end of the new chain.
13. Use the old chain to pull the new one around your new sprockets and then dispose of the old chain.
14. Connect the new chain with your riveting tool. This is part of your chain breaker tool.
15. Place the front sprocket nut back on and tighten it with the wood back in place on the rear wheel, or with your partner pressing the rear break. Tighten the nut to the required torque settings for your motorcycle.
16. Finally, adjust the tension on the chain and tighten down the rear axle.

Your final steps include a quick inspection to make sure you didn’t miss anything. Re-install the front sprocket cover and chain cover. Take the motorcycle out for a short, slow test drive and inspect the chain once again to make sure everything is working properly.

To wrap it up, keep in mind that proper maintenance of your motorcycle chain will make it last a long time, and means your motorcycle will run smoother and be safer. If you’re interested in reading more articles about motorcycle maintenance you might want to check out our article How Often Should Motorcycle Brake Fluid be Changed?

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It can be very frustrating to gear up and pull out your motorcycle for the first ride of the season, only to find that you’re bike won’t run unless the choke is fully on.

It seemed to be running fine last summer, right? Problems like this don’t just happen when your motorcycle has been sitting for a while either. They can also happen quite suddenly.

So, why does a motorcycle only run with the choke on? It means your motorcycle is not getting enough fuel, and this can be caused by dirty or clogged pilot jets, clogged fuel line, clogged fuel filter, dirty petcock, loss of vacuum in the carburetors, among other carburetor issues.

Narrow Down the Cause

Nine times out of ten the cause is clogged pilot jets. The pilot jets are responsible for providing fuel to the carbs during idle and during the first phase of acceleration, i.e. when you first roll on the throttle. So, if these jets are clogged, even in the slightest, it will prevent fuel from getting into the carbs enough to keep it idling.

Opening the choke, blasts fuel into the carbs to keep it going. But, if you’ve ever had this problem, you know that running on full choke is not feasible. The mixture is much, much too rich, the engine revs much too high, and the bike is almost impossible to ride for any significant distance.

How to Fix It

Let’s start from the simplest solution to the most complicated one. There’s no need to rebuild your carburetors if you don’t have to.

Run Sea Foam Through the System

The first, quick and easy solution (hopefully) is to run Sea Foam engine treatment through the engine to flush out any gunk in the carbs. Sometimes this works if you don’t have a major clog in the jets. Note: if you have a fuel injection system, this is a good way to clean the fuel injectors.

Start by using it as a fuel additive. Fill your tank with the recommended grade fuel for your motorcycle. Add to the tank one ounce of Sea Foam for every gallon of gas in your tank. Ride your motorcycle and allow the additive to work its way through. If this doesn’t work, go to the next step.

The next step is to run the Sea Foam directly into the carburetors. When you do this, be sure to run the bike in a very well ventilated area as the fumes from the burning Sea Foam will be pretty harsh.

• Remove fuel line from the the tank. The one that feeds the carbs.
• Drain the float bowls of any fuel.
• Using a funnel, pour a small amount of Sea Foam into the fuel line allowing the float bowls to fill up again.
• Start your motorcycle and keep pouring about 1/4 to 1/3 can of Sea Foam into the funnel while it runs. Note: you’ll see a lot of white smoke coming from your exhaust. That’s normal.

When your engine burns all the Sea Foam, it will stop. Reattach the fuel line to the tank and let your bike sit for 10 to 15 minutes. Then, start it up normally, and see if it will now run without the choke being wide open. You will have to open the choke to get it running again.

Clean the Carburetors

Did the Sea Foam work? No? Not surprising. Often a clogged pilot jet is too clogged for Sea Foam to be effective. So, to properly fix this issue, you’re looking at a thorough carburetor cleaning involving removal and disassembly of the carbs.

The main task or goal when doing a carb rebuild or cleaning, is to remove the jets and clean each one of them individually using carburetor cleaning and compressed air. You will also clean the inside of the carbs and float bowls, and any inline fuel filters.

I recommend purchasing a carburetor rebuild kit for your specific make and model of motorcycle if you suspect that the jets or needles will be beyond cleaning. These kits run around $50 for a two cylinder engine and $100 for 4 cylinders. It’s a good investment and often means you’ll fix whatever carburetor issues you’re having. Even the ones you didn’t know you have.

Another argument for buying a rebuild kit is, the jets are made of brass, a very soft metal. If you accidentally strip the screw on one of these jets when removing it, you’re screwed, and you’ll need to replace it anyway.

Removal and Dissaembly of Carbs

The procedure for the removal and disassembly of your carburetors is going to depend on the make and model of your motorcycle. This article won’t go into the specific steps for this, but I will share my knowledge on how NOT to screw up the job.

Tip #1 Label Your Hoses

When removing the gas tank, you will need to keep track of what hose goes where when you put it back together. By simply labeling the hoses with some masking tape, you won’t be scratching your head wondering where they go. You can number each hose, and also place a number on the part where the hose attaches. Or, you can use a color-coding system and use a sharpie to mark where the hoses go. However you decide to do it, those labels will be a lifesaver.

Tip #2 Keep Track of Screws, Clamps and Brackets

Before you take something off, take note of where it came from and what screws hold it together. Taking pictures of the process on your cell phone is a great way to do this. Keep all the screws, bolts, and brackets in a container away from work area so that they are not accidentally stepped on, knocked over, or spilled. Using separate small containers for different sections of the bike is very helpful. Again, use the labeling system so you don’t forget where the screws go.

Another trick is to take a thin piece of cardboard or heavy paper and trace out the pattern of the screws on the paper. When you remove a screw from your carbs, stick it through the paper; kind of like a map of where everything goes. This is a perfect trick for those of us who have trouble remembering where that one odd screw is supposed to go.

Also, magnetic parts bowls work great for this kind of job too. You should have one bowl for every carburetor you’re working with so you can keep the jets and screws from getting mixed up.

Tip #3 Organize your Work Area

Once you have the carburetors out of the motorcycle and on your workbench, you will want to keep this area clean and organized. When you start taking the carbs apart, removing little screws, springs and brackets, you will need to keep the parts organized and in order.

Gather only the tools you will need for this detailed work. Limit it to just a couple of screwdrivers, a small wrench, small containers for screws and a small container for cleaning solution. Also, a couple of lint free rags. Lint free is super important. You don’t want to wipe down a part that you just cleaned only to leave a tiny piece of lint inside your carbs.

Lay your carbs and tools on a solid, clean work surface free from cracks or gaps where your screws or jets can fall into. I have an old kitchen cutting mat that I use for jobs like this.

Tip #4 Be Gentle With the Jet Screws

Brass is a very soft metal. Stripping the screw heads is easier than you think. They are also quite small and require a small screwdriver head. So, when you get in there to remove the pilot jet screws, the smallest of the bunch, make sure your screwdriver is properly seated in the groove before you start turning. Turn firmly, while pressing down on the screw. Don’t rush. Once you hear a snap, the seal is broken and the screw should come out with no problems.

Tip #5 Clean Jets with Carburetor Solution and Compressed Air

When cleaning the individual jets, some people will recommend sliding a piece of wire through each hole to clear out gunk. This should be done with extreme caution. You do not want to scratch the inside of the jets or the holes. Remember, brass is soft and it doesn’t take much to scratch it.

The best method for cleaning jets is to soak them in a carburetor cleaning solution, then blow out the jets with compressed air. If you have an air compressor, then you’re all set. But, if you don’t, a can of compressed air will work. Word of caution when using canned air; always hold the can upright when spraying so the chemicals in the can remain in the can where they belong.

Adjusting the Pilot Jets

At this point, let’s assume you have done a proper cleaning or rebuild of the carbs and you’ve successfully put them back together. Don’t put them on the bike just yet. It is super important to make sure the pilot screws are adjusted to your bike’s manufacture specifications. Check your service manual to see how many turns out the screws should be.

When adjusting pilot screws, again, be gentle. Screw them all the way in until you just feel them seat. DO NOT tighten them any further. From there, turn the screws out the recommended number of turns for each carburetor. They may be different, i.e. one carb maybe 2 1/2 turns while the other will be 1 1/2 turns.

Install Carburetors onto the Motorcycle

Once you have all parts reassembled on your carburetors, and your pilot jet screws properly adjusted, then you can install them back onto your motorcycle.

Now you will be glad that you labeled the hoses. Make sure you reattach all the appropriate fuel hoses as well as all the vent hoses, which are equally as important. Make sure the air intake hoses are properly mounted to the mouth of the carbs and that they are properly seated on the air intake box. Leaks in the air intake portion of the system can affect the air to fuel mixture. While you’re at it, make sure the air filter is clean and properly installed.

When installing the gas tank, make sure no hoses are pinched or kinked. Make sure the vent hoses are properly routed down the motorcycle and clear from hot pipes, gears, and the chain.

Once everything is back on the motorcycle and connected again, it’s time to give it a test. Startup the bike with the choke on. Remember, it will take a bit to get the fuel running through the carbs at first. Hopefully, with clean, and properly adjusted jets, your motorcycle will be idling properly without the choke being fully open. Take it out for a test ride.

Other Causes

Vacuum leaks can also cause problems with idle speed and performance. While you have your carbs disassembled, you should inspect the rubber bladder around the main needle for any holes. When assembling your carbs, make sure you do not pinch the edges of the bladder which can cause leaks in the vacuum.

Clogged fuel filters can prevent fuel from flowing freely into the carbs. Check your service manual for the location of any inline fuel filters. Remove them carefully and make sure there is nothing clogging them. If your motorcycle has a gravity fuel delivery system, and a petcock or fuel switch, you should remove the petcock and check the filter at that point. Often, debris from the tank can clog this filter too.

To wrap it up, clean carburetors, fuel lines, and fuel filters will ensure that your motorcycle runs properly. While a carburetor rebuild is somewhat tedious and intricate, it’s definitely something that you tackle do yourself. It takes patience, but, if you don’t rush and if you follow the tips I’ve laid out here, you can get your motorcycle up and running again.