Blog

How Does a Motorcycle Disk Lock Work? (What To Know Before Buying)
Reading Time: 7 minutes
When you’re out on a motorcycle trip, no matter how short or long, the last thing you want is a stolen bike. There are several ways to secure your motorcycle, one of them being the disk lock.

So, How do motorcycle disk locks work? Motorcycle disk locks are small but sturdy locks that attached to your motorcycle’s disk brakes rotor. The U-shaped lock will slip over the disk and the pin will be inserted into a rotor vent hole and locked into place. The lock will prevent the wheel from turning by hitting the brake caliper or wheel forks. But, will a disk lock really keep your bike from being stolen?

No type of motorcycle lock or theft prevention system is a 100% guarantee that your bike will never be stolen. Thieves are smart and tricky. If they really want your bike and they have the resources to snatch it, they will find a way, even if it has a motorcycle lock. But, there are things you can do to make it more difficult, especially for the opportunistic thief who’s looking for an easy score.

What is a Disk Lock?

A motorcycle disk lock is a motorcycle lock that prevents theft by attaching to the wheel of your bike.

All disk locks look very similar. A disk lock is made of heavy, solid steel and generally have a long, thin opening that will slide onto your brake disk with just a little wiggle room. Disk locks will include some kind of disc lock that opens and closes with a key. This lock moves the pin in and out allowing you to install the disk lock and remove the disk lock from the brake disk rotor. To install a disk lock on the bike:
- Unlock the pin
- Slide the lock onto the brake disk
- Align the pin with one of the vent holes
- Turn the key to insert the pin through the hole and secure the lock
Disk locks usually come with a brightly colored coiled plastic cable. This is really important for all motorcycle locks. This cable is not used as part of theft prevention. It’s used to remind you to remove the lock before trying to ride away. Yep. Enough people do it to necessitate this feature on motorcycle locks. You’ll string the cable from the disk lock to your handle bars, or some place where you’re sure to see it.

Personally, I’ve been lucky so far. I haven’t used the reminder cable in a long time, and, I’m not even sure where it went. But, there have been a couple of times where I’ve sat on the bike, ready to start it up, and I suddenly remember to remove the disc lock. Maybe I should find that cable and keep it with me.

Anywho, I think the pros of motorcycle locks outweigh any chance you might ride away with it on.

Will a Disk Lock Prevent Theft?

A disk lock will only prevent roll theft. A disk lock creates no more than a deterrent for most criminals, but there’s nothing preventing a few guys with a van from lifting your bike away. Actually, the van method is a lot less common than you might think.

Look at it this way, if a bear is chasing you, you don’t have to run faster than the bear, you only have to run faster than your friend. (That’s awful, I know). If your bike is parked along side another bike, your’s has the disk lock and the other doesn’t, which bike do you think the thief is going to take?

He’s going to take the path of least resistance. And seeing a brightly color disc lock on your wheel and a bright reminder cable on your handle bars, might be just enough to make him move to the next opportunity.

Nonetheless, there are a few things you can do to make it harder for them.

Best Ways to Use a Disk Lock

If you are able, always use the disc lock on your rear wheel. Why? Because a bike thief can quickly remove a front wheel, replace it, and ride away, leaving you with your disk lock and your wheel, but no bike. Rear wheels take more time to remove, so, this will give you a little bit of an edge if the thief is in a hurry. And it’s safe to say most are.

For some bikes, typically scooters or older bikes with rear drum brakes, you should probably find an additional form of security, such as a chain and padlock, rather than relying solely on the disk lock.

Types of Disk Locks

There are two common types of disk locks; the kind described above, which is good for only one type of application; on the brake rotor. Or, you can get a padlock style that can be used as a disk lock, or used with a heavy duty chain to lock your bike to a secure object. The padlock style may give you more options on how it can be installed on your rear brake disk depending on the type of bike you have.

The padlock style can also be used in conjunction with a heavy duty chain enabling you to disc lock your bike to an object like a pole, or a strong hold anchor. This creates the best motorcycle disc locks system.

Disk locks come with different lock styles; tubular or a basic, straight key. It’s best to avoid a tubular disc lock as they can be easily picked with a ball point pen. Ne’er do wells have figured it out. Although manufacturers have made improvements to the tubular lock, a cheap brand may be easy to pick.

So, it’s better to use a disc lock that is not tubular, rather, one that used a straight key. A key retaining lock is one in which the key will remain in the lock and can only be removed once the disc lock is secure.

Disk locks come in a lot of brands and some can be made of less expensive materials. It’s best to pick a disc lock (no pun intended) that is made of hardened steel. If a magnet sticks to it, then it’s steel. Other materials may seem good, they are heavy, but, if the metal is soft it is easy to cut or saw through. A good quality disc lock made of hardened steel will cost you more, but it’s worth it.

Disk Locks with Alarms

An added level of security is a disk lock with an alarm.

A Motorcycle disk lock with an alarm function just like any other disk lock, but comes with the added feature of a motion sensitive alarm. A motorcycle disk lock with an alarm takes only a small amount of motion to trigger the alarm which will give out a few short warning beeps the first time it is disturbed.

If it’s moved again within 5 or 10 seconds, a high pitched alarm will sound at about 90 to 100 decibels. Hopefully, that’s loud enough the cause a thief to give up. The alarm will ring for 10 seconds, then stop.

But, we all know how annoying car alarms can be. They go off in the middle of the night and go on and on and on, and everyone ignores it. So, is a disk lock with an alarm effective? Again, it’s not a guarantee, but any extra deterrent helps. For example, if you’re staying in a hotel and your bike is parked near your room, you can have an ear out for your alarm.

Wrap up

So, to summarize, a motorcycle disk lock is a decent deterrent that will help prevent roll-away theft of your motorcycle. The best motorcycle disc locks are made of hardened steel with a quality lock and key. Consider the added protection of a disk lock with an alarm and install it on the rear wheel, these disk locks really work to fend off thieves.

And finally, don’t forget to use the reminder cable so you don’t try to ride away with the disc lock still attached. You. Will. Fall. Over. A reminder cable will save you and your bike!

I hope this quick article helps you decide whether or not a disk lock is a good option for you. And, if you’re after another level of protection, check out what a grip lock can do to help protect your bike a little more. A grip lock is a handlebar lock for your motorcycle.
09/28/2018
How Long to Charge a Motorcycle Battery?
Reading Time: 9 minutes
How Long to Charge a Motorcycle Battery?

When a motorcycle battery is not in use, it will lose its charge leaving you with a dead battery if you don’t maintain it properly. If you find yourself with a dead battery, you can get it back to operating condition by connecting it to a charger. Then wait. But how long does it take to charge a motorcycle battery?

A motorcycle battery will take between 4 hours and up to 24 hours. The speed at which your battery charges depends on the amperage of your charger and the condition of your motorcycle’s battery.

A brand new lead-acid, 12-volt battery under a constant-current charge, will take 5 – 8 hours to charge up to 70%. The remaining 30% will require another 7 – 10 hours before it is ready to install on the motorcycle. A new, sealed, pre-charged battery is generally charged to 80% when you buy it and should be connected to a charger for 4 – 6 hours to reach maximum charge before putting it in the bike.

Now, you might be thinking, that’s great for a new battery, but how long does it take to charge a motorcycle battery that’s already on my bike? That depends on several factors. So, let’s dig into the basics of motorcycle batteries, how to charge them and how to keep them charged.

Common Types of Motorcycle Batteries

In keeping with the main topic of this article, I don’t want to get too deep into the nitty-gritty of battery technology. But, I would like to mention a couple of basics.

Lead Acid Motorcycle Batteries

These are probably the most common type of motorcycle batteries. They consist of Lead plates in each cell and are filled with a mixture of sulfuric acid and water. The chemical reaction between the two creates an electrical charge. When you buy a new lead-acid battery you will have to fill each cell with acid that is provided when you purchase the kit. Don’t worry, it’s not as hard as it sounds. You will then connect your trickle charger to your battery and let it sit for about 24 hours to get a full charge. Install it into your bike and you’re ready to go.

Lead acid batteries require regular maintenance, and this is something that a lot of people neglect. The fluid in the battery cells will evaporate and the cells can dry out. This is the quickest way to destroy the battery. So, it is smart to include a battery check along with your regular maintenance routine. If a battery cell is running low of fluid, top it off with distilled water. DISTILLED water. Not beer.

One important thing to note: this type of battery must be installed upright or you risk leaking battery acid all over your bike. And that would be a disaster.

Gel Cell and AGM Motorycle Batteries

These are both a type of sealed lead-acid motorcycle batteries. When you buy one new, it will already be charge about 80%. These are by far the easiest battery to own. They require no maintenance other than keeping them connected to the tender when the bike is parked. Because they are sealed, you don’t have to install them upright, giving you more options for placement on a bike. One tip, however, is to connect a new battery to a float charger for at least 4 to 6 hours to bring it up to 100% before you install it on the bike.

Lithium Ion Motorcycle Batteries

The Lithium-Ion motorcycle battery is newer technology. It is incredibly lightweight, 1/3 the weight of a lead-acid battery, and requires very little maintenance. They tend to last longer than other motorcycle batteries when properly maintained but this does not mean the battery capacity is necessarily higher. But, there are a couple of things to be aware of when considering a Lithium-Ion battery, such as its higher price tag.

Lithium-Ion motorcycle batteries are known for giving you much more power in a cold start, making them perfect for larger bikes or for starting your bike in freezing weather. However, you need to follow a specific procedure when doing a cold start.
- Crank the engine for about 5 seconds. you’ll notice it cranks very slow and won’t start.
- Let the bike sit with the power on for 30 seconds. This will warm up the battery.
- Now, crank it again and your bike should start right up.
One word of warning; with a lead-acid battery, if you accidentally leave your headlight on and drain the battery, you’ll still have the ability to recharge it. However, if you do that with a lithium-ion battery, you will cause permanent damage to the battery. It will be toast.

What is a Trickle Charger?

A Trickle charger is another name for a battery tender. Trickle chargers are attached to your battery and plugged into a wall outlet. When the bike is turned off, the charge in the battery slowly diminishes.

The charger will keep drawing power from the wall to recharge it until you start up your bike again. This means that when you go out for a ride, you usually have at least some charge left in the battery.

Once you get home, just connect your charger and let it do its thing while you sit back and relax.

You can leave a trickle charge hooked up to your motorcycle overnight or for months on end during winter. You can buy these trickle chargers at any local automotive store or order one online. Every motorcyclist should own a trickle charge device.

What is a Smart Charger?

A smart charger is a type of trickle charger that includes some intelligence. This means it will stop charging your battery once it has reached full capacity, so you don’t have to worry about overcharging. There are both automatic and manual models available on the market today.

I would suggest you going out and purchasing a smart charger version of a trickle charger.

How to Keep Your Battery Charged

To get the most life from your battery you need to keep it optimally charged with a smart charger and not allow it to get too drained. There are some easy steps you can take to keep your battery ready to go.

Keep it on a charger

A Battery Tender should be a staple in any motorcycle owner’s garage. See the current prices on Amazon. It is the easiest way to keep your battery fully charge in between rides and during the off season. The Battery Tender is a trickle charger that feeds a consistent current flowing to your battery and will switch to float mode once your battery reaches 12 volts.

Battery Tender isn’t the only brand of charger on the market. There are plenty to choose from. You can charge your motorcycle battery with any charger, but, it is highly recommended that you use a charger that has an automatic mode that will switch off or switch to float mode before charging it higher than 2 amps. An unattended battery that’s allowed to charge more than 2 amps will bulge or even explode, spewing battery acid everywhere. Yikes!

Check for Parasitic Draw

Do a parasitic draw test. The purpose of this test is to see if there is a leak, so to speak, where your battery power is being drained. Some small amount of battery drain is normal, say, if you have a clock or alarm on your bike that is always on. But these leaks can also be caused by short or poor ground wiring. Any drain more than an amp should be investigated and repaired. Checking for a parasitic draw is simple.
1. Check your bike’s manual to see how to access your battery
2. Disconnect the negative cable from the terminal
3. Take a basic voltage/Ohm meter and set it to amps
4. Place one meter lead on the negative terminal, and the other meter lead on the negative cable.
5. The meter should read Zero amps.
If it reads anything more than zero, and you don’t have any accessories on your bike to draw that power, then you need to investigate further and correct the issue. Before you know it, your battery will be drained one amp at a time.

Keep your Electronics to a Minimum

Riding with a lot of electronic accessories can stress a battery and drain it faster than normal. If you have a lot of accessories such as a stereo, GPS, or heated gear, be sure to purchase a battery that is designed to accommodate all those gadgets. And, be aware that your battery will be stressed during long rides. Plan accordingly if you’re going on a multi-day ride and bring a Battery Tender Jr. with you. You will need an electrical outlet to plug it in, so, that may take a little imagination depending on where your staying.

When Should You Replace Your Battery?

It’s a good idea to include a battery check to your usual maintenance routine. Every time you change your oil, why not check your battery charge. Physically inspect your battery for leaks, bulging, corroded terminals and connectors.

Check the voltage. Connect a multimeter to the positive and negative terminals and set the meter to volts. Your meter should read between 12.7 volts to 13.2 volts. This is a fully charged battery. If it reads 12 volts or less, its time to replace it.

Check the voltage output under load. To do this test, you’ll connect the meter as described above. Startup the motorcycle and rev the engine up to 3,000 rpm and check the meter. A good battery will read about 9 to 11 volts consistently for 30 seconds. Anything less, and it’s probably time to replace it.

In summary, motorcycle batteries are close to maintenance-free, but they cannot be ignored completely. Be diligent about keeping your motorcycle connected to a trickle charger like the Battery Tender. Keep your lead acid battery topped off with distilled water. Incorporate a physical battery check and a voltage check into your regular maintenance routine.

These good habits will keep your bike ready to pack up and ride at a moment’s notice and will prevent you from getting stranded in a motel parking lot with no power.

How long to charge a motorcycle battery by riding?

Your motorcycle battery will be fully charged in 30 minutes from being ridden.

That’s right, you can charge a motorcycle but just letting it run! Your motorcycle has a component called an alternator, this is the component that recharges your battery when you are riding. An alternator is actually part of your engine that converts combustion energy into electricity which is stored in the motorcycle’s battery.

Motorcycle and Scooter Batteries

When it comes to motorcycles and scooter batteries, there is very little difference in how long it takes to charge them. The main difference is that scooter batteries are typically long-lived and low maintenance, whereas motorcycle batteries are designed to deliver high starting currents.

Another difference between the two batteries is that motorcycle batteries have exposed posts so you can attach jumper cables directly to the battery terminals. Whilst Scooters have clamps built in so they cannot be attached using jumper cables.

Best Motorcycle Battery Chargers

Noco GB40 1000amp Genius Boost
- Higher price range
- More available power 1000 peak amps means more starts per charge.
- 2.4 pounds
- Dimensions: 8.3 x 4.1 x 4.6 inches
- See the latest price on Amazon
GooLoo 800amp
- Midrange price.
- 800 peak amps, 700 general amps
- 1.74 pounds
- Dimensions: 7.3 x 3.7 x 1.6 inches
- See the latest price on Amazon
DBPower 500Amp
- Lower price range.
- 500 peak amps, general output will be less
- 1.32 pounds
- Dimensions: 9.7 x 3.9 x 4.9 inches
To see our full & up-to-date most recommended motorcycle battery charges click here.
09/26/2018
Kevlar Pants Vs. Leather Pants: Do Kevlar Jeans Actually Protect You?

Reading Time: 8 minutes
We all want to stay safe when we ride, but comfort and style are also valid concerns when it comes to motorcycle gear. Sometimes wearing full leathers is just not practical, especially if you’re commuting. Many riders are forced to make a choice between safety and work attire. I mean, you can’t show up for work in racing leathers when the dress code is business casual. That’s where Kevlar comes in.

The best motorcycle jeans have hip armour, knee armor, mesh lining, aramid fibres and have triple stitching. It is the ultimate protective gear for motorcycle riding. Other jeans that are slim fit do not offer impact protection and are not fully lined. A regular pair of aramid fibre motorcycle wear of the correct size is best suited for riders.

Can Kevlar pants protect you as well as leather riding pants can?

Kevlar pants do not perform as well as leather. Leather provides superior protection against abrasion. That’s why professional motorcycle racers wear them. But, Kevlar riding jeans can still be a viable option for riders looking for style, comfort, and protection.

Kevlar is a product developed and patented in 1966 by a Polish-American chemist named Stephanie Kwolek while working for DuPont. Yes, a woman (girls rule). The scientific name for the material is Poly-paraphenylene terephthalamide, and was branded Kevlar.

It was originally developed to make a better, stronger tire, and, while it is used in tires to this day, it also has many, other applications. Kevlar can even be found on your iPhone. Its most commonly known use is in body armor. Kevlar has been protecting our law enforcement and military personnel for many years.

Kevlar is not the only protective fiber out there, but it has been wildly adopted into motorcycle gear. Technically Kevlar is an aramid fiber and there are several other types in existence; para-aramids and meta-aramids. Brands such as Norex or Technora manufacture meta-aramid fabrics which are not quite as strong, durable, or lightweight as Kevlar which is a para-aramid fabric.

It’s important to know this distinction because some jean manufacturers will use Norex, providing a cheaper alternative to the, sometimes expensive Kevlar lined jeans.

Because of its anti-abrasion properties and its lightweight, it makes sense that Kevlar would be used in protective clothing such as riding pants. Kevlar jeans have gained popularity over the years as riders have been looking for alternatives to bulky riding pants, or riding with no extra protection other than a thin layer of denim.

Riders want the style and comfort of motorcycle riding jeans, but they also want protective jeans.

Abrasion Protection

Hands down, leather provides the best protection against abrasion. Good leathers can often still be worn and effective even after a crash or slide on the pavement. They are incredibly durable and will hold up for years and years.

Kevlar jeans, still provide good protection against abrasion, once or twice depending on the severity of the slide. Of course, single layer jeans will never be as good as multilayered for a slide. They are incredibly heat resistant and will not melt under the friction of a slide.

There have been a lot of unscientific tests on kevlar jeans to see how they hold up to being dragged on the pavement. You can conclude from some of these tests that Kevlar jeans will not guarantee 100% protection against road rash. They do have a breaking point where they will eventually wear through, but, they are much more abrasion resistant than plain denim.

Impact Protection

A simple pair of motorcycle riding jeans, or leather pants for that matter, is not sufficient impact protection. All good riding pants will include armor and the knees and hips, the most common impact points. Good riding jeans will include a set of knee and hip armor with pockets to place them in. What’s great about this is that you can remove the armor and leave it in your gear bag while you’re not riding.

Different manufacturers will have different style armor pockets, some requiring you to drop your drawers to remove them. Others may provide an outside zipper at the knee allowing you to remove the armor quickly and easily right there at your bike. No ducking behind a bush is needed.

So, compared to leather riding pants, Kevlar motorcycle riding jeans can provide just as much impact protection on your knees and hips depending on the durability of the armor plates used. One thing to consider when purchasing jeans, is whether or not they come with the armor or if you have to provide your own. Jeans that come with armor are more likely to have pockets that are custom sewn to fit the shape of the armor, preventing it from moving around. Other brands may or may not ensure a good fit.

Rain protection

Both leather and Kevlar jeans are going to get wet in the rain, however, leather will offer protection depending on how heavy the rain is. On the downside, leather takes a long, long time to dry and if you find yourself soaked, there’s no guarantee your leathers will be 100% dry by the next morning, even if you hang them out overnight. Kevlar jeans, however, can be thrown in the dryer and will be ready to go the next day.

So, in short, neither of them can be considered protection against rain, and neither of them will be comfortable once they are soaked. But, at least Kevlar jeans will be ready to go when you need them. Holy heck, you could even stop at a laundry mat and toss them in the dryer if push comes to shove.

Style

Motorcycle riding jeans are getting more and more popular with motorcycle enthusiasts and clothing manufacturers are listening. Riding jeans come in a number of styles from grunge to work appropriate chinos. You can find them in styles that are similar to Levi’s 501’s or 550’s.

They will come in a variety of colors like black denim, dark blue, acid wash, or stone wash. Some include features such as a strip of reflective material across the back, or elastic gathers above the knees to allow more flexibility when you ride. If you need to dress up a little more, you’ll find Kevlar lined pants that look like Khaki’s making them perfect when commuting to work.

Women‘s styles are becoming more popular as well. It’s nice that us women have the option to choose something that looks stylish but without compromising safety. While other riding pants are suitable for all riding, it’s nice to be able to jump off the bike and walk into a restaurant without having to strip off your gear or run to the ladies’ room for a quick change.

Motorcycle Pants vs Leather

When comparing motorcycle riding jeans, typically made of denim with leather motorcycle pants, the first thing you notice is weight. The leather motorcycle pants are significantly heavier than the motorcycle riding jeans. To combat this, manufacturers have begun using Kevlar in denim to provide abrasion resistance while keeping the weight down.

Kevlar seems like a good choice for protecting against abrasions because it can stretch with your body which should increase comfort and performance. But, Kevlar is also sensitive to heat & still does not perform as well as leather for pants.

Kevlar Lining for Jeans

Many motorcycle jeans actually include a Kevlar lining around the knees and hips to provide some abrasion resistance. While this may help, for true protection you still need a layer of leather over the Kevlar. Also, if you do go down on the road with just a Kevlar lining, you’ll notice that it will damage rather easily as opposed to real motorcycle armor. When looking for a pair of kevlar lined pants remember to see if they are single layer jeans or multi-layered.

Buying Kevlar Jeans

With so many styles of riding jeans on the market, it’s hard to choose which one will be best for you. Look for features that you think you might like or that works for your situation. Do you prefer to have armor that is easy to install and remove, look for zippered knee pockets?

Do you want jeans that don’t ride up your boot when you sit on the bike or a waist that doesn’t slide down your butt exposing crack like Joe the plumber? Then, you could consider jeans with expandable elastic above the knees and at the waistband. Do you commute to work in a business office that requires you to step it up a knotch from casual Fridays? Then choose a Kevlar lined chino in black or khaki.

There are plenty of choices.

As mentioned earlier, we are aware that there are a lot of companies making motorcycle riding jeans, but they don’t include Kevlar. Instead, they will manufacture these jeans with heavy denim and reinforced knees. This is not the same a Kevlar or other aramid fabrics and will not provide you with the protection Kevlar will give. So, be sure to check the materials listed.

So, we’ve answered the original question; Are Kevlar jeans as good as leather? As far as protection goes, no, they are not. However, Kevlar jeans are a great option if you’re looking for more style and more protection than a basic pair of denim jeans.

09/25/2018
Motorcycle Fatigue: How to Prevent Fatigue When Riding a Motorcycle
Reading Time: 10 minutes
You may someday find yourself riding home from an incredible weekend motorcycle trip, trying your best to make it home in one day when in reality you should have given yourself an extra day to make the trip. Suddenly fatigue sets in.

You’re tired, sluggish, sleepy. I’m guilty of it, and the last few hours of those kinds of days are torture as fatigue sets it. Not only is it uncomfortable, but it is also dangerous! Getting adequate sleep is so important to fighting fatigue and reducing motorcycle accidents.

So, how can you prevent fatigue when riding a motorcycle? Fatigue, one of the top 5 causes of fatal motorcycle accidents, can be caused by lack of sleep, dehydration, extreme hot or cold weather, eating the wrong foods or drinking sugary or alcoholic beverages.

These, and a combination of other factors can cause a rider to become sluggish and sleepy, creating a very unpleasant and unsafe riding experience.

In this article, we’ll talk about how you can recognize fatigue and give you some tips on how to prevent it.

The first thing you need to know is how to recognize if you’re getting dangerously tired on the bike. Falling asleep in the saddle doesn’t just suddenly happen as if someone passes out and falls over. Nope, it happens gradually.

In fact, our brains have an amazing way of shutting down when it’s sleep-deprived, while our bodies just, kind of, keep doing their thing. So, you need to know how to recognize the signs BEFORE you are in a dangerous situation.

The National Sleep Foundation has put out a set of warning signs for you to look for, that will tell you that maybe it’s time to get off the road and take a break or get some sleep.

Look for these warning signs of motorcycle fatigue:
- Difficulty focusing – blurry vision, frequent blinking, or that feeling of heavy eyelids
- Daydreaming – your mind wanders and your thoughts are disconnected
- Trouble remembering the last few miles driven – you miss an exit or miss a traffic sign
- Yawning repeatedly or you feel like rubbing your eyes
- Slouching – riding with bad body position or having a hard time keeping your head up
- Drifting from your lane, tailgating, or hitting a shoulder rumble strip
- Feeling restless and irritable
If you’re feeling any of those symptoms, or a combination of them, then you need to make a decision on whether to stop for the night, stop for a power nap, or keep on going and risk getting into what could be a serious accident.

Below you’ll find some great tips for preventing fatigue while riding your motorcycle. It starts long before you put on your gear and get on the bike. In fact, it starts at least 8 hours before you start your ride.

7 Ways to Beat Motorcycle Fatigue
1. Get a good night’s sleep
2. Hydrate
3. Eat Right
4. Take Breaks
5. Wear Ear Plugs
6. Avoid the Highway
7. Limit the miles you ride in a day
1. Get a good night’s sleep

The importance of a good night’s sleep cannot be underestimated. Sleep studies have shown that driving while drowsy is similar to driving while under the influence of alcohol or drugs.

Two consecutive nights with 6 hours of sleep or less, can reduce a driver’s ability to stay focused and reduce reaction time. Most of the sleep studies involve cars, so it’s fair to assume that the effects are amplified when riding a motorcycle. To fall asleep early on a multi-day ride is a habit worth keeping.

Because riding requires a higher level of concentration and requires you to stay even more alert than the average cager, sleep is a must. I know it’s tempting to stay up late and hang out with your riding buddies and talk about the day’s ride, but if you hit the sack early, you’ll enjoy tomorrow’s ride that much more. So, lights out at 11 PM guys!

2. Hydrate

This is another tip that starts before you get on the bike. Don’t over-do it on the alcohol the night before. You don’t want to start your morning with a hang over and already dehydrated. So, enjoy yourself, but don’t over-indulge. While on your ride there are certain drinks you should avoid. Alcohol is one of them.

And, while I’ve been riding with people who may have a beer during lunch, I have a hard and fast rule for myself: save the beer for after you park it for the day. It’s also a good idea to avoid sugary drinks like soda and energy drinks as these can give you an initial boost, but cause your energy level to plummet later in the day.

A sugar low doesn’t happen when you don’t have enough sugar, it happens from having too much sugar and then feeling the consequences afterward.

To drink alcohol and not go to sleep at a reasonable hour and then expect to be doing something as physically demanding as riding a motorcycle for hours on end is just asking for trouble and will ultimately lead to a crash.

So, what should you drink?

Water. Just drink plain old water. This seems like a pretty simple concept but you would be surprised at how many people forget to drink water. The amount of water you drink is going to depend on things like the outside temperature, how in shape you are, and the humidity.

There are a lot of opinions on how much water you should drink in a day, but the most commonly agreed-upon amount is about 2 liters or a half-gallon per day. When you’re active, as you are when you’re riding, you will need to drink more. And even more, if it is hot or humid. I personally like to carry my 2 liters CamelBak when I ride. That makes it simple to drink often. No need to remove the helmet.

One way to make sure you’re drinking enough is to make sure you are urinating throughout the day. If you’re drinking water, but you’re not peeing, then you’re not drinking enough. Also, if it’s a really hot day, or if it’s humid, chug down an electrolyte drink to replenish the sodium and potassium that you’re sweating away.

3. Eat Right

Before you ride, eat a good breakfast; one that will keep your energy level consistent for the morning. No, that doesn’t mean donuts and coffee.

It means a good balance of proteins, carbs, fruit…and coffee. Also, don’t chow down on a huge lunch only to find yourself in a food coma an hour later. And here’s a big one, avoid carbohydrate-heavy foods. carb-loading is really good at putting you in a food coma.

Eat light, and snack often. Carry some healthy snacks with you to keep your energy level up. Trail mix, a protein bar, or even a Snickers if you have a sweet tooth. The trick is to eat small portions more often, rather than eating one big meal.

4. Take Breaks

Sitting on the motorcycle for long periods of time can cause you to zone out and get sleepy. So, it’s a good idea to plan plenty of breaks throughout your ride. A good rule of thumb is to take a break every 1 to 2 hours. While you’re on that break, walk around, stretch, get the blood flowing again.

Also, if you can stand up on your motorcycle while riding, this is a great way to get the blood flowing in between breaks.

Taking breaks is a lifesaver when fighting fatigue. These can include regular toilet breaks or light exercise breaks, especially on extended rides when you become a more vulnerable rider

5. Wear Ear Plugs

Wearing earplugs will not only save your hearing but, reduce the stress of listening to the loud wind and engine noise will reduce fatigue and help keep you alert and awake. Some might speculate that earplugs will make you less safe. How can you hear your engine, or a siren, or horn?

Actually, when you reduce those louder noises, your ears are able to concentrate more on the subtle noises, like sirens or horns. Wear earplugs to block out wind noise and loud pipes and keep you mentally alert.

Earplugs have evolved quite a bit over the years. You could still use the basic, disposable foam earplugs that you squish between your finger then cram them in your ear canal.

Those work just fine, they are easy to find and they cost next to nothing. But you can also use acoustic earplugs or musician’s earplugs. These will filter out the loudest noises, but let the more subtle noises in. These are great if you’re using an intercom system or listening to music through helmet speakers.

6. Avoid the Highway

Take a more interesting route instead of slabbing it on a long, boring freeway full of other sleepy drivers and big trucks. Riding on more technical roads will keep your senses alive and your mind and body alert. Besides, this is why we ride.

We want to see the off-beaten path, that beautiful winding canyon road. But, if you can’t avoid a ride on the highway, make sure you’re not stuck behind the same car for a long time. Don’t tailgate. Don’t zone out. Go ahead and hit the throttle and pass up those slow drivers and give yourself a little boost of adrenaline at the same time.

The worse thing you can do to yourself is to put yourself in a situation where if you fall asleep even for a second you’ll have a crash!

Another little tip is to avoid cruise control on highways. I know cruise control is a luxury most of us don’t have, but even if you do, avoid it when you haven’t had adequate sleep. Driver aids like cruise control might seem nice but are the worst for losing concentration.

This leads us to the last tip:

7. Limit the miles you ride in a day

This is great advice especially if you are riding twisty roads or technical terrain. 10 miles of dirt roads will wear you out a lot faster than 10 miles of smooth pavement. And 10 miles of mountain switchbacks that require a lot of concentration will also take their toll. Get adequate rest on days that are mentally more taxing.

So, plan your route ahead of timekeeping that in mind. If you’re riding with a group, be prepared to shorten your route based on the speed and ability of the slowest rider in your group.

Lastly, if you need to be home from your trip in time to clock in for work the next morning, consider reducing your miles for that last day. Plan your route accordingly. If you’re on a longer trip, consider adding a rest day to the end of your ride.

This will give you some wiggle room. If you find yourself getting dangerously fatigued, you have the option of stopping for the night. To fall asleep while riding is the scariest feeling out there.

Summery

I hope you found these tips helpful. Remember to practice these tips, stay awake and stay safe. Getting adequate rest on a long ride is better protection than a full-face helmet (in my opinion). wind noise, physical fatigue, and even what you eat can cause slower body motor skills.
09/24/2018