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  • Overcoming Fears of Solo Motorcycle Travel

    Overcoming Fears of Solo Motorcycle Travel

    Reading Time: 17 minutes

    One of the reasons I started this website is to share my experience with planning and venturing out on my dream motorcycle trip; a 6 month solo tour of the US and parts of Canada. In planning this trip I find that I am forced to confront barriers that may get in my way, one of them being fear. The shorter motorcycle camping trips I’ve taken in the past have allowed me to work on overcoming much of my fear of traveling and camping alone, but I know there are more concerns with being alone on my motorcycle for months at a time.

    So, how do we overcome our fears of solo motorcycle travel? The best way to get over your fear is to face it and do the thing you’re afraid of doing. Start with small steps and slowly expose yourself to the activity until you become familiar with the things that caused you fear and learn techniques for dealing with unfounded fear and anxiety.

    Fear is “an unpleasant emotion caused by the belief that someone or something is dangerous, likely to cause pain, or a threat.”

    Did you catch that? The belief. You can experience fear even if there is no danger or threat at all. If this is the case, why do we let fear get in the way of allowing us to experience life to the fullest? When on a long motorcycle trip there are a number of fears that may prevent someone from enjoying it. And it’s not just about the fear of camping alone. It can also be the fear of riding a motorcycle alone, staying in a hotel alone, especially for women. It could be the fear of a breakdown in the middle of nowhere or the fear of encountering unfriendly, dangerous people or wildlife.

    For this article I tried to think of all the things I am afraid of regarding this trip, and find ways that I can deal with them and conquer them. Also, even though everything in this article applies to both men and women, I am going to address some of it from a woman’s point of view.

    Is Fear Natural?

    Fear occurs at different levels and in many different forms. The level of fear one person feels is directly related to the experiences they’ve had during their lifetime. Kids who have been bitten by a dog may have a fear of all dogs for the rest of their lives. On the most basic level, fear is a primitive emotion necessary for our survival. That primal fear that has been ingrained in our brains since the dawn of mankind is the emotion that causes us to spring into action when faced with a threat. It helps us make split second decisions to fight, flight or freeze.

    When we are being attacked, either by another human, an animal, or a force of nature such as fire, flood or earthquake, our survival instincts, driven by fear, will aid us in taking drastic action to remove ourselves from a dangerous situation. This is when fear is helpful and necessary. This is when fear is natural and justified. And this kind of fear doesn’t require a massive disaster to occur. It can be something small. Have you ever had a dog chase after you while riding a bicycle? Your fear of getting bitten kicks in and you get a burst of adrenaline so you can pedal faster and get away.

    But in reality the majority of people who live in a normal, first world society will rarely, if ever, have to experience that serious fight-or-die type of fear. In fact, much of the fear and anxiety we feel comes from our own minds and that is the fear we need to conquer if we want to enjoy traveling alone and camping alone.

    Mind Games

    As you sit in your tent in the woods at night, or in the middle of the desert, all by yourself, your mind can really mess you up if you let it. In this world of TV, horror movies and urban legends, we have a tendency to jump to the worst conclusion whenever we hear a noise in the night. Thoughts of zombies, serial killers and huge angry bears fill our heads when in all honesty, it’s probably just a chipmunk.

    The fears inside our heads don’t match up with what’s happening in real life. And if you dwell on those thoughts, you’ll only become more and more afraid and anxious with every night-time noise outside your tent. It will be a long, sleepless night. And for no reason at all. But, to be honest, it’s perfectly normal for your mind to have fearful thoughts in unfamiliar situations. The trick is to learn how to deal with those thoughts and overcome those unrealistic fears.

    There are a number of mind games that you can play to take control of your thoughts and overcome your fears, especially those initial fears that you’re going to feel the first few times you sleep outdoors.

    • Acknowledge your fears and recognize that they are normal.
    • Determine exactly what it is you are afraid of. Be specific.
    • Question your fears. Remember, fear is the belief that something is harmful.
    • Distract yourself with something enjoyable such as an activity or reading to occupy your mind.
    • Practice motivating self talk. Tell yourself that there is nothing out there that wants to hurt you. Because, quite honestly, that’s the truth.

    Overcome Fears by Starting Small

    One of the best ways to overcome your fear is to start exposing yourself to the activity that’s causing the fear. You don’t have to jump in with both feet right away. Start small and work your way up. Let’s assume you’re starting from the beginning. Maybe you already have some group riding experience and some experience with overnight trips in hotels and maybe a night in a campground, but you’ve never done anything alone. Where do you start?

    Each time you expose yourself to a situation that scares you, take notice of how you react to that fear. Notice your heartbeat and breathing patterns. Take note of what’s happening in your mind and pay attention to how you are talking to yourself. What is your mind saying? Are those thoughts taking your fears to an unnecessary level? Are they making the situation worse? Once you get to know how your mind reacts to the initial fears that you encounter when exposing yourself to new situations, you can then take steps to change your thought process.

    Ride By Yourself

    Start by getting some experience riding your motorcycle alone. Go on a few long rides, at least a few hours by yourself. Stay in populated areas at first, then gradually venture off onto more remote routes and less populated roads. Take a ride through some heavily forested areas to get used to the towering trees, strange shadows and winding turns. Ride out on some long, straight deserted roads to get used to the feeling of the vast, open desert. When I started going on day rides alone rather than in a group, I found myself enjoying it so much more. You can go anywhere you want. You can stop any time you want and you don’t have to wait on the rest of the group when you’re ready for kickstands up.

    Riding by yourself will also force you to find your own way which will force you to overcome your fear of getting lost. You won’t have a group leader planning the route or telling you which way to go. You will have to figure it out on your own. Take a few rides in different types of places like busy cities, small country towns, mountain roads. Practice using your GPS or a paper map on these small trips. If you find yourself in a situation where you think you might be lost, practice staying calm and making rational decisions based on knowledge and facts, rather than based on the emotion of fear. I live by the philosophy of you never get lost. You just make unplanned detours.

    Take an Overnight Motorcycle Trip By Yourself

    Take a trip farther away from home and spend the night in a hotel alone. This will get you accustomed to entertaining yourself without having friends and family around. It’s a great time to relax and recharge especially if you are somewhat introverted, or a mom who never gets a second alone (ahhhh). You can extend this short solo trip to include 2 nights in different locations giving you even more opportunities to experience traveling alone, interacting with strangers at restaurants and gas stations, and learning who to talk to and who to avoid. When you’re a woman traveling alone on a motorcycle, you’re going to get a lot of attention. Most of it will be friendly and encouraging as people are often in awe of your bravery. But occasionally you’ll run into that one creep who just wants to hit on you. Short solo trips will get you used to dealing with all sorts of people and sharpen your intuitions and people reading skills.

    Go Car Camping by Yourself

    If you’ve never been camping in your life, find some friends who camp and go with them a few times to learn the basics about camping, building a fire, cooking and sleeping outdoors, etc. But if you’re an experienced camper, start by leaving the motorcycle at home and doing a few solo camping trips in your car, close to home, and in a populated campground. This will get you used to sleeping outdoors and dealing with the sounds of nature and the darkness without having to be completely alone.

    Your first solo camping trip will also allow you the opportunity to practice setting up and taking down your equipment. You’ll learn to cook your meals outdoors and, most importantly, you’ll learn how to keep a clean camp and store your food properly. I recommend that you cook using the stove and cook wear that you will be taking on your motorcycle. Leave the iron skillet and big camp stove at home.

    It’s very important at this step to practice keeping your campsite clean, throwing away your trash each night, avoid eating or keeping food or scented items in your tent, and store your food in food lockers, bear lockers, or hung up depending on where you’re camping. Don’t leave food in your car because when you’re motorcycle camping, you won’t have the luxury of a car to stash your food in. Start these habits early and you’ll be less fearful of an animal encounter.

    Here are a few things you can do on your first solo camping trip that will help you keep from losing sleep due to unfounded fears.

    • Avoid reading scary stories or watching scary shows before or during your trip. Don’t read true crime stories or “Bear Attacks of the Century”. Yes, it’s a real book.
    • Stay busy. Keep yourself occupied with a chore or an activity to keep yourself entertained.
    • Some people like to sleep with ear plugs to dampen some of the smaller night time noises like rustling in bushes. Those little noises are what seem to cause a lot of the unnecessary fears we have.
    • If you don’t care for ear plugs, listen to the sounds you hear and try to identify them. Once you know what’s making the sound, you won’t be afraid of it.
    • Meditate, pray or use other relaxation techniques to calm your nerves such as deep breathing exercises. Relax and prepare yourself for sleeping. Repeat this step if you’re awakened by noises during the night.

    There is one more thing that you will likely encounter when you’re camping that can really freak some people out. If you hear normal animal noises outside your tent, don’t be afraid to investigate the sound. Get your flashlight and see what’s out there. When you do this, you’re likely to see two glowing eyes staring back at you. It can look a little creepy, but it’s nothing to worry about. If you’ve done your research you should already know what animals are common in the area. Those eyes likely belong to a raccoon, skunk or deer. Raccoons and skunks are nocturnal and they will all come out to find food as soon as the sun goes down. Let out a shout, tell them to get lost, they will take off and you can relax.

    Go Camping One Night with your Motorcycle

    Once you have a little bit of experience camping on your own, now it’s time to take the motorcycle. This time, venture out to a more remote and less populated campground. Try camping in an area where you know there will be more dangerous wildlife, such as bear country. This will also give you the opportunity to practice safety skills such as hanging your food if there are no bear lockers, keeping your campsite clear of scraps and trash. This time you won’t have your car to hide in if you’re scared. So, it will take you a little farther into your fear zone giving you a chance to practice good mental skills to overcome those fears. Extend these trips into two nights, or three. You’ll soon find yourself enjoying the outdoors more and more and letting go of the fears of being outdoors that used to keep you awake at night.

    What’s Making That Noise?

    One way to overcome fear is to become familiar with the noises you’ll hear at night.In this kind of situation we start to encounter unfamiliar noises or we don’t have the usual ambient sounds that lull us to sleep each night when we are home. Familiar noises like traffic, the neighbor’s dog barking or a distant train; these are noises we’ve come accustom to and they don’t cause us alarm. But when camping you’re going to hear a lot of squeaks, chirps, footsteps, rustling in the bushes, noise in the trees and sometimes it will be in your campsite. You can stay awake in your tent all night constantly saying “What was that?!” or you can become familiar and comfortable with those sounds.

    My tip for camping alone is to study up on the animals that are common in the area where you will be camping. You can learn the typical sounds that those animals make so that when you hear them in the wilderness, you’ll be able to identify the animal and decide if you really need to be anxious about it or not. In fall of 2018 I was tent camping on California’s central coast. I was lulled to sleep by the gentle sound of ocean waves in the background and an occasional screech of owls in the trees. But at about 2:00 AM, I heard the most hideous grunting and growling from what seemed to be right outside my tent.

    The sound traveled as this thing walked past and into the bushes and I could tell there was more than one of them. I already knew there was nothing in the area that could hurt me and as they walked away the sound slowly disappeared, but I had never heard such a disturbing sound before. When I got home I did a little research and it turned out to be skunks. Just skunks looking for food. But, even though I was not familiar with the growling sounds, they didn’t scare me because I already knew what animals were in the area and I knew that none of them would bother me or hurt me as long as I kept a clean camp and my food put away. Now I know what a growling skunk sounds like.

    Overcome Your Fear of People

    A lot of solo travelers, solo campers and wilderness enthusiasts will often say that the thing they fear most is other people. Like any fear, this is a legitimate concern and there are certainly people who don’t have your best interest in mind. Overcoming this fear takes a basic trust in humankind. Travelers will tell you that the majority of people they encounter are good natured, kind, are interested in your journey and are willing to lend a helping hand if and when you need it.

    I’ve been on numerous solo trips and I have always met friendly people who often invite me for a cup of coffee or to join their group at camp for a beer. As a woman on a motorcycle, people seem to be more impressed with my courage and bravery to travel alone and it usually ends up in a good conversation. Back when I owned a vintage motorcycle, my 1984 Yamaha FJ1100, I got so much attention from men…wait, I mean, my motorcycle got the attention. I met a lot of gentlemen who either owned that bike or knew someone who owned it and I really enjoyed talking about the motorcycle. Again, I met some really nice people. As for those people who are not so nice; here’s where you really need to trust your intuition and use your instincts. Practice common sense safety. Stranger danger isn’t just for our kids.

    Another tip for getting over your fear of strangers is to carry something that provides you with protection against an attacker. Whether it be pepper spray, a knife, a fire arm or your teddy bear, this is a personal choice. Often simply having some type of protection laying close by as you sleep, will help settle your fears.

    Practice Good Safety

    There are  other things you can do that will help you with how much fear you might have when you travel and especially when you stop for the nigh, which seems to be the time when people are scared the most. Practicing good safety habits is one of those things. In the outdoors, practice keeping your campsite clean to avoid attracting animals that are looking for food. If animals come snooping around, but you know you stored your food properly, your fears will be lessened and you can relax more knowing that they won’t find what they’re looking for.

    Make sure you arrive at your campsite before sundown. This will give you time to get familiar with your surroundings and determine if there are any special precautions you should take to be safe. I once asked a camp host if I could switch sites simply because my neighbors were a group of rowdy, beer drinking guys. When I told her I was traveling alone, she didn’t give it a second thought and assigned me a new site. She was even nice enough to deliver some campfire wood to me. Letting her know that I was alone, and feeling her empathy, told me that she and her husband would be keeping a watchful eye out for me and that gave me some peace of mind.

    If you’re staying in a hotel, practice common sense safety habits. Park your motorcycle in a safe place and lock it to avoid theft. Bring all your valuables in with you. Lock your hotel doors and windows. Doing these simple things will give you more peace of mind and reduce or even eliminate your fears of traveling alone.

    Reacting to Fear

    No matter where your trip takes you, to the wilderness or to a big city, there’s really no way to completely avoid a fearful moment or a tense or anxious situation. So, when it happens, it’s important to not let your fear get the best of you so you can make intelligent decisions to get out of a dangerous or fearful situation. Hearing scary noises in the middle of the night that you know are a valid reason for concern will get your adrenaline pumping and that fear will make it more difficult to make rational decisions. Your first instinct when encountering a bear is to run. What’s the last thing you’re supposed to do when encountering a bear? Run. This is the perfect example of why you need to control your fears so you can make the right decision.

    If you find yourself in a tense situation, such as getting lost or hearing a bear in your campsite, take a moment to breath and assess the situation. Take a break from riding if you’re lost, calm your nerves and take some time figure out where you are and where you need to go. You won’t be able to make the right decision if your mind is fogged with panic. The same goes for when you’re in your tent and can hear the huffing of a bear sniffing around your camp. Take a few deep breaths to calm your nerves. Assess the situation and decide what action you need to take. Often, if an animal is passing through your camp, you don’t need to do anything but let it pass.

    Wrap Up

    I hope the information laid out in this article can help anyone who is new to solo motorcycle travel to overcome their fear of taking the next step. Fear is a natural emotion, but it should not be so paralyzing that you never do things you’ve always wanted to do. Take steps to overcome your initial fears. Learn techniques to reduce your fears and to deal with new fears that you will encounter while on your journey.

    Every time you encounter a new fear, especially in a more controlled manner, you will come out stronger. You will build up more strength and courage with each experience. Your goal is not to become fearless. Instead, your goal is to not let fear take you over. Get out, take risks and enjoy your adventure.

  • 9 Different Motorcycle Stand Options: How To Put A Motorcycle On A Stand

    9 Different Motorcycle Stand Options: How To Put A Motorcycle On A Stand

    Reading Time: 14 minutes

    If you’re like me, you enjoy doing your own maintenance work on your motorcycle at home. And no motorcycle garage would be complete without some type of stand for your bike. A stand makes it possible to do so many repair jobs from things as simple as lubing your chain, to removing the wheels or doing a complete front fork rebuild.

    There are a lot of different types of motorcycle stand for different motorcycle models. It’s important to understand what each one does so that you can choose the best motorcycle stand. Sometimes you’ll find yourself needing to put your bike on a stand when you’re on a ride in the case of a breakdown. So, this article will cover 9 different methods for putting your motorcycle up on a stand.

    Center Stand

    Center stands are permanently installed on the motorcycle usually in addition to a kickstand or side stand. Center stands are probably most common on dual sports, adventure bikes and touring bikes, although just about any standard or sport bike can have one installed. Big, heavy cruisers don’t generally have center stands due to their weight.

    The center motorcycle stand is installed just under the center portion of the bike and attached to the frame. It is spring loaded to keep it folded up under the bike when not in use. When the motorcycle is on the stand, the rear wheel will be lifted off the ground by a couple of inches. This makes it very easy to do any type of maintenance on the rear wheel and chain, or if you just need the bike upright to do maintenance. The front wheel, however, will still contact the ground.

    Use caution when placing your motorcycle on the center stand as it will not be as stable as it is on the side stand. Center motorcycle stands provide only a narrow footprint and raise the center of gravity leaving your bike more vulnerable to tipping over. Center stands aren’t’ really designed to be used every time you park your motorcycle but they can be really handy when parking on some surfaces such as on a slight sideways incline. The center stand is also very nice to have if you do a lot of touring. It make chain maintenance on the road very easy and, if you have to fix a flat on the road, a center stand will make that possible. Another benefit is that it makes it easier to pack side cases when the bike is up on the stand. I find it a lot easier to secure bags onto my motorcycle if it is upright rather than leaning to one side.

    Putting your motorcycle on the center stand can be tricky especially if you have a heavy bike or if you don’t have the upper body strength to do it. But, there is a technique to it. Stand at the left side of your bike. With your right foot, hold the center stand against the ground. With your right hand, grab the left side of the motorcycle (some bikes come with a special handle for this) and lift up, while at the same time, kicking your right foot and the center stand forward. The motorcycle will pop up onto the stand. It takes some practice to get it right, but once you figure out the leverage points, it will become second nature. To take your bike off the center stand, simply push the bike forward slightly and the stand will snap back up, and your bike will plop back to the ground. Be sure to hold it steady and have the kickstand ready to hold the bike up.

    Dirt Bike Box Stand

    box stand

    This is the simplest stand you can own. It’s basically a small square platform on a box shaped frame that’s about a foot or two tall. You will most often see these types of stands around the dirt bike track as generally dirt bikes do not come with kick stands. To get your motorcycle onto this stand you will have to lift it up and set it on the stand yourself.

    Dirt bikes are not very heavy compared to other motorcycles and there is a simple technique to lifting the bike onto the stand without injuring yourself or pulling your back out. To lift it up:

    • Stand on one side of the bike
    • Grab the rear fender on the opposite side
    • Squat down slightly and push your hip against the motorcycle
    • Lift up with your hip and legs and swing the bike onto the stand

    Your legs and hips are doing the heavy lifting rather than your arms and back. When you do it right, it’s a simple 2 second process. Places you should NOT grab and lift are the pipes, the rear wheel or reaching down to pick it up by the swing arm. Doing so could cause injury (hot pipes) or cause you to do a whole lot more work that you need to.

    Rear Swing Arm Stand

    rear stand small

    Rear wheel stands with swing arm attachments are a very common way to lift up the rear wheel of your motorcycle. These stands are designed to lift the motorcycle by fitting under the swing arms. The shape of the lift, along with its wheels, uses leverage to lift the bike up a few inches off the ground. There are several different brands on the market and most will come with different attachments to accommodate different bikes. I personally use a Pit Bull stand and I’ve been very happy with it. You can find them on Amazon. Padded platforms are designed to lift the bike from under the swings arms. Spool attachments allow you to lift the bike from rear wheel spools. I’ve always found it easier to use rear swing arm spools with the stand and the spools also double as rear sliders adding protection if your bike goes down.

    Most rear stands are universal and will work with nearly all motorcycles. However, if you have a motorcycle with a single sided swing arm, you’ll need a stand designed for it. These stands work the same way, but they will attach to the side without the swing arm by fitting into the wheel axle.

    Like any stand, it takes a little bit of practice to hold your motorcycle in place with one hand and line up the stand with the other. It’s a bit of a balancing act, but once you have it figured out, you’ll have no problems popping your bike up. A rear stand is hardly used by motorcycle riders. Nevertheless, many riders prefer rear stand for their motorcycles for extra safety on flat spots. It takes little effort to add a rear stand with a removable handle to your motorcycles.

    Front Fork Stand

    front wheel stand

    Front fork stands are similar to rear swing arm stands and you can often buy them in sets. Check out the price on a set here on Amazon. These stands are designed to kind of cradle the front forks between two supports, lifting the front wheel off the ground. The placement of the stand is super important because, if the forks don’t set in place just right, the motorcycle has a risk of falling off the stand. That would suck if you’ve taken off your front wheel already. Yikes.

    Keep in mind that you can not use the front stand alone. It is not stable enough to hold your bike steady, so you must use it with a rear stand. Always put the bike on the rear stand first. This will provided the stability needed to enable you to raise the front wheel. Front for stands are great for storing your bike during the off season, for removing the front wheel or working on the brakes. However, you will not be able to remove the front forks with this kind of stand.

    Triple Tree Stand

    A Triple tree stand is very similar to a front fork stand, but instead of lifting the motorcycle by the forks, it attaches to the center hole under the triple tree. In case you don’t know, a triple tree, or triple clamp, is a somewhat triangular shaped clamp that attaches to the top of your forks and to the front of the motorcycle frame. Your handlebars are also attached to the triple tree.

    Stands like this will come equipped with 4 or 5 different size pins to insure you have one that will fit your brand of motorcycle. These stands provide you with a stable platform allowing you to do a number of repairs to the front of the motorcycle, such as a front fork rebuild. Find one that fits your bike here.

    Snap Jack Folding Portable Jack

    Not every motorcycle owner has room to store large motorcycle stands, or they want something that is portable that can be packed in their on board tool kit. That’s where the Snap Jack comes in handy. The Snap Jack, make by Tirox, is a patented two piece, folding stand that fits under the swing arm opposite side of the side stand or kick stand. When you push on it, it snaps into place, lifting the rear wheel off the ground by about an inch, or just enough to spin the wheel making it the perfect stand for doing chain and rear wheel maintenance on the road.

    The first version of the Snap Jack had a few flaws, but thanks to consumers who voiced their concerns and wishes, the company came out with the Snap Jack V2 and included a lot of improvements. When you purchase it, the kit will come with a Velcro strap that you attach to the front brake lever to prevent the motorcycle from rolling forward. It also comes with two rubber non-skid pads that will assist in keeping the jack steady on a smooth surface.  Cotter pins lock the jack into place when the bike is lifted, to prevent the jack from folding accidentally.

    Installing the jack is a little tricky and make take several tries to get it at the right angle so it lifts the bike sufficiently. There are a few precautions to take when using the stand. When pushing the jack in place, as it snaps and lifts the bike, be sure to keep the fleshy part of your hand away from the hinge or it will take a bite out of you. Also, when releasing the jack, keep your fingers clear of the hinge. If you’re paying attention, you won’t have any problems with it, however, wearing a glove will help protect your skin from painful pinches.

    Hydraulic Lift

    So far the stands I’ve talked about work great for sport bikes, smaller motorcycles or adventure bikes, but what if you have big 1300 pounder like a Gold Wing or a fully loaded Road King? This is where a hydraulic lift comes in handy. These lifts come in a variety of styles and brands but they all generally work the same. They come with casters so you can easily roll the lift under the motorcycle. Once you find a secure spot for it to lift against the frame, you’ll use a foot pump to begin lifting the bike. Some lifts will come with a handle so you can pump up the lift by hand.

    Hydraulic lifts will raise the entire motorcycle from the center lifting both wheels off the ground. Some taller scissor lifts can lift a motorcycle up a couple of feet allowing you to work on the motorcycle while standing comfortably. Easier on the back. Be careful of scissor stands however, as the bike will lose stability the higher it is raised, especially large motorcycles. In any case, when you select a hydraulic lift, make sure you purchase one that will handle your motorcycles weight capacity. Not all stands are built tough enough to lift your heavy bike. Here’s one on Amazon that is rated to hold up to 1500 pounds. A good investment if you plan to do your own maintenance.

    Hydraulic lifts also come in large professional models where you can roll your motorcycle onto a platform, some with wheel chocks, then raise the bike up so you can work on it while comfortable standing. These are great for some repairs, however, if you’re doing anything that requires the wheels be lifted off the platform, you’ll have to use a different stand.

    Motorcycle Dolly

    A motorcycle dolly has a different purpose than other motorcycle stands. It’s not designed to lift the motorcycle wheels off the ground but, it will keep your bike steady and in place while doing maintenance and repairs. A low profile dolly is used to move a heavy motorcycle around on a solid surface in any direction. Let’s say you have a limited amount of space in your garage and you want to park your motorcycle in a tight spot. Often backing it in can be tricky and you risk bumping into things as well as scratching or denting your motorcycle.

    With a motorcycle dolly you will roll your bike onto the dolly and secure it into place. The wheels on the dolly will allow you to push it into any tight spot, against a wall, or where ever you need to fit it in your garage or shop. Very simple, very handy. They are surprisingly inexpensive too and you can find them easily, like this one on Amazon.

    Other reasons for using a dolly is if you own more than one motorcycle, or have a collection and you may want to easily move your bikes around, rearrange them, bring one out for riding, etc. Or, if you have a motorcycle that you don’t ride very often that you need to occasionally move out of the way.

    DIY Stand

    A lot of creative people have built their own motorcycle lifts and stands using woods, screws and nails. Sometimes you need something similar to a center stand or a hydraulic lift that lifts both wheels off the ground from the center of the motorcycle. A common DIY stand consists of several 2×4 or 2×6 pieces of lumber, glued and nailed together, this serves as the lift.

    On one end of the lift, you can install a long piece of lumber, or long sturdy pipe to use as a handle. After sliding the homemade lift under the motorcycle, use the handle’s length for leverage, turning the lift onto its side. In doing so, it will lift the motorcycle off the ground.

    A homemade box stand would be super easy to build using some two by fours and some sturdy plywood on the top and bottom. Apply some anti-skid rubber material under the legs to keep it from sliding when you lift the bike onto the stand. You can also apply rubber padding on the top to protect the bottom of your bike.

    On the road I’ve seen dual sport riders getting very creative with stands on bikes that don’t have a center stand. Often a tree stump, a log, or a big rock will provide you with the perfect height to get your bike off the ground so you can repair a flat. Be extra cautions when doing something like this and make sure you don’t puncture a pip or oil pan by setting your bike on a jagged rock. Use common sense.

    Remember, that any type of do it yourself, homemade lift or stand is not guaranteed to hold the weight of your motorcycle or is it guaranteed to keep your bike steady. While many people have had good luck with DIY stands, you still need to be cautious. The benefits of a manufactured stand over a homemade one, is that they are tested and rated to hold a certain amount of weight, and the company may provide some protection to the consumer if the stand or jack fails. However, if your DIY stand fails, your bike falls off and is damaged, that’s all on you. So, think it through before you build your stand.

    To wrap it up, there you have 9 different ways you can lift up your motorcycle to make maintenance, repairs and storage much easier.

    infographic about motorcycle stands

  • Motorcycle Road Trip Planning: 10 Steps To Motorcycle Trip Planning

    Motorcycle Road Trip Planning: 10 Steps To Motorcycle Trip Planning

    Reading Time: 17 minutes

    One of my dream trips that I’ve wanted to do for years is a solo motorcycle tour around the United States, and I plan to make that happen very soon. But the question is, how does one begin to plan for such a trip? Not everyone is brave or crazy enough to just pack up and ride without figuring out where they will go and where they will stay ahead of time. Also, if your time is limited, careful planning is necessary so you can see the sights and still make it back home on time and on schedule. Also, it’s better to arrange all of your riding maps, hotel confirmations, directions etc. with your free online itinerary.

    In this article, we’ll look at 10 steps you might want to take to map out your route, calculate your miles and figure out where you will stop for lodging, gas, and sightseeing. Keep in mind that this is only one way of mapping out a cross-country ride. It’s how I have approached it, and hopefully, it will work for you.

    1. Determine the Length of your Trip

    This is an important first step because it will determine the length of your route and may limit the number of attractions or towns you can visit. If you are considering a tour of the entire country, from coast to coast and back, you will probably want to give yourself at least a couple of months to do it right. Just to give you an idea, it takes about 5 to 6 days to drive from New York to Los Angeles if you drive 8 to 10 hours a day or 800 to 1,000 miles per day, and that’s without stopping to see the sights. So, just the fact that you’ll be on a motorcycle will cut those hours in half. In addition, if you want to see any landmarks or get to know the towns you’ll be visiting, this will increase your travel time even more.

    If you don’t have 2 or 3 months to dedicate to your ride, you can consider taking a shorter trip and enjoying a shorter route, one that covers a particular region of the country. A grand tour of the Pacific Northwest, or a tour of canyon lands and deserts of Utah and Arizona.

    At this point, it’s also a good idea to consider what type of roads you’d like to ride. Do you want to limit it all to the freeway or interstate highway riding? Or, would you like to brake away from the highway and tour some of the less travelled roads? The type of road you select will also determine how many total miles you’ll be able to ride. Riding at highway speeds makes going from point A to point B a quicker journey. While riding through winding forest roads or narrow country roads will slow you down significantly.

    The last thing to consider is the time of year you want to ride. Some parts of the country are limited by season. So, if you want to see the northeastern part of the country, don’t plan your ride in winter. If you want to see Death Valley and surrounding deserts, don’t do it in the summer, you’ll hate it. In fact, Death Valley campgrounds and hotels or accomodations are closed during the summer months because the valley floor in July regularly reaches temperatures of close to 120°F. The best time to visit the desert is in March and April when the wildflowers are in bloom. So, summer in the north and winter in the south.

    One last tip is to always add a couple of days to your expected time, up to a week depending on your full trip length. This will allow you to relax and not feel in such a rush. It will also keep you prepared for unexpected downtime in case your motorcycle needs repairs or if you realize you just need an extra day of rest before getting back on the motorcycle.

    At this point, set a date. Get all the approvals you need from your boss, spouse, kids, dogs and cats.

    2. Decide How Many Riding Miles Per Day?

    Not that you know how long your total trip will take, it’s time to break it down into average daily mileage. Determine how many miles you have ridden in the past. What’s been your longest day so far? How did you feel during the ride and after? You will want to avoid riding so many miles in one day that you begin to compromise your safety. Also, when trying to figure this out, you need to look beyond mileage only and look at how many hours you will be on the motorcycle, and how much energy you’ll be spending while riding. Twisty, technical roads will wear you out faster than cruising on the freeway.

    When plotting out your route you’ll find that some days will be shorter than others due to the towns or sights you want to visit. This makes a long riding day easier to handle knowing that you’ll have a shorter ride the next day. But, too many long days in a row will take its toll, so keep this in mind when mapping out your ride.

    3. Decide What you Want to See

    This is a great time to get out a bag map, lay it out on the kitchen table and start a motorcycle trip planning. I like to use paper maps at this point rather than staring at a computer screen. A big map gives you a visualization of the big picture. A laminated map like this one on Amazon, along with a set of colored dry erase pens is the perfect tool for this step. This is your brainstorming session. At this point, don’t worry about mileage, just start marking all the points you’ve always wanted to visit. If you have friends or family that you want to see, mark it down on your map.

    You can use different colors to determine “must see” sights vs. sights you’d like to see if you have time. If some towns will require more than one day’s stay, write down a number alongside that town on the map. Right now, you’re starting to build your route and it is soon going to take shape. This is the fun part. And at this point, you can mark down anything you want, any natural or man-made wonder you’ve ever dreamed of seeing, even the giant ball of twine in Cawker City, Kansas. Seriously.

    4.  Choose What Kind of Roads you Want To Ride

    All right. Now you have a map with a bunch of stopping points on it. Now it’s time to string all those stops together. This is the point where you will start to determine what kinds of roads you want to ride on. A motorcycle trip is not just about the stopping points, it’s also about the scenery along the way. The beauty of the road, connecting with nature and not letting the world zoom past you is what these kinds of trips are all about. In my opinion, the freeways and highways should be ditched as much as possible. An open road journey or freeways won’t take you through quaint little towns or through great national parks. Although they may be necessary on some days, try to find a more exciting path. Determining the kinds of paths before going on a trip can help you to plan the most scenic motorcycle rides.

    At this step, you can add some online research to your planning. Motorcycle rider forums are a great resource for finding amazing roads. The United States is full of legendary roads such as The Tail of the Dragon in North Carolina, or Highway 36 in Northern California, 140 miles of twisties, or Pikes Peak in Colorado. If you’re looking for some of these great riding experiences, it’s time to add them to your brainstorming map. Trace out these “must ride” roads in their own special color. (I know, this color coding thing may sound a little hokey but if you love maps and you love the planning process like I do, you’ll have a lot of fun doing it).

    5. Plot Out a Preliminary Route

    Now that you have points of interest and special roads you want to ride, go to your laminated map and start tracing routes between the sights you’ve circled. Keep in mind that this is just a preliminary route and you’ll be nailing down actual roads later in the planning process. So, don’t worry too much about accuracy. You can trace out the main highways, then look a little closer on the map to see if there’s an alternate route that will take you off the highway. Do this for every single sight or stopping point you circled on your map, even the ones that aren’t that important.

    During this process of tracing a logical route, you’ll probably find a few stops that are going to be impossible to see without doing a bunch of backtracking and zig-zagging. This is where you’ll start eliminating those sights. Hopefully, that giant ball of twine won’t be out of the picture. That would be tragic. At this point, you’ve probably noticed why the laminated map and dry erase pens are so perfect for this step. Erase, re-draw, erase, re-draw. On a large map you won’t be able to see some of the more narrow roads, but at least you’ll get a good idea of which roads you’ll take to get from one point to the next.

    6. Estimate your Daily Mileage

    At this next step you will get your first opportunity to calculate your daily mileage. Using your map’s distance ratios scale, make a rough estimate of how many miles you will have to ride between each of your stopping points.  Don’t be surprised if you’ve plotted so many attractions on your map that you will have to ride for a year to get them all in. This step is another point in which you will start eliminating some things and changing your preliminary route to match what you’ve determined to be your average daily riding time and mileage. If your average is 350 miles, then at every 350 miles on your route, make a mark on the map. On some spots on the map, you will determine that you can ride more or you can ride less in a day.

    This step of the process is going to take a little more time than previous steps and will take a lot more thought along with some trial and error. Again, you’ll probably find yourself erasing and re-drawing, erase, re-draw, erase, re-draw. What you have now, standing back and looking at your giant map, is the rough route, rough mileage and roughly the number of days you will be on your trip. Count up the days and be sure to include the non-riding, sight-seeing, or motorcycle maintenance days that you’ve marked on your map.

    7. Plot your Route on GPS

    Motorcycle GPS ride maps can be handy while you plan for most scenic motorcycle rides. Now it’s time to get more detailed and start plotting your actual route using electronic maps, or GPS systems. A lot of people will automatically turn to satellite Maps for this step, which is a good resource for this step. But, there are other web based trip planners that do a good job in providing regional and road maps. Below are a few of the better route planning websites I’ve found.

    • Roadtrippers Trip Planner – It’s a great motorcycle trip planner for finding attractions, camping, hotels, lodging in a specific area
    • Trip Maker by Rand McNally – Services like customize a route and get calculated miles, total driving time and estimated gas prices make it a good motorcycle trip planner.
    • Harley Davidson’s Ride Planner – This is the leading online resource for planning a trip on your motorcycles. You can customize your route and decide to avoid highways. You can also download your route to a GPX file, which means GPS Exchange Format, for your navigation system. The map also shows you where the HD dealerships are located. For road planning and assistance while you are on a motorcycle road trip, download the mobile app as it aids in allowing you to utilize other options and route a longer ride.
    • The Open Road Journey Planner – A source of information for motorcycle riders looking for a motorcycle road trip planning, great roads, or routes. This ride planner will provide both long and short distance riders with plenty of alternatives and inspiration. Take a look at the reviews and the scenic photos from fellow bikers to pick the best route needed for your next road trip. Once you’ve made a choice, download directions to your GPS. Additionally, to let people know who the top dog is, the website awards motorcyclists as they complete rides and challenging tasks. In short, this motorcycle trip planner can help you by all means along the way.

    Additionally, there are plenty of websites where you may find regional and road maps, GPS files, and other great resources for your long ride or a road trip planning. You can also find people who can help you to make your travel planning at ease. They can help you with data driven insights on accommodation trends. You can also check out outlets such as The New York Times, USA Today, LA Times and so on to learn about the motorcycle road trip planning and a perfect ride.

    Use your big, paper map that you’ve marked up as a reference and start plotting out a route for each section. You can split it up day by day or route out a few days at a time. I find that it’s easier to build a route from one major city to another, then determine what the total is. From there you can divide the route up by mileage and day.

    This is the point where you can zoom into the map and find the fun, scenic roads, off the main highways. Most maps start with giving you the quickest route even if you choose the “avoid highways” options. This is a good starting point. You can tweak the route to hit the roads and points of interest that you want to see.

    At this point in your planning you want to take the time to map out each day’s mileage based on how many miles your are comfortable riding and based on what sights you want to see. Be careful that you don’t schedule too many long riding days in a row. Often when people plan out each day, they want to see so many things that they become over-ambitious. For every two long mileage days, schedule a short day or even a non-riding day in places where you want to spend some time seeing the sights.

    Once you have each day, or each section mapped out, be sure to save each section of the route that you build. You’ve put in a lot of work so far and you don’t want to lose it. If you’re using Google maps, go to their website called My Maps, where you can save your own custom maps. If you use other route planning websites you will likely have to create an account to safe your routes.

    8. Choose Lodging and Gas Stops

    In the last step you chose a fairly detailed route with every road and turn. You’ve split up the route into days depending on how many miles you want to ride each day. Now you need to figure out where you’re going to stay each night and determine where your gas stops will be.

    There is a wide variety of lodging and accommodations to pick from when you’re traveling with a wider variety of costs. This step will be determined by how much money you have to invest in the most scenic motorcycle rides. Hotels, motels, Air B-n-B’s are the more expensive accommodations, even if you prefer to stay at the less expensive ones. This can be easily done using a mobile app. Camping is a very affordable option depending on where you are and you can often find BLM land that you can camp on for free. Another option is couch surfing, something I’ve never tried, but people seem to have good luck with it.  Whichever option you select, do plenty of research and read reviews of fellow bikers who have stayed at a particular hotel or campground. You can take a look at newspapers like The New York Times, USA Today and LA Times to find more information about motorcycle trip planning and a perfect ride.

    A month or two before your big motorcycle tour, you may want to consider making reservations at places where you know it will be difficult to find lodging on the fly. I certainly wouldn’t do this for every stop or every night, especially if you’re on an epic month long trip, or longer. But, if you do make reservations will ahead of time, make sure you understand cancellation policies.

    You will be making adjustments to your daily rides due to the availability of lodging. You may have to extend a day’s ride to get to a certain campground, or you may shorten your ride for the day. Again, be careful not to schedule too many miles in one day.

    It’s a smart idea to mark now gas stops based on how many miles you can travel between fill ups. It’s nice to have a general idea of how far the next fuel station is so you know whether or not to top-off before leaving a town.  If you will be riding on some out-of-the-way roads with few gas stops, you may want to consider carrying extra fuel. For tips on carry extra gas, read this article. Come to think of it, even if your planned route has a gas stop in a small town, it’s entirely possible that the gas station will be closed or no longer in service. This has happened to me in a few tiny Northern California mining towns. One station, closed on Sundays.

    9. Research the Final Route

    This is the point where you want to do some final research on your route and be ready to make a few adjustments. GPS navigation systems, satellite maps like Google maps are never 100% accurate. They don’t take into account things like rush hour traffic, dangerous neighborhoods, construction or road closures. So, don’t rely totally on GPS.

    If your route takes you through some larger cities, take some time to do some research on those cities and consider traffic, rush hour, etc. Is it making you ride in a notoriously bad neighborhood? GPS map systems can lead you into places you might not want to go. Use the mobile app as a guideline and then do some research especially if your GPS takes you through a city. Keep working on the traffic patterns and the neighborhoods and check to see if there are any major construction projects going on that will create a delay.

    While on your ride, you should take time daily to study the next day’s route. Look up information such as traffic, weather, road closures and construction. Make a note of the season and the probable weather in the locations you’ll be riding through. Watch the local news for local information that might affect your ride.

    10. Be Open to Changes

    Your route and daily itinerary should always remain flexible. Even though you’ve put a lot of work into planning each day of you ride, you have to be willing to change it on the fly. You never know what you’re going to encounter when on the road. You will face obstacles such as road closures, detours, traffic, or a sudden urge to take a side trip to see the giant ball of twine. So, always be willing to make impromptu changes to your journey and don’t stress over the fact that you didn’t stick to your plan 100%.

    If you make sudden changes to your itinerary, be sure to notify someone of your changes, especially if you are traveling alone and riding solo. Maybe this should have been mentioned earlier in this article, but you should always give your ride itinerary to your spouse, a family member or a close friend before you leave, and update your itinerary with that person whenever you make changes. Also, sharing motorcycle GPS ride maps through the mobile app is a good idea when you are on a motorcycle tour. Always consider riding bikes with registered trademarks.

    There are more factors to take into account if you plan to camp along the way than if you are staying in motels or any other accommodations every night. In case you face issues or adverse situations, there are a few products that can keep you protected. It’s better to pack products like a set of rain gear in case you find yourself in a storm. A tiny tool roll, some zip ties, can easily be packed and can be very helpful. Additionally, a modest tire-repair kit can come handy. Consider carrying water bottles and healthy snacks with less added sugar and a combination of dried fruit, and nuts as it can be very useful while you are on a road trip. After you’ve done all this planning, you can look forward to getting your motorcycle in peak travel condition, to deciding what equipment to bring, what clothes to pack. Also, consider riding bikes with registered trademarks and arranging all of your riding maps, hotel confirmations, directions, and more with your free online itinerary.

    I hope this list of 10 things to do to map out the most scenic motorcycle rides has helped you in making your epic vacation a reality. Remember to always stay safe, trust your intuition, relax and enjoy the road.

  • How to Reduce Helmet Wind Buffeting on a Motorcycle

    How to Reduce Helmet Wind Buffeting on a Motorcycle

    Reading Time: 7 minutesHave you ever been riding down the freeway on your motorcycle and you feel your head shaking around involuntarily? Like an invisible force is slapping your head from side to side, up and down, forward and back in a weird random pattern. You find it hard to focus and you tense your neck and shoulders to keep it under control and 15 minutes later you have a stiff neck and a splitting headache. You have been the victim of wind buffeting.

    What is Helmet Wind Buffeting? According to the Oxford Dictionary, buffeting is “The action of striking someone or something repeatedly and violently.” or,  “Irregular oscillation of part of an aircraft, caused by turbulence.” On a motorcycle, it is the turbulent wind flowing around the windshield, front fairings, and helmet that cause the buffeting.

    Wind buffeting is not the same as resistance. Wind resistance is the constant pressure of the wind blowing against the rider. The official definition is: “the forces that are in opposition to the relative motion of an object as it passes through the air”. Anyone who rides a naked motorcycle, a bike with no windshield, is familiar with wind resistance, and it is usually a constant force that the rider can adapt to. Buffeting is different.

    What Causes Helmet Wind Buffeting?

    Wind buffeting most often occurs on motorcycles with windshields or front fairings, and at freeway speeds. While the windshield pushes the oncoming wind away from the rider’s chest and shoulders, that wind begins to swirl around the edges and the inside of the windshield creating a vacuum, or airflow in the opposite direction. Wind can also flow up under the fairing and blow directly onto the rider’s chest or helmet. The air streams created in this vacuum are not consistent, so they and they can catch the edged of your helmet causing movement or vibration. Some riders who wear open face helmets and sunglasses have noticed that buffeting can go as far as shake their sunglasses while riding.

    Wind buffeting can also be cause by a side wind even if your helmet and windshield are perfectly adjusted to prevent it. A strong air flow from the side will break up when it hits you and your motorcycle. This can cause the air to swirl around your helmet causing vibration or unwanted, random movement. In face, on any noticeably windy day, you can expect to experience some buffeting.

    Sometimes riding with a passenger can break up the usual wind flow that you’re used to and cause the air to flow in a different pattern around your helmet. You or your passenger may experience the annoying affects of wind buffeting. So, it’s a problem that can’t be solved 100% of the time, but there are things you can do to reduce it.

    How to Reduce Wind Buffeting

    The first thing to look at is your windscreen. No matter what size you have on your motorcycle, if it’s not adjusted properly for your riding height, it can cause buffeting. If the wind coming off the windscreen and hitting the rider just under the helmet, the wind will catch the helmet and cause it to move around. So the key is to make sure the wind is passing over the top of the helmet, or, some on sport bikes, or motorcycles with small windscreens where the wind doesn’t go over the rider, the wind should hit below the helmet and across the rider’s shoulders.

    So, the trick is to adjust the height of your windshield, or purchase an aftermarket windshield that will move the wind up and over your helmet. If you don’t want to invest in a new windshield, you might want to consider a windscreen spoiler blade add on that bolts to your existing windshield.

    If your windshield height is adjusted properly and you still notice a problem, one solution is to provide some airflow just under the windshield. Having a small gap between the windscreen and the fairing will allow a slight amount of wind to flow up the inside of the windscreen reducing the vacuum that forms in that area. The amount of wind flowing through this gap is just enough to reduce the problem and not so strong that it blows agains the rider. Some touring motorcycles have the ability to adjust this gap on the fly or electronically to accommodate freeway riding. Another solution to adjusting this gap if you still notice buffeting, is to add spacers to the bolts that secure the windshield, providing a little more space under the windshield.

    Another common area where riders notice a problem is the wind flowing up from under the front fairing or under a larger windshield. This wind can flow up the riders chest and cause movement of the helmet. A common solution for this problem is to install lowers on each side of the motorcycle, just below the fairing. This will cause the wind to flow around the riders legs instead of upward. There are a wide variety of lowers made by the manufacturers, especially Harley Davidson. But, there are also a lot of aftermarket choices that are sure to work with your motorcycle and your riding set-up. Look up your motorcycle here on Twisted Throttle to see if they have a solution for your bike.

    The solution to wind buffeting doesn’t necessarily have to be installing a large windscreen. Often your helmet can be the culprit. As an example, my CB500x has a small windscreen that is not tall enough to move the wind up and over my head. It’s only tall enough to reduce the wind resistance against my chest and slightly on my shoulders. I used to have the windscreen in its upper most adjustment and ride with a dual sport helmet and had no wind buffeting. However, when I purchased a standard, full face helmet, I noticed more buffeting. The new helmet shape changed the way the wind flowed and caused an annoying amount of movement. My solution was to lower the windscreen slightly. This caused the wind to flow just below my helmet resulting in no more buffeting. If you have a similar situation, the key here is to purchase a good aerodynamic helmet that helps reduce wind noise and wind resistance making for a comfortable ride. Also, fun fact, adding a windshield to your motorcycle will help with wind buffeting too!.

    So, to sum it up, reduce wind buffeting by looking at your

    • Windshield height and how the air flows over the windshield
    • Add windscreen spoiler to help deflect the wind over your head
    • Add space for air flow under your windshield
    • Add lowers to each side under the windshield
    • Wear an aerodynamic helmet

    Related Questions

    How can I tell where the wind is coming from? To figure out where the wind is coming from can be a little tricky if you don’t have a wind tunnel, laboratory and a staff of specialists handy. But you can still get a good idea of where wind flow is coming from. Go out for a ride on a calm day and get your motorcycle up to freeway speed where the wind is most noticeable. With your hands, start feeling around for that point where the wind hits. Place your hand, fingers together, palm down, at the side of your tank and move it around slowly until you feel where the wind resistance is happening. Do the same at the top and the sides of your windscreen. This test will give you a good idea of where the problem is coming from.

    What’s the body position for riding in the wind? A cross wind, or wind coming from the side, is the type that causes the most problems for a rider, but in any case the best way to deal with excess wind is to create a lower rider profile. Lean over your tank and duck down as much as possible. Sometimes it’s nice to have a tank bag that you can lean on. In the case of a strong side wind, you will find yourself having to lean into the wind to keep your motorcycle upright and on a straight path. One way to reduce this is to create some drag on the same side as the wind by sticking out your knee. You’ll see professional Moto GP riders do this to slow themselves down just before a turn. Sticking out your knee helps reduce that sideways push that a side wind causes. Depending on how windy it is, it may not completely solve the problem, but it will help.

    How do I measure more windshield height? Sizing a windshield is a two person job and if a very simple, 5 minute procedure. With the rider sitting on the motorcycle, off the kickstand, the second person will measure the distance from the top of the headlight, or handlebars, to the riders nose. You want the rider to be able to look over the top of the windshield and not through it. It will still be tall enough to deflect the wind over the rider, but not so tall to interfere with the rider’s vision.

  • DIY Roadside Motorcycle Repairs (5 Common Repairs)

    DIY Roadside Motorcycle Repairs (5 Common Repairs)

    Reading Time: 12 minutes

    I admit to leaving the house on my motorcycle for a weekend trip without any repair items except a multi-tool. My motorcycle is fairly new, I keep it well maintained and I have confidence it will perform well on my rides. But, I realize that when I’m out on the road, anything can happen. That unforeseen breakdown could happen at any moment. So, I decided to research some potential breakdowns and learn how to fix them. I know there are plenty more miss-haps that can happen and there are more serious breakdowns, but, these are just a few that, if one if prepared, can be fixed on the roadside and you can be on your way.

    1. Loose Chain

    If your motorcycle has a belt or shaft drive then this wouldn’t apply to you. If your drive system breaks down it’s likely a lot more serious. But chains stretch over time and they need regular lubrication. I was once reminded of this when I took a weekend camping trip to the Northern California coast. On my way home I notice a squeaky rattling noise. At my next stop I looked at my chain and it was bone dry and extremely loose. Unfortunately I didn’t have anything in my kit to lubricate it or adjust it. So, it home, about 100 miles and fixed it up there.

    So, what should you do if your chain is dangerously out of adjustment when you’re on a long trip? Below are the steps, tools and products you will need to clean, lube and adjust your chain on the roadside. These are general guidelines as the tools and steps may be specific to your motorcycle.

    • You will need the following:
      • A wrench that fits the rear axle bolt
      • A smaller wrench that fits the adjustment bolt
      • Small can of chain cleaner
      • Small can of chain lube
      • A Rag
      • Know your motorcycle’s recommended chain slack, found in the owner’s manual

    It’s easier to do this adjustment if your bike is on a stand, but, if you don’t have a center stand, or a Snap Jack, it’s still possible to make this adjustment with the rear wheel on the ground.  Proper chain slack is generally between 1 to 1 1/2 inches but check your owner’s manual to be sure.

    • Steps
      • Clean the chain. While you won’t be able to do a thorough cleaning on the side of the road, you can at least get most of the dirt and grime off with a small canister of chain cleaner and a rag. Consider packing an old toothbrush too.
      • Loosen the rear axle bolt a couple of turns. It does not have to be very loose. Some bikes will have a cotter pin through the axel bolt. This should be removed and replaced with a new one if possible. If you don’t have a new one, don’t lose or break the one you have.
      • Most bikes will have an adjustment nut at the rear of the swing arm on each side and some will have two. If there are two, loosen the outer nut a few turns, then turn the inner nut clockwise a half turn at a time. This will pull the chain tighter. Always repeat the adjustment on the other side, equally.
      • Check the chain slack and repeat the turn by turn adjustment until the chain is properly tightened. Again, be sure to turn the adjustment bolts equally on both sides of the rear wheel.
      • Once the chain is at the correct tension, tighten down the rear axle bolt. Replace the cotter pin.
      • Final step, lube the chain. If your bike is not on a stand, then you will have to lube the chain in sections and roll the bike as you go.

    2. Broken Hose

    A cracked or broken hose can affect a motorcycle in a lot of different ways depending on what hose is broken. Hoses will commonly break or form a crack at the connection point. If this is the case, you can often trim off the hose at the crack, fit it back on and clamp it down again. Carry extra hose camps with you in case one breaks.
    If you have a crack in a hose or in the fuel line, you can use silicone self fusing repair tape around the hole or crack. This type of tape sticks to itself when it is stretched and doesn’t rely on adhesives which can loose it’s ability to stick if it gets wet. When applying the tape, stretch it tight as you wrap to get a good seal. You can reinforce the repair by placing a few zip ties around the tape to prevent it from unwinding.

    A taped up hose is a temporary repair in most cases. Hopefully it will be enough to get you going again so you can ride to the nearest town for a permanent fix. So, remember to keep a few hose repair supplies in your tool kit especially if you are on a long trip in remote locations.

    3. Broken Clutch Cable

    A sudden broken clutch cable can leave you stranded on the side of the road. While it is possible to shift gears without a clutch in some circumstance, and you may be able to limp your way to the nearest town in second gear, replacing your clutch cable on the roadside is really the best option if this ever happens to you. It’s a relatively simple repair.

    A spare clutch cable specific to your motorcycle is one of my recommended repair items to take on long distance motorcycle trips. The repair usually only requires one tool: a 10mm or 12mm open end wrench which should always be included in your on board tool kit.

    The trickiest part of this repair is figuring out where the cable line threads through the motorcycle, and you may have to remove some side panels to see the path. So, when removing the old cable, pay close attention to where it goes.

    • At the clutch lever, loosen the perch adjuster and move it all the way towards the cable to loosen the cable, and remove the cable from the clutch lever.
    • At the clutch end on the engine, loosen the adjustment nuts and remove the cable from the clutch bracket.
    • Take the new cable and squirt some lube down one end until a little bit drips out the other end. A small bottle of all purpose lubricant should be part of your on board tool kit.
    • String the new cable through the same path as the old cable. HACK: Don’t remove the old cable until you’re ready to install the new cable. String it through as you slide the old one out.
    • Attach the cable to the clutch lever first and secure it to the perch adjuster, leaving the cable loose.
    • Attache the other end of the cable to the engine side and tighten the adjustment nuts until the majority of the free play has been removed.
    • Do the fine adjustments at the clutch lever to remove any excess free play. Check your owner’s manual for the recommended amount of free play for your motorcycle. If you don’t get this adjustment spot on while on the road side, don’t worry, it’s ok to estimate.
    • After you set the free play, tighten the nuts at the engine side until they are secure. Then, tighten the adjustment screw on the perch adjuster.

    Before you put all your tools away, make sure the new cable is secured with all the necessary cable stays or zip ties. Turn your handlebars all the way to the left and right to check for any interference. Lastly, start the motorcycle and check the clutch engagement to make sure it’s in the right spot. Make any minor adjustment if necessary, and you’re ready to get back on the road.

    4. Broken Shifter Lever

    On many motorcycles the shifter lever is in a vulnerable location and can be broken if the motorcycle is tipped over, dropped, or crashed on its left side. Sometimes you can get yourself up and running with a generous amount of duct tape wrapped around the joint of the shifter arm and the toe lever. But, this repair is not going to last and can create a frustrating riding experience. So, your best bet is to do a quick roadside replacement of the shifter lever.

    This is probably one of the easier roadside repairs as it only needs a few tools and a replacement part. Make sure you carry a spare lever that fits your specific motorcycle. The tools needed will depend on your motorcycle but are often just a couple of hex key wrenches and small open ended wrenches, or you could use an adjustable wrench. In most cases you won’t have to remove any side panels or covers to access the lever and its attachment bolts.

    Some bikes also have a rocker arm that should be inspected to make sure it isn’t bent or cracked. Often, even if there is a slight bend to the rocker arm, your shifter will still function properly and this can be repaired later on. Also, on some bikes, the end of the shifter lever may be attached to the foot peg bracket and you may need to remove that bracket to replace the lever.

    5. Burned Out Headlight or Tail Light

    The first step is to know what kind of bulbs your motorcycle requires and keep replacement bulbs in your on-board repair or tool kit. A lot of bikes, especially naked bikes or cruisers, use a standard H4 or H7 bulb that can be found at any auto parts store. Tail lights and turn signal light bulbs are much smaller and you should check your owners manual to find out exactly which bulbs to purchase for your kit.

    Pro Tip: Avoid touching the glass portion of the bulb. Oils on your hands can create hot spots which will cause the bulb to burn hotter, reducing the life of the bulb.

    It is much easier to replace a headlight bulb on a naked bike. Motorcycles with round, exposed headlights are by far the easiest but the exact procedure will depend on your make and model.

    • Start by removing the headlight lens using the required wrench for your bike.
    • Remove the connector from the back of the bulb. This will free up the headlight making it easier to work with.
    • Remove the rubber cover on the back of the lens. This protects the inside of your headlight from dust and moisture.
    • Remove the secure spring from the back of the bulb. You may have to loosen one of the small screws, but do not remove them completely.
    • Remove the bulb and inspect it to make sure it is blown. A burned out bulb will look a little brown and the filament inside will be broken. If it’s not, if the bulb looks good, then you may have a deeper problem, such as a bad fuse.
    • Replace the bulb with a new one. Line up the spacers on the bulb with the notches on the housing. It will only fit one way.
    • Plug in the connector.
    • Reverse each removal procedure and secure your headlight lens back on the motorcycle.

    Replacing the headlight bulb on a motorcycle with plastics is a bit more tedious, but you don’t always have to remove the covers to access the bulb. This, of course will depend on your make and model. Sometimes you will have access to the bulb by reaching down under the dash. But, on many bikes you will have to remove some covers, and possibly the entire dash, to access the bulb. You will follow the same procedures outlined above for removal and replacement of the bulb.

    Tips for Successful Roadside Repairs

    Keep track of your screws! If you’re on the side of the road you’re likely working on dirt, gravel or a grass surface. Dropping a screw or nut is a real pain in the neck and will be hard to find. So, get out some kind of container that you can keep all the screws, nuts, washers, clips and whatever bits and pieces you need to remove to make your repair. Use a removed cover as a tray, or get out a cup or bowl from your gear. And, whatever you do, don’t kick over the screw tray! Not that it’s ever happened to me.

    Be safe! Make sure you push your bike completely out of the roadway before you start making your repair especially if you are on a busy road. Having traffic zoom past you while you are kneeling down, preoccupied by your repair task, can make for a dangerous situation. Curious drivers often become fixated on what’s happening on the roadside which can cause them to swerve dangerously close. So, if you can pull into a parking lot, or stop at a pull out, rest stop or vista point, then you will be in a much safer place to do your motorcycle repairs.

    If you’re alone, especially for us women, accept the assistance of strangers only if you feel safe. Trust your intuition on this one. Most people who offer to help you out have nothing but good intentions, so you shouldn’t pass up the kindness of a stranger out of fear. In my experience, 99% of people are good and kind hearted. Your gut will tell you when to say thanks, but no thanks.

    It’s important to check if you need an oil change. Oil filters should also be replaced with every oil change. You can also do it by yourself. Install a new oil filter after the oil has been drained, then refill the engine with the right kind and quantity of motorcycle oil, as directed in the owner’s manual, using a funnel.

    Changing an air filter is essential. The performance of your motorcycle will suffer if the air filter, which keeps particles out of the engine, is dirty and clogged. Although it’s not always difficult, changing an air filter can take some time. While the gas tank and other components might need to be removed in order to access the air filter, this is not always the case. The air filter should be removed and replaced once you’ve entered the air box. Then put back everything you took out.

    Also, you may need to bleed your brakes out if they feel squishy. It’s quite easier to do on a bike than in a car. On a bike, the bleeder screw and brake levers should be easily accessible. Once you get to the brake levers and the bleeder screw, you can just bleed the brakes, which should make everything feel better.

    In any case, being prepared before you leave for your trip will help you get out of a tight spot, fix common problems on the road side, and get back on the road before you know it.

  • Tips To Rent a Motorcycle In The USA

    Tips To Rent a Motorcycle In The USA

    Reading Time: 15 minutes

    Have you ever planned a vacation to a beautiful destination and wish you could bring your motorcycle with you? Have you ever wanted to test ride a motorcycle for an entire day but dealers aren’t even willing to let you take it around the block? Are you planning on visiting the United States and want to see the country on two wheels? Renting a motorcycle could be your solution.

    In this post, I’ll talk about how to rent a motorcycle and everything that’s involved in doing so. I’ll try to answer all your questions like, what’s required to rent, how much does it cost, insurance, safety, where to rent, and anything else in between.

    Requirements for Renting

    Renting a motorcycle is similar to renting a car meaning that they don’t let just anyone jump in and drive off; you have to meet certain requirements. The most obvious requirement is a license and a credit card (any major credit card will do). Like car rental companies, motorcycle rentals require that you carry a valid driver’s license with an M1 rating, or motorcycle rating, that is recognized in the state you reside.  Unfortunately, a learner’s permit won’t cut it and will not be accepted by any rental company.

    If you are from a country outside the US, any motorcycle license that is recognized in your home country will be valid when renting. However, if your license is written in a language other than English, you should consider getting an IDP (international driver’s permit). This will eliminate any confusion or language barriers in the case of an accident or any encounter with law enforcement.

    Most motorcycle rental companies will have age limits and you must be at least 21 years old to rent. Of course if you were to rent a motorcycle in other countries this age would change. Some companies have raised this to 25 years old. Often, if you are younger than 21, you can rent a scooter, moped, or another small engine vehicle as long as you are over 18. The reason for this is to ensure that the renter has at least a few years of riding experience or maturity.

    Insurance Requirements

    The minimum insurance coverage for motorcycle rentals is liability insurance with a minimum amount of coverage and this may vary depending on the state in which you are renting. It is required by law. However, your own liability insurance that you have at home for your own motorcycle does not meet this requirement. Rental insurance is different and separate. Basic liability insurance is usually provided by the rental company and is included in the daily cost. This liability insurance will cover you if you cause an accident that results in injury or property damage to someone else.

    While liability insurance is the minimum amount of coverage required, there is always a way to increase your coverage if you want. Some companies will charge a daily rate for supplemental liability insurance. This will increase the amount of coverage in the case of an accident. For example, if the basic liability insurance covers up to $15,000, then the supplemental insurance will cover up to $30,000, or $50,000 depending on which plan you choose.

    Comprehensive insurance is also an add-on cost charged on a daily basis. This type of coverage will be in addition to the liability insurance and will cover you in the case of theft or damage to the motorcycle. For example, if the motorcycle turns up missing when you walk out of your hotel, this insurance will cover the cost of that theft. If the motorcycle is damaged by something other than your negligence; i.e. hit by a car, knocked over by someone, dented from a flying golf ball, smashed headlight from an angry, jealous bar patron after you hit on his girl, those damages will be covered by the comprehensive insurance.

    Often you can bump up your insurance coverage again to include loss or damage to your personal property. With this upgrade, you will be covered if someone breaks into your saddlebags or luggage and steals your personal belongings.

    Be aware that with any type of insurance coverage, there may be a deductible of anywhere from $500 to $5,000. So, even if the damage is covered, or even if the theft of the motorcycle is covered, you will be responsible for paying the deductible.

    It’s extremely important to read the fine print when dealing with insurance coverage. And, if you’re not on a super tight budget, it may very well be worth the cost to get the full coverage available so you can rent and ride without worrying about any of that. Paying a little extra per day would be better than buying the company a new motorcycle. Consider it based on the deductible amount, how long you’re renting, where you’re riding (although anything can happen anywhere).

    How Much Does it Cost?

    The cost of renting a motorcycle will vary depending on what type of motorcycle you rent. Smaller bikes tend to be cheaper while the big bore bikes and fully loaded cruisers will cost more. But, in general, you can expect to pay at least $125 per day for a small bike, and up to $300 or more for a big touring motorcycle. Select the bike that not only fits your budget but fits your riding ability. Some rental companies will offer discounts for military or law enforcement or if you are a member of an auto club such as AAA. And if you’re an old fart, over 55 or 60, they may have senior discounts. Check with the company to see if any apply to you.

    Security deposits are often required and are placed on a credit card when you rent the motorcycle. If all goes well, the security deposit will be refunded to you after the bike is returned. Depending on what kind of insurance coverage you choose, the security deposit can be as much as $5,000 and that amount MUST be available on the credit card used for the deposit. So, if they charge $3,000 for your deposit, but your card limit is only $2500, that card won’t be valid. So, be ready to have that credit available at the time of renting.

    Another common cost that people don’t always consider is the cancellation fee and late charges. Cancellation fees can be anywhere from 30% to 60% of the rental cost and some companies require cancellations 30 days in advance. So, cancel within a month of your trip or else you could be paying hundreds of dollars for not renting the motorcycle. This policy will be different for each rental company so before renting, make sure you understand it completely.

    Late fees are another cost that can surprise the renter. Most rentals are made on a 24-hour basis and if you rent a bike for 2 days, you will likely be required to return it at the end of the second day. In addition, you may have to return the bike during business hours so this may limit your return time. Always make sure you not only understand how many days your renting, but ask the company exactly what day and time the late fees will begin to incur. You’ll want to know this because late fees can be as expensive as $25 per hour. Yes, per hour.

    One last fee that some people don’t always expect is a surcharge. This is an extra daily charge if the motorcycle is rented during a special event such as a motorcycle rally or gathering. This is similar to what hotels do on holiday weekends, they increase the rates when they know their product is in high demand. So, if you’re renting to go to Sturgis, be ready for a surcharge.

    What’s Provided?

    When you get a motorcycle rental, the company is required to provide you with the motorcycle and one helmet. Of course, you can always use your own helmet if you prefer, but if you don’t have one, they are required to provide it. Also, even though some stated in the US do not have helmet laws, you may still be required to wear a helmet while operating the rental motorcycle, this is for insurance purposes. If you require a second helmet for a passenger, the rental company should have them available for a reasonable daily fee, like $10.

    Rental companies may also have riding gear, jackets, pants, leathers, and possibly gloves or boots that you can rent for a daily fee. The availability of these items will vary with each company. It’s also a good idea to ask if they recommend any local roads or routes that are fun on the motorcycle and they may provide route maps of nearby roads, so it’s a good idea to inquire about that. Motorcycle rentals are easily available for motorcycle riders. Rental motorcycles are easy to find with valid motorcycle endorsement. Motorcycle enthusiasts keep a track of great bike like a Harley Davidson and others that are available for rent. Eaglerider locations are the best spot for motorcycle riders to get rentals. The rental rates are usually non refundable and the rents are usually location or tours contract.

    The rental company should also provide you with an orientation of the motorcycle you’re renting. It’s important that you are familiar with the location of things like the gas tank (don’t laugh, sometimes it’s under the seat), turn signals, horn, ignition, kill switch, fuel switch if it has one, etc. It’s important that you feel confident and comfortable on the bike before you ride off, so, even if it’s not a required part of the inspection, take the motorcycle for a quick spin around the parking lot or block before you leave and ask questions if you have them.

    Limits and Restrictions

    Each rental company will have its own set of restrictions and limitations so it’s important to read the rental agreement to understand exactly what they are. Here are some restrictions you can expect.

    If you’re renting within the United States you will likely be required to stay within the US border. You will not be allowed to ride into Mexico or Canada unless you have made special arrangements with the rental company to do so.

    You will likely be restricted to riding on certain roads depending on what kind of motorcycle you rent. For instance, if you rent a street bike, you will not be allowed to ride that bike on unpaved roads, fire roads, gravel roads, on sand, or on any unauthorized road. Again, it’s up to the rental company to determine exactly what this means. Often, any supplemental insurance that you purchase will be void if you ride in a restricted area.

    Also, be aware of any mileage limits. Often you can purchase a rental plan that includes unlimited mileage, but make sure you are aware of any limitations before you sign the rental agreement. Some companies may go as far as to have you file a basic itinerary, but this may not be too common.

    What’s Expected of You, the Renter?

    You, as a renter, are expected to properly maintain the motorcycle while it is in your possession. While a good motorcycle rental company will make sure the bike is maintained and ready to go when you rent it, you are responsible for keeping it fueled up, keeping the chain lubed if you ride more than 1,000 miles, keeping the tires at optimal pressure, checking the oil level and other fluid levels daily before you ride. These are topics that should be covered in your orientation so there is no confusion regarding your responsibility and how to do these simple maintenance tasks.

    You are also expected to follow traffic laws for each state in which you ride. This includes speed limits, parking, curb colors, crosswalks, pedestrian right-of-way, left-hand turn lanes, and those pesky left-turn green lights where you have to wait for oncoming traffic. Whatever the rules are, you’re expected to know and follow them.

    On a side note, lane splitting is legal in only one state: California. Also on a side note, if you are visiting from outside the US, make sure you are familiar with how to pump gas in the states. It’s easy to get confused with different types of fuel such as diesel or ethanol.

    3-Wheeled Motorcycles

    If you are interested in renting a three-wheeled motorcycle such as a trike, Can-Am Spyder, or a Polaris SlingShot, you will run into different requirements as far as licensing goes. But, the good news is, that in some states, you may not need a motorcycle license at all.

    To ride a basic trike style motorcycle, such as the Harley Davidson Freewheeler or Tri-Glide you will need a motorcycle license, or a 3-Wheel vehicle license in most states, if not all of them. If you have a motorcycle license, you’re good to go. If you don’t, then you will need a 3-Wheel license. You won’t be able to rent one with a basic automobile driver’s license.

    Riding a Can-Am Spyder requires the same licensing as above unless you’re in California. In the state of California, it is legal to ride a Spyder-type vehicle with only a basic automobile driver’s license. It is the only state that allows this (as of 2018).

    The Polaris SlingShot has much more lenient requirements, probably because the vehicle closely resembles a car rather than a motorcycle and is controlled with a steering wheel instead of handlebars. Therefore, to drive the SlingShot, you only need a basic automobile driver’s license in most states. But, the states of Montana, Wisconsin, Maine, New York, and Massachusetts require that you have your motorcycle license to drive one.

    Not all motorcycle rental companies will rent 3-wheeled vehicles and you may have to seek out a dealership to inquire about rentals. In any case, you will likely be required to wear the same safety equipment as when riding a motorcycle, such as a helmet and proper riding gear.

    Peer-to-Peer Motorcycle Rental

    There is a new way to rent motorcycles that are gaining more popularity and that’s peer-to-peer motorcycle rentals. Think Air B-n-B for your bike. Companies such as twistedroad.com or riders-share.com provide platforms where people can list their own motorcycles for rent. You, as the renter, can search for an available bike in your area, communicate with the owner and make the rental arrangements.

    There are several benefits to this type of ride-sharing or motorcycle sharing. First of all, the rental prices are much lower than rental companies and they are set by the owner of the motorcycle. Second, you will likely have a much wider variety of motorcycles to choose from and you may even be able to rent a vintage bike or custom motorcycle.

    Payments and insurance are provided by the rental platform which takes that hassle out of the equation. Keep in mind that companies like riders-share.com will have stricter requirements than a basic rental company. For instance, renters must be at least 25 years old, have a minimum of 3 year’s riding experience, and renters must meet a list of criteria regarding traffic violations, DUI records and felony charges. So, if you consider renting from a peer-to-peer company, be sure to read their rental policies to make sure you meet those important criteria.

    Can I Rent a Motorcycle for a Track Day?

    If you’re interested in riding a motorcycle on the race track, (which by the way is one of the funniest things you could ever do as a rider) and you need to rent a ride, you will have to rent from a company that provides motorcycle specifically for the track. I can’t imagine any average motorcycle rental company that would allow you to ride one of their rentals on a race track due to the risk of crashing.

    Track Day Providers are companies that purchase the use of a race track for the day to allow amateur riders to learn how to ride the track and how to race their bikes. The organizers offer coaching, instruction, emergency medical services, mechanical services, and everything else to allow you, the average rider, the rip around the track on your motorcycle as fast as you can (for a price). Often these companies will provide motorcycles for rent. These bikes are specifically set up to be safe on the track. They are stripped down, safety wired, and have no lights or rearview mirrors.

    These rentals will often come with extras, not just bikes. The rental package may come with a set of race tires, tire warmers, pit services as well as coaching and instruction. So, if you want to do a track day, but don’t want to ride your own motorcycle, a rental through one of the companies might be the way to go.

    Related Questions

    How far in advance should I book a motorcycle rental? 

    This will depend greatly on the rental company that you choose, but keep in mind that it would be best to make a reservation several months in advance especially if you are riding in a popular location or for a rally or event. But, if you get a wild hair, there’s always a chance of last-minute availability, but that would be hit or miss.

    What if I get in an accident while renting a motorcycle?

    If you’re in an accident, follow the normal procedures in getting medical or emergency assistance if someone is injured. You will likely be required to notify the rental company as soon as you are able. Most rental companies will provide you with an emergency phone number to call for assistance in the case of an accident.

    What if my rented motorcycle breaks down? 

    Most motorcycle rental companies will provide a phone number for roadside assistance. Some rental companies will have special insurance for vacation interruptions. In these cases, depending on the coverage, the rental company may pay for your transportation or lodging. In the case of peer-to-peer rentals, you must notify the owner of the motorcycle immediately if the motorcycle breaks down or if you are involved in a traffic accident.

    Can I rent a 250cc motorcycle on a car Licence?

    Licensing requirements for motorcycle rentals follow the law of the land. So, if you have a car license, any motorcycle with a displacement greater than 150cc will likely require a motorcycle license.

    At what age can I get a motorcycle rental?

    For most motorcycle rentals you will need to be 21 years old. There are some rental companies that offer rentals for people under 21, but they will require you to show proof of having taken a motorcycle safety course or motorcycle riding training.

    How can I lease a motorcycle with no credit?

    To lease a motorcycle without credit can be difficult, but not impossible. First, you would need to go through a private owner or small dealership. Many of the larger dealerships require that you have an established credit history before you can sign a motorcycle purchase agreement.

    Do I need a motorcycle endorsement to rent a motorcycle?

    In general, a valid motorcycle license or a motorcycle endorsement on a car license is required. In some cases, you may be able to rent from one of the companies that provide rentals for those under 21 years old with proof of training or course completion.

    Do I need insurance for rental motorcycles?

    In most cases, you will need to provide proof of insurance or a guarantee of insurance from your personal insurer. In some states, the rental company may be able to get you an exemption from coverage if they have their own insurance policy on file for riders who have taken a safety course or training class.

  • How to Measure Your Motorcycle Saddlebag Fitting Accuracy

    How to Measure Your Motorcycle Saddlebag Fitting Accuracy

    Reading Time: 12 minutes

    So, you’re looking for some saddle bags to install on your motorcycle, but with hundreds of options to choose from, how are you going to decide which to buy? There are so many things to consider such as, what type of motorcycle you ride, how much carrying capacity do you need, and whether or not you’ll be carrying a passenger. Even more important, how do you know they will fit your bike? In this article, we’ll talk about how to measure your bike for bags and other obstacles that should be addressed before you invest in saddle bags.

    Some common motorcycle saddlebag options include soft saddlebags, lockable saddlebags, leather bags, hard bags, rear tire mounting hardware and other components.

    Different motorcycle styles require different types of saddle bags, so we can’t just make a sweeping claim that if you measure from A to B, then buy this style or that style. Instead, let’s approach this based on motorcycle type: sport bike vs. cruiser vs. standard, exhaust placement, rear shock style, seat style, etc. My goal for this article is to help you determine what type of throw-over hard bags to purchase without having to install a mounting system, brackets or stays. While this may not be possible on every bike in every travel situation, there are plenty of saddlebags that will fit your needs without spending more money on a complicated mounting system.

    Sport Bikes

    Leather Motorcycle Saddlebags

    The rear end of a sports bike is usually very minimal and leaves the rear wheel somewhat exposed. The most common problem with saddle bags on a sports bike is preventing them from folding under, or sagging, thereby getting caught up in the rear wheel. Buying a set that is too large contributes to this problem. So, here are some things to consider and where you should measure.

    To determine what size you should buy, measurements should be taken from the front of the rear turn signal to the back of the rider’s seat. Some sport bikes have rider’s seats that are separate from the passenger seat or cowl cover. But other sports bikes have a one-piece seat. In this case, find the point in the seat that transitions to the passenger portion and use that for your measurement point. Also, if you will be carrying a passenger, you will need to measure that width from the turn indicator light to the rear of the passenger foot peg. Honestly, the way rear pegs are set on a sports bike doesn’t leave much room for saddle bags and your passenger’s boots. If you plan to do two up trips on your sport bike often, I’d consider a sport touring motorcycle instead, for your passenger’s sake. A happy passenger is a happy rider. Back to the measurements.

    The second measurement should be taken on the side of the exhaust pipe since the pipe placement is going to determine how tall your bags can be. measure from the top of the seat, down to two inches from the pipe. You want to keep the bottom of the bag a minimum of 1 inch away from a hot pipe, and 2 inches is ideal. Sportbike saddle bags are tear drop shaped so they fit the angles of the sloping exhaust. The narrow end of the bag should go towards the rear giving the pipe more room. This is not the case with every sports bike, but, in general, this is the case.

    One last measurement to consider is the bike’s rear width, not just the rear seat width, but the width of the plastics or grab bars as well. You want to know the measurement at its widest point. This measurement will determine the maximum width between the bags.

    Now that you have the measurements, you need to transfer those measurements to a set of throw-over bags. On a sports bike, the saddle bags need to sit up high so they don’t sag down and under the rear of the bike. So use that width measurement to make sure the bags can be adjusted to accommodate that maximum width. With the bags sitting up high, you can incorporate the height measurement to make sure they are clear of your pipes. Lastly, check the length to make sure the bag will fit without interfering with the rear turn indicators, or with your riding position, or your passenger’s ability to use the foot pegs.

    If you need a larger set of bags than what’s available without hardware, you may have to consider installing some kind of stay brackets to support larger bags and prevent them from sagging into the rear wheel. Check to see what’s available from your bike manufacturer or from the bag manufacturer as many will have bike-specific brackets and stays. If you need something with brackets, I highly recommend the SW-Motech Blaze saddlebag system. It’s great for smaller bikes and the mounting brackets are easily removable and don’t spoil the lines of your sports bike.

    One more consideration with a sports bike is a tail-ed exhaust. This presents a set of problems that you’ll have to consider. Depending on the placement of your exhaust, you may have to consider bags with some kind of heat-resistant layer on the exterior portion that comes close to the pipes. Also, this will determine how you will secure the bags. Under tail exhaust prevents you from running a strap under the seat, so you will have to consider how your bags will stay secure on your specific motorcycle.

    Cruisers

    Motorcycle Universal Saddlebags

    If you ride a cruiser, your choices greatly increase, which could make your job of choosing a bag system a lot more confusing. But let’s start with the measurements to eliminate bags that won’t fit your bike. The measurements will be very similar to the sports bike measurements but there are a couple of things to determine before you take measurements.

    Will you be carrying a passenger? If so, you need to determine how much room your passenger will need for their boot on the rear foot peg. Your length should be measured from that point to the front of the rear turn indicator light. This will be the maximum length of the bag you choose.

    Another factor is the placement of your rear shock. If you have an internal mono-shock, then you don’t have to worry about it, however, if you have exposed rear shocks, you need to measure from the top of the rear shock to the turn indicator light. Also, you will need to select an angled bag that will leave room for, and sit behind the shock.

    For the bag’s height, measure from the top of the rear seat, down to two inches above the exhaust pipes. This will be the maximum height of the bags you choose.

    If throw-over saddle bags simply won’t work for your needs, then check to see what kind of mounting hardware your motorcycle already has. Many cruisers are manufactured with the perfect place to easily mount brackets. Consider the quick release, or quick removal mounting system. This system consists of a couple of mounting bolts on your motorcycle, a set of bags with a hard exterior and mounting holes that fit on the mounting bolts. They are easy to remove when you get to your destination, and they have the convenience of a lock to keep them secure from theft. Also, if you want to go sporty, you can leave the bags at home and you still retain the sporty look of your motorcycle; no bulky, unsightly brackets.

    Standard Retro-Style Motorcycles

    Lockable Saddlebags

    There is some speculation out there as to what a standard motorcycle is. For the sake of this article, a standard motorcycle is one in which the rider is in an upright position, handlebars at a comfortable level, and feet in a neutral sitting position on the pegs. Think of something like the Triumph Bonneville, Ducati Scrambler, or the BMW 1200R.

    The same basic measurements will apply as well as the same considerations for external rear shocks, location of the exhaust pipes, rear turn signals, and passenger foot pegs. Retro-style motorcycles often have external rear shocks and a saddle bag thrown over the seat can interfere with those spring shocks or wear out your bags faster than usual. This may limit your selection of saddlebags that will fit with those measurement constraints and you might consider bags that sit up high. If this doesn’t work, you’re more likely to have to find a mounting system that will keep the bags away from the shocks. However, that doesn’t mean you have to install big, ugly, bulky brackets. All you need is something to give the bag support and keep it away from the shocks and wheels. Triumph makes simple brackets for many of their retro-style models and SW-Motech also makes removable brackets for many of these bikes.

    Some of the newer standard-style motorcycles have rear ends that look a lot like sport bikes, for example, the Yamaha FZ9, Yamaha XSR900, or the Triumph Street Triple. For these bikes, you could consider the same style of bags that would fit on a sports bike. Again, measure the length from the rear turn signal to the back of the rider seat; the height from the top of the rear seat to two inches from the exhaust; and the width at the widest part of the rear seat, including fender and/or grab bars.  One of the most important things to look out for is how the bag hangs and if it is at risk of rubbing against the rear wheel.

    Modifications

    On any style bike, there are a number of modifications that you can make to your motorcycle to accommodate a set of throw-over saddle bags. First, consider a rear turn signal relocation kit. Often bag manufacturers will provide a kit so that a certain type of saddle bag will fit with your bike. A good kit should come with everything you need to relocate your existing stock turn signals.

    There is a wide variety of after-market, low-profile turn signals available. LED light technology provides a brighter, longer-lasting light in smaller sizes than conventional motorcycle turn signals. They can be mounted in a variety of locations or can be integrated into the tail light, eliminating external turn signals completely. Installing these modifications will require some mechanical know-how, and some re-wiring, but who doesn’t love a good Sunday morning project anyway. Installation instructions will most likely come with the turn signals that fit with your motorcycle, and YouTube is a great resource for installation instructions.

    If you find your bags sitting dangerously close to your exhaust pipe, and this can happen more often with under tail exhausts, you could consider installing a heat shield to the portion of the bags that sit close to the pipes. Thermaflect Tape, or heat shield tape, provides a layer that will reflect most of the heat away from your bags. However, for the tape to be effective, it needs to have at least 1-inch clearance from the heat source to provide sufficient airflow to keep the tape from overheating. So, this will not protect your bag if it is actually touching the exhaust. Frankly, if it is touching, you need to adjust the bag’s installation or use a bracket.

    Another modification to consider when using throw-over saddle bags is something to protect your paint from scratches. Often a bag system will sit directly on rear fenders or side plastics and, over time, the bags will scratch the paint. Many bag manufacturers provide a thin, clear plastic barrier that sticks directly to the bike. If you’re not comfortable putting this sticker permanently on your bike, like me, then consider a saddle bag system that includes an extra soft barrier to place under the yoke to protect the paint. For a DYI fix, a clean, soft towel under the yoke will do the trick.

    If you’re riding a cruiser and you spend your hard-earned money on easy lock bags, some have found that the OEM mounting bolts aren’t perfectly designed. In some instances, the bags may not sit in the ideal spot, and you’ll figure this out as you ride with loaded bags. If you find that your bags should sit farther away from the back of the motorcycle, you can install spacers to the mounting bolts. Sometimes it can be as little as a couple of washers, other times it may require 1/2 inch or more. This is a simple DIY fix and washers and spacers can be found at any hardware store.

    Often times a rider simply isn’t happy with the mounting brackets or stays that a bag or bike manufacturer provides, or the chosen bag system simply doesn’t come with mounting brackets. In this case, a lot of riders will design and build their own custom mounting brackets. The perfect excuse to spend time in the garage and break out those metal working tools. This gives you all the freedom in the world to build the perfect, removable brackets that will give you the option to go sporty when the bags are not in use, and then convert to a touring bike when you’re ready.

    So, as you can see there are a lot of things to consider when selecting a set of throw-over saddlebags and with all the choices out there you can easily get overwhelmed. So, start with the measurements first to eliminate the ones that won’t fit. Then pick your style and storage capacity. After that, you can determine if any modifications need to be made. Lastly, after your first trip with your saddlebags, you’ll get a good idea of ways you can improve the fit, where they can be tightened, and how they should be tied down to prevent wiggle or slipping. Also look for any unusual wear that might indicate they are rubbing on the wheel or sitting too close to the exhaust, then make adjustments as needed.

    I hope this quick article has helped you determine what kind of saddlebags to buy for your motorcycle. Riding on a trip without having to worry about your gear makes for a much nicer, stress-free journey.

    Conclusion

    Soft saddlebags are great riding gear for short motorcycle trips. The storage space for motorcycle saddlebags varies. You can get all types of motorcycle saddlebags and other motorcycle luggage Mon-Fri on all motorcycle shop outlets or online.

  • How To Perform Motorcycle Shifting Without Clutch

    How To Perform Motorcycle Shifting Without Clutch

    Reading Time: 7 minutes

    I recently wrote an article on this website about how to replace a broken clutch cable on the roadside, and how to be prepared if you ever find yourself stranded without a clutch. Then I began to wonder if you would be completely stranded, or if you could somehow ride without using a clutch. So I did a little research and here’s what I found out.

    So, can you shift gears on a motorcycle without using the clutch? Yes, you can. Motorcycle shifting without clutch is a technique used by many riders who want to minimize the time wasted between gears. It’s often used by riders who race motorcycles or those who want smoother, faster shifting. When done properly, it does no damage to your motorcycle’s transmission. However, the technique doesn’t work as well when downshifting, when shifting from first to second, or with certain types of motorcycles.

    For clutchless shifting to the next gear, the shift lever can be used. The clutch lever does not have to be used for changing from first to second gear. A clutchless shift uses the gear teeth for engine braking. A functional clutch lever is exactly what you need for shifting gear. All the gears on a motorcycle can still work if the clutch cable snapped. To shift positions to second gear, use the clutch for a transmission slide.

    How to Shift Without the Clutch

    motorcycle clutch

    Clutchless shifting has everything to do with timing. There are only a couple of steps involved and with a little practice, you’ll become more and more smooth at it. Anytime there is load on the transmission, it’s not going to want to shift gears, so the trick is to eliminate that load on the gear sprockets. Once the load is gone, you can shift. Here’s how.

    When you’re ready to shift, place your toe under the shifter lever and apply a slight amount of pressure. Not so much that it tries to shift gears; just take the slack out. Next, you will quickly roll off the throttle. When the throttle is all the way off, this will take pressure off the gear sprockets and allow your bike to shift into the next gear. The pressure you’re putting on the lever should be enough to make it shift. Lastly, roll back on the throttle and go.

    Keep in mind that these steps take place in less than a second. Apply pressure to the lever, roll off the throttle, up shift, go. With a little bit of practice, you’ll begin to feel that sweet spot, and your foot will know exactly when to lift the lever. This technique works best if you are up shifting to any gear higher than 2nd gear, so it’s going to be much more difficult to shift from 1st to 2nd because you will have to bypass neutral. So, would this be a good method to use if you’re stranded with a broken clutch cable? Possibly. If you can get your bike into neutral and start out in 2nd gear – and pop it into 2nd gear without the clutch, then you have a fighting chance. It would be tricky, but not impossible.

    How to Do a Clutchless Downshift

    Downshifting without a clutch is much trickier, requires perfect timing and will take a little more practice to get it right. To downshift, you will need to blip the throttle just prior to stepping on the shifter lever. For those of you who don’t know, blipping the throttle means giving it a very short, rapid twist. This blip will increase the rpm of your engine so that it will match the rpm of the lower gear you’re about to shift into. Blip the throttle, change gears, all in one, quick, perfectly timed motion. If you get it wrong, your bike won’t shift and you’ll simply have to try again.

    You will also need to practice the technique of blipping your throttle while squeezing the front brake lever smoothly and in a controlled fashion. This can be done by holding the throttle with the thumb and index fingers, while your other three fingers squeeze the brake lever. Another option, and one I prefer, is to apply the break with your first two fingers and blip the throttle with your thumb and other two fingers. The first few times I blipped the throttle while braking, I kept grabbing a handful of brake, but over time, my control got a lot better.

    Will Clutchless Shifting Damage my Motorcycle?

    motorcycle clutch

    Here’s where you will find differences of opinion. Some will tell you not to do it as there is no real reason for it unless you’re riding the track or drag racing and that you’re only inviting trouble if you do it. Trouble in the form of unnecessary wear and tear on your transmission. So, what’s the truth? Shifting without the clutch can damage your transmission if you do it wrong on a consistent basis. To make sure you’re doing it right, there are certain noises you should listen to. If you hear any kind of hard clunking while you shift, you’re not quite hitting the timing right. It means you’re probably shifting a bit soon. You need to shift right when the engine is at no throttle. If you hear any kind of grinding noises when you shift, you’re doing it wrong and this can really damage your gears.

    Downshifting without the clutch creates a greater risk of damaging your transmission, this is true, and it takes a lot more practice to get it to spot on. Again, if you hear any kind of hard clunking, or gears grinding, you’re not doing it correctly and need to make some adjustment in your throttle timing or just go back to shifting with the clutch.

    Clutchless shifting doesn’t work well with all motorcycles. They work best with sport bike and dirt bikes because these bikes run at a higher RPM and they have shorter gear boxes. This means there is a very short distance between gears in the transmission. The technique is more commonly used by sport bike riders who are taking their motorcycles to the track and want to shave a few tenths of a second off their lap times.

    However, bikes with larger gear boxes and lower RPM’s, will have a hard time cooperating with you if you try to shift without the clutch and you run a higher risk of damaging your transmission.

    Install a Quick Shifter

    quickshifter

    A quick shifter is an aftermarket kit that integrates with the ignition system on your motorcycle or with the fuel system depending on what type you get. In short, when you move the shifter lever, it will momentarily cut off the ignition or cut off the fuel supply. This will reduce the load on your gear box, allowing your bike to change gears when you lift the shifter. So, with a quick shifter, there is no need to roll off the throttle or use the clutch. All you need to do is stay on the throttle and shift.

    Quick shifters are popular with riders who do track days and, while it will not make your bike faster or give you more horsepower, it will make shifting through the gears on a wide open straightaway much faster and smoother. Imagine riding at full throttle and not having to worry about releasing the throttle every time you want to shift. The quick shifter will do that for you. They are not just for riders who do track days or drag racing. Anyone who wants to accelerate quickly and smoothly when entering the freeway, or taking off on a clear, straight street would probably like it.

    You can downshift with the quick shifter installed, but you will be using the same technique mentioned earlier, blip the throttle to match the rpm of the motorcycle gear. The quick shifter will not do that for you.

    So, going back to my original question. Would I be able to ride to the nearest town, or home, if my clutch cable snaps? Yes, I think I can. Although it would be a real pain in the neck to get it started from a dead stop, and I sure hope I don’t hit any red lights.

  • Essential 20 Motorcycle Tools For Every Motorcycle Trip

    Essential 20 Motorcycle Tools For Every Motorcycle Trip

    Reading Time: 12 minutes

    A couple of years ago at a big women’s motorcycle festival, a friend of mine laid down her bike and broke off the shifter lever. Bummer. She was fine but her motorcycle was not. The on-site mechanic at the festival tried his best to find a shifter that would work for her bike but to no avail. So, she and a couple of others spent the rest of the day trying to find a motorcycle shop that could fix it. She finally got it fixed, but, she missed an entire day of riding :-(.

    Replacing a broken shifter lever is a simple repair job if you have the part. The incident made me think about how we can be more prepared for things like this. So I made a list of some common parts, tools and supplies we can carry on our motorcycles so we can keep our bikes in top riding condition and make simple repairs to get us back on the road.

    1. Chain Lube

    Keeping your chain clean and properly lubed on a multi-day trip will help prevent a roadside breakdown and one that can be dangerous too. So, carry a small can of your favourite chain lube with you. The rule of thumb is to clean and lube your motorcycle chain every 500 – 600 miles. For a typical rider, this would be every other day.

    If you’re riding in a dry, dusty environment, give your chain a quick wipe down and lubricate it at the end of each day, even if you don’t cover a lot of miles. The same goes with rainy weather or other wet conditions like water crossings. Water will break down the lubricant faster than usual, so give your wet chain a quick wipe and a lube at the end of the day.  Needless to say, a chain cleaning brush and a rag are nice to have items for this job.

    2. Cleaner

    Carry a small can of all-purpose cleaner that you can use on your plastics, your windscreen and on your helmet visor. Use it nightly to wash the bug guts off your headlight to keep it bright and easy to see. Keep excess dirt off your turn signals and tail lights too. Also, use it to clean your instrument panel and clean your visor often. This will make your ride much safer. I like to carry a micro-fibre towel that I can use on my helmet visor and windscreen, and a separate towel to use on other parts of the bike.

    3. Tire Repair Kit

    Harley Davidson Motorcycles Compact Tools

    Don’t let a flat tire keep you stranded. If you’re riding on tubeless tires, invest in a good tire puncture repair kit and learn how to use it. Some tire repair kits will include CO2 cartridges used to inflate your tire enough to get you to a gas station or somewhere to properly inflate your tire. You can read my article about riding on a plugged tire here.

    4. Portable Air Compressor

    Portable Motorcycle Air Compressor

    Instead of relying on CO2 cartridges to inflate your tire, it’s a good idea to pack a portable air compressor like this one (check the Amazon price). It is strong enough to inflate your tire to 40 psi. With an air compressor, you’ll be sure to have air whenever you need it. If you rely on cartridges, you could use them all, then you’re stuck with nothing. A compressor is also handy for inflating your tire back up when transitioning from dirt riding, back to pavement.

    Oh, by the way, do not use a can of tire inflating fluid, like fix-a-flat, in your motorcycle tire. The liquid will throw off the tire’s balance causing it to wobble at high speeds.

    5. Jump Starter or Battery Cables

    Motorcycle Battery Cables

    A portable battery jump starter is a very smart roadside repair gadget to pack in your saddle bags. Granted, they can be a bit heavy being a battery, but they can certainly get you out of a pinch if your battery dies. They make handy chargers for your electronics too, like your cell phone, GPS unit or tablet computer. Make sure you keep it fully charged throughout your trip so it will be ready when you need it. Read my review on Portable Jump Starters here.

    If you don’t carry a jump starter, consider keeping a small set of jumper cables with you. One of your riding buddies or a good samaritan may be able to provide you with a jump.

    6. Tool Roll or Bag

    To do minor maintenance and repairs while on a trip will require a thoughtfully put-together set of tools specific to your bike. A lot of motorcycles will come with a few tools like spanners or wrenches, but it’s a good idea to piece together a good set of tools like pliers, Allen wrenches or hex keys, screwdrivers, or any specialty tools that your bike requires. As you read through this list of spare parts, consider what tools you will need to make the repairs on your specific bike. Those are the tools you need in your bag.

    7. Spare Levers

    Clutch levers and front brake levers are in a vulnerable spot and can be easily bent or broken if you lay down your bike. Carry an extra set of levers that you know will fit on your bike. For these spare parts, you don’t need to go fancy, you just need something that will get you back on the road. I recently put a set of shorty levers on my Honda CB500X, so now I keep my stock levers in my kit as a backup set.

    Levers are easy to replace on the roadside and only require a small wrench or two. When you’re putting together your onboard toolkit, make sure you include it.

    8. Spare Shifter Lever

    Depending on what kind of motorcycle your ride, your shifter lever may be in a vulnerable spot and is a risk of breaking if you dump your motorcycle.

    Side note: When I say “dump” your bike, or “laid down” it doesn’t necessarily refer to a crash. Inexperienced riders can get caught by surprise when riding super slow through gravel, or you could have a foot slip out from under you. Sometimes bikes fall over for no apparent reason. It happens to every rider at least once.

    Back to the shifter lever. They can break. So, go out and buy a replacement shifter to include in your tool kit. If your shifter includes a tie rod, consider including that too in case it gets damaged or bent. Make sure you know how to install it and include the necessary wrench size or hex key in your tool roll.

    9. Tape

    It’s a good idea to carry several different types of tape with you. Duct tape, electrical tape and self-sealing tape. A roll of electrical tape usually isn’t very large so a regular roll will fit in your tool kit without a problem. Duct tape rolls are generally too large to carry so, take a few feet of tape and re-roll it onto a pencil, remove the pencil when you’re done. Now you have a decent length of duct tape handy.

    Another good tape to carry is self-sealing tape. This is a silicone tape that does not stick to anything except itself. It’s the perfect tape for repairing a leaking hose. When you apply the tape around the hose, you’ll stretch it tight. The tape will form a seal and will stick to itself. This stuff works great. It can be wound down into a smaller role if you don’t want to carry an entire roll with you.

    10. Battery Jump Starter

    These days there is no excuse for being stuck with a dead battery. With Lithium Ion battery technology getting better and better, battery jump starters are coming in more compact sizes. Some of them are just larger than cell phones. They usually come with jumper cable clips and hold enough power to start your motorcycle even in cold weather. Some also have features such as USB charging ports to keep your electronics charged. Read my full review of jump starters here.

    Make sure you know how to access your battery and that you included the necessary tools in your onboard tool kit.

    11. Extra Bulbs

    It’s pretty obvious that driving at night without a headlight is a bad idea. But, even in the daytime a burned-out headlight or tail light is a safety issue. Light bulbs can go dead at any time and they don’t give you any warning. That’s why it is a good idea to include bulbs in your repair kit. The type of bulb you use will, of course, depend on your motorcycle, so make sure you purchase bulbs that will fit. It’s a good idea to bring headlight bulbs, tail light and brake lights, and turn indicator bulbs.

    For those of you who use low profile, led turn signals, consider including a replacement in your maintenance kit. While they are a little more difficult to replace than a bulb, at least you’ll be safe and on the road again. Like always, know what tools you will need to do the repair. Will you need a small Phillips screwdriver or a hex key? How about a small standard screwdriver to use on the connectors. Pack them with you.

    12. Clutch and Throttle Cables

    A broken throttle cable equals a dead bike. A broken clutch cable also means you’re not going anywhere. While these types of repairs can be prevented with proper maintenance and pre-ride inspection, sometimes they can take you by surprise. If you have a suspicion that your cables are worn or if they are old and have never been lubed or replaced, consider packing replacements with you.

    Cable replacement as a roadside repair is a bit more complicated than, say, changing a bulb, but it can be done. Do some research on your specific motorcycle to learn the steps. Figure out what covers need to be removed to access the cable brackets. Determine what tools you will need to remove those covers. New cables don’t usually come pre-lubricated, so you will need to determine how you will lube the cable before installing it. All of these factors should be considered before your trip.

    13. Zip Ties

    I have seen the most ingenious repairs done with zip ties or cable ties, and no onboard tool kit should be without them. You don’t need to bring a lot of them, but you do want to carry a variety of different sizes.  There are probably a million different ways you can use cable ties, from holding cracked plastics together, to replacing a missing pull tab on your jacket’s zipper. When you’re in the moment and trying to find a solution to a problem, cable ties may give you the perfect temporary solution to get you back on the road.

    14. Safety Wire

    A foot or two lengths of safety wire can come in handy for a lot of roadside repairs. Safety wire is usually used for securing bolts to a motorcycle so that nothing falls off if it comes loose. This safety feature is mostly used on the track as a loose nut or bolt on the race track presents a hazard for other riders. But, there are a lot of other uses for a bit of safety wire. Use your imagination when in the moment and a small length of wire may be just what you need. Better to have it than to not have it.

    15. Fuses

    Carry at least one type of fuse for each type used on your motorcycle. Check your owner’s manual to see what size and what amps are needed. Replacement fuses are available at your local motorcycle shop or auto parts store and often come in a set in a handy little carrying case.

    But, having the fuses with you is only part of this repair solution. Make sure you know where the fuse box is located on your motorcycle. Check the owner’s manual or shop manual to locate other fuses that aren’t at the fuse box. If you have after-market auxiliary lights or plugs installed on your bike, make sure you bring fuses rated for those items as well.

    16. Flashlight

    Doing maintenance or repairs on your bike, even during the light of day, will sometimes be much easier if you have a light to shine in those little small spaces. If you’re camping, then you probably already have a headlamp for a flashlight that you can use. But, you might not always have your camping gear with you on a day ride. Keep a small flashlight in your tool kit and make sure the batteries are fresh before you leave on your trip.

    17. Nuts, Bolts and Washers

    Keeping a couple of extra common bolts and nuts that fit various parts of your motorcycle would make a great addition to your tool kit. When doing roadside repair or maintenance during your trip, nuts and bolts can get lost, broken and, if not properly torqued, some bolts could work their way loose during a ride.

    18. Hose Clamps

    A variety of hose clamp sizes will be a good addition to your maintenance kit. Pack the stainless steel variety that screws tight and the smaller variety that is self-tensioning. A spare hose clamp will save you a lot of headaches if you need to repair a fuel line or radiator hose (if you have one).

    19. Razor Blade

    Consider keeping a small razor-sharp blade in your tool kit. A compact retractable box cutter will do. They are perfect for cutting bits of tape, hose, tubing or a package of freeze-dried beef stroganoff for your dinner. Whatever you use it for, it’s a handy item to have around. They are inexpensive and readily available at any dollar store.

    20. Cash

    Right now, I could go out to the garage, take the seat off my motorcycle, get into the little zip lock baggie where I keep my registration and find a $20 bill. I put it in there a long time ago and forgot about it. But, having it there could get me out of a pinch someday. Even in this day of ATMs and credit cards, there are still out-of-the-way places, little mom-and-pop shops that only take cash.

    While some of the items on this list will help you keep your motorcycle well maintained during your trip, other items will help you make roadside repairs so that you can keep riding. Remember, if your repair is an emergency fix for a bigger problem, take your bike to the nearest repair shop and get a permanent fix before you continue on your journey. I hope this list has helped you determine what to include in your roadside motorcycle repair kit.

    Conclusion

    Other than professional mechanics, you can also use tool kits for regular maintenance of your Harley Davidson or any other bikes in less time. Motorcycle tools help to extend the long life of a bike for smooth and safe rides.

    Glance through a wide range of tool kits for your for all types of vehicles and get the appropriate tool chest for your Harley Davidson motorcycles.

  • 15 Must-Have Motorcycle Camping Gear Items

    15 Must-Have Motorcycle Camping Gear Items

    Reading Time: 19 minutes

    There’s nothing better than loading up your motorcycle and heading out into the woods for a camping trip, sleeping under the stars, cooking over an open fire, and enjoying nature. But, motorcycle camping is not the same as packing up the car or truck and heading out. Nope, there’s no room for the Webber grill or the cast iron skillet. There’s no space for the giant 5 person family tent, or an ice chest, or a beer cooler.

    I’ve been going on a motorcycle camping trip every summer for about 5 years and in the beginning, I used to overload my bike with a lot of unnecessary stuff and oversized camping gear. I would bring big, thick sleeping bags, a heavy blow-up mattress, a nice clean outfit for every day, and plenty of stuff that I never even used. Over the years I’ve learned what camping gear I need and what I can leave at home and I’ve whittled down my gear list to the point where I only carry the basics, but I still have the things I like to keep me comfortable.

    Obviously, there is some motorcycle gear that you should also take for overnight motorcycle camping trips but in this article, we just focus on motorcycle camping gear. Motorcycle camping gear is pocket-friendly and easily available. Some of the most compact motorcycle sleeping gear includes a camping stove, coffee gear, sleeping pads, bike jacket, pocket stove and additional small fuel bottle in the store. Pack small for a small camping trip. A two person tent does not take too much space for a wild camping trip. Foam pad materials, cooking fuel, basic tools and a repair kit is appropriate for a camping trip.

    When choosing gear for motorcycle camping you need to think like a backpacker. You want to pack small and light, although the lightweight is not as much of an issue. So, I’ve put together a list of gear that works great for motorcycle camping. I am not including things like luggage, saddlebags or top cases in this list. This is a list of gear that you will pack inside those bags. So, let’s dive into what you need for the perfect motorcycle camping trip.

    1. Tent

    camp tent

    Your tent is your portable shelter. It’s your tiny house in the woods. It will keep you dry and protect you from pesky insects and basic woodland creatures. There are a few things you need to consider when selecting a tent. Will it be just you sleeping in it? Do you want to keep your bike covered? Do you want a room to sit up, or stand up in your tent? Here are two tents to consider. The first is my favorite and works great for me. The second is a tent I’d love to get for extended trips.

    My recommended tent is the REI Passage 2.  It’s a two-person tent, but I prefer to use it as a one-person tent plus my gear. I love the fact that it’s roomy inside. Although it’s not tall enough for me to fully stand up, there is plenty of room to sit up and move around. The tent, with the REI footprint, weighs about 5 pounds and packs down to a length of 18 inches, which fits perfectly in a duffle bag or fits nicely across the back seat of the bike.

    It sets up easy and usually takes me about 10 minutes total to get it up, with the footprint and rain fly, and secured with the included aluminium tent stakes. If it’s a warm night and I’m not concerned with privacy, I will often leave the rain fly off so I can see the stars and the trees.

    If you want a tent that gives you more room, including a way to keep your motorcycle out of the elements, you might consider a Motorcycle Tent (check the current price on Amazon). This tent has a very roomy sleeping area that is big enough for 3 people if you don’t need to store your gear. It has an extended area that is equally as large that will accommodate your motorcycle and your gear.

    The reason I would choose this tent over the RedVerz Expedition tent is that the Vuz Moto tent is a dome tent that stands on its own without the use of tie-downs and tent stakes. The RedVerz tent requires tent stakes just to keep it upright and this limits the places it can be used.

    When I can justify a need for such a tent, I will be purchasing it, and at that time I’ll do a full review. But, I love the idea of having my motorcycle close by and protected during the night. Having it out of sight from other people will be a deterrent for motorcycle thieves, and having it out of the elements means it will be dry and ready to ride in the morning.

    2. Sleeping Bag

    sleeping bag

    Now that you have the perfect tent, you will need good sleeping gear to keep you warm and comfortable at night. There are usually two types of sleeping bag people; the mummy bag people and the rectangular bag people. I’ve found that the people who like a rectangular sleeping bag absolutely hate mummy bags.

    The mummy bag shape is designed to keep your body heat contained, therefore keeping you warmer in cold weather. And, if you’re a side sleeper, you can curl up with the sleeping bag curled up around you. But, on the downside, if you like to spread out when you sleep, you’ll probably find the mummy bag a bit confining and frustrating. So, what kind of sleeping bag person are you? Here are two recommended sleeping bags, one of each shape, that would be great for 3 season moto camping.

    Currently, I use the L.L. Bean Ultralight 20 degree mummy sleeping bag. I chose this bag because of its lightweight and compact size when in its stuff sack. It is incredibly warm and I find that I don’t need to bulk up on a lot of extra clothing when sleeping in cold weather, which makes it so much more comfortable. It comes with a stuff sack and packs down small enough to fit in my saddle bag. Since I occasionally go backpacking, it was a very smart purchase.

    If you want something roomier, I recommend the Northface Dolomite 20 Degree Down Sleeping Bag. This is a reasonably priced, rectangular sleeping bag made of breathable nylon materials and synthetic down filling. Most down sleeping bags these days are synthetic, but are still as effective as true goose or duck down. Synthetic material is also good if you have allergies to real down feathers. This bag is rated for 20 degrees Fahrenheit or higher, making it perfect for cool weather camping. It packs down into its stuff sack nicely, but will not pack quite as small as the mummy bag due to its wider size. Still, an excellent choice that won’t take up much room on your bike.

    3. Sleeping Pad

    Now that you have your tent and a bag, you’re probably not going to want to sleep straight on the ground. So, the next thing you will need as part of your sleeping gear is a sleeping pad or air mattress. People sleep a lot of different ways, on their sides, back or stomach, so you want to choose a sleeping pad that will fit your sleeping style. If you’re a side sleeper, it’s best to get a pad that will support the pressure points like your hips and shoulders.  A thicker, firmer pad would work better. If you sleep on your back, those pressure points are not as much of a concern but you will still need something that will support you.

    You should also consider your size and purchase a pad that is appropriate. You want to make sure that the length and width of your pad is big enough so that part of you is not hanging off the edge while you sleep.

    Currently, I use the Therm-a-Rest ProLite Ultralight Self-Inflating Backpacking Pad. I chose this pad because it packs down small to 11″ x 4″ bundle and weighs only 18 ounces. It also fits in my saddle bag along with my sleeping bag. The honey comb design of the pad traps the air in little pockets so the entire sleeping pad stays firm. I like that I can adjust the firmness by blowing it up tight, or letting a little air out to soften it up.

    If you are not as concerned about size and weight, and you’re looking for a little more luxury, then this is the pad for you. The Therm-a-Rest MondoKing 3D Self-Inflating Foam Camping Mattress. This foam mattress inflates to a full 4 inches thick and can be blown up to fit whatever level of firmness you like. It’s great for people of a larger stature, or for those who have back problems. It weighs in at a hefty 8 pounds and will take up more room on your bike, but it does compress down nicely and fits in its own stuff sack.

    4. Pillow

    For years I would use my clothes bundled up in a stuff sack for my pillow, but I finally got tired of the neck pain and decided to invest in a good inflatable pillow. Best decision I ever made. This piece of sleeping gear has become clutch to me having a goodnight sleep. A nice feature to look for in a good quality pillow is a layer of fill between you and the inner bladder. Without that soft layer, you’ll feel like you’re resting your head on a balloon, bouncing you around. Another great feature to have is a soft brushed polyester layer to lay your head on.

    I use the Cocoon Ultralight Air-Core Hood Camp Pillow. I like the shape of this pillow because it’s designed to fit in the hood of my sleeping bag and it stays put all night. Because it’s inflatable, it can be adjusted to whatever firmness you like. It weighs only ounces and is about the size of a folded up pair of hiking socks, so I can stuff it anywhere I have a little extra room.

    If you want something a little larger, the Sea to Summit Aeros Premium travel pillow is a great choice. It is slightly larger than the Cocoon pillow but still packs small enough to fit in the palm of your hand. Its square shape gives you a little more surface room and would be a good pillow for use with a rectangular sleeping bag.

    5. Camping Chair

    Most campgrounds come with picnic tables that you can sit at, but it’s nice to be able to kick back in a chair by the campfire too. That’s where a camping chair comes in. I’m sure you’re familiar with the folding chairs that are sold just about everywhere; the ones that we take to our kids’ soccer games or throw into the car for bar-b-q’s at the park. But these chairs are heavy and take up a lot of space. That’s where a good, compact camping chair comes in.

    Small, lightweight, super durable and surprisingly comfortable, the TrekUltra chair (check Amazon’s price) is the one I take with me on every motorcycle camping trip. These chairs, and others like it, are so easy to assemble. When you take it out of the small carrying bag, the legs almost snap into place on their own. The design is intuitive, and putting the seat cover over the frame takes very little effort. The TrekUltra is said to support up to 300 pounds and while they may seem a little wobbly when you first use one, I have no doubt they would support the heavier than average person.

    6. Table

    As stated above, most campsites will come with a picnic table so you have a place to prepare your food and sit and eat it too. But, that’s not always the case, especially if you are doing some adventure riding or camping on public or BLM land. While cooking with your stove on the ground or a rock or tree stump is rugged and cool, there’s no shame in having a table when you need it or when you just want one. When relaxing by the campfire, it’s nice to have a small table to set your drinks or anything else you want at arms reach. When considering which table to buy, again, you need to think small, compact and lightweight.

    There are two types of camping tables to consider; one with a cloth top and one with an aluminium slat top. One difference between the two is packability. The cloth top tables will pack down quite a bit smaller than the aluminium top table. The downside to the cloth top table is that it has a bit of a bounce to it and it lacks stability. So, a simple can of soda could end up tipping over, and it’s a bit more difficult, or unsafe, to cook on the unstable surface. This is the main reason I don’t want to recommend a table with a cloth top.

    So, after careful consideration, I present to you two ultra light tables.

    My first choice is the Trekology Portable Side Table (3 sizes here on Amazon). There are a number of reasons why I would pick this one over other tables, but one of them is because of its height. If you’re using a camping chair as I mentioned previously, this table matches that height perfectly. Making it the perfect companion for preparing a meal or as a side table while sitting by the campfire. It is easy to assemble, as it only comes in two sections. The legs fold out and snap into place. Then, the top folds out and snaps on top of the leg assembly. There are no complicated parts or pieces that can get lost.

    The Trekology table comes in three sizes; small, medium, and large. The smallest table is 13 x 16 inches, about 12 inches tall and weighs only 2.2 pounds. For me, someone who does a lot of solo camping, this is a perfect size. However, if you need something larger, it’s available too.

    If you’re looking for something that is ultra lightweight and more compact in size, then I recommend the GSI Outdoors Micro Table (also found on Amazon). This little table weighs just under a pound at 14 ounces and stands at 6 inches tall. The surface is 15 x 11 inches which are just slightly smaller than the Trekology. So, if you’re not concerned with height, and want something that is super lightweight, the GSI might be the table for you. It also comes in a larger model, the GHI Macro Table, with more height and a larger surface area.

    7. Stove

    If I only carry one stove with me while motorcycle camping, I always take my JetBoil (see the latest sizes and prices on Amazon). It heats things up super fast and doubles as a drinking container or serving container. In the mornings, I generally use it to heat up water to make my instant coffee, because I have my priorities. I’ll drink my coffee out of a separate insulated cup, leaving the Jet Boil free to make my food. The Jet Boil is great for heating up pre-packaged food, freeze dried foods, or things like oatmeal, soup or pasta. It’s a quick, uncomplicated, one-pot solution to cooking outdoors.

    Sometimes I’ll bring a second stove to use with a mess kit. This is usually when I want to fry something up in a pan like, eggs or bacon or a burger. Although I enjoy prepping a lot of my food over an open fire, sometimes it’s not possible depending on where you’re camping. For this type of outdoor cooking, I carry the Etekcity Ultralight Camping Stove with Piezo Ignition. This thing is super small but really does a great job. It screws right on top of a fuel canister and will accommodate smaller pans. No, you’re not going to heat up a big skillet with this thing but it works great with smaller cooking kits. The built-in ignition is a nice touch, although I generally use a lighter, it’s nice to know it’s there. 

    8. Mess Kit

    A good mess kit, or a cooking kit, will come with a few different goodies. At a minimum, it should include a pot with a lid, a frying pan, and it should also include utensils to cook and eat with. Drinking cups and a small plate or bowl is also a nice touch. There are a lot of good mess kits on Amazon and a lot of them look alike. The kit I use is the Kemp Travel Camping Cookware set (you can find it on Amazon). It’s perfect if you’re only cooking for yourself. My favorite part of this kit is the little bamboo wooden spatula. I never knew how bad I needed one until I got one.

    If you’re looking for something with more, you might want to consider the Wealers 11 Piece Mess Kit. More pots, more lids, compact design. It comes with cooking a wooden spatula and a serving spoon but doesn’t come with eating utensils, so you’ll have to get those separately. Still, it’s a really good, all around mess kit.

    9. Grill

    Taking a portable grill on your trip will depend on what kind of cooking you plan on doing. If you’re just boiling water to hydrate your meals, then you really don’t need a grill, you just need the Jet Boil or tiny stove mentioned above. But, if campfires are permitted where you’re camping, and if you love grilling on an open fire, then I recommend packing some kind of grill that you can put over your campfire and use for cooking.

    There are several packable, lightweight portable grills on the market, but I’m only going to recommend one because it’s the most amazing grill I’ve ever used. It’s the Bison Rolling BBQ Grill. It’s made of aluminium and Teflon coated so it’s easy to clean.

    10. Hatchet or Ax

    I like to bring a hatchet with me when camping mostly for chopping kindling if I need it. In order to be able to pack it in my saddle bags, I use a hatchet with a short handle. You really don’t need a long-handled axe since you’re not likely to be splitting your own firewood. The one I use is nothing fancy and I purchased it at a local sporting goods store.

    When you’re looking for a hatchet it’s a good idea to find one that’s compact in size, but you don’t need to skimp on the weight. A little heft in the blade will work in your favor. If the hatchet is too light, it’s harder to get a good chop. Also, forged steel blades will be a bit more durable, and stainless steel may form pits on the blade edge and will need more frequent sharpening.

    11. Hydration System

    Whenever I take long trips on the motorcycle I always wear my 2 liter CamelBak hydration system. And, yes, I wear the bright yellow one for better visibility. It’s smart to use your camping gear as well as your motorcycle gear for visibility. It’s not only convenient while I’m riding, but while at camp, I’ll remove the bladder from the backpack and hang it from a low tree branch. It functions as a faucet and is very handy. I also bring a refillable water bottle for drinking while at camp.

    If you need more water, it’s a bit of a hassle to pack a gallon. It’s heavy and takes up a lot of space. A great solution to this problem is a collapsible water jug. Carry an extra 4 liters with the Hydrapak Seeker. It’s durable, easy to fill and pour from, is BPA free and folds up to a nice packable size.

    12. Camping Towel

    Staying in a campground with showers is a nice luxury when you’re out on the road a roughing it. But, packing a bath towel from home is bulky. Since we have a limited amount of space on the motorcycle, we need a way to pack a good towel without compromising that space. So, a camping towel is the best solution.

    Camping towels are small microfiber towels that are super absorbent. Consider it as a chamois for your body; you dry off a section, then wring the excess water out. That’s how a camping towel works. They don’t cost a whole lot and come in several sizes. Also, a good outdoor towel will include a clip so you can clip it to your tent and let it air dry.

    I recommend the Wise Owl Outfitters Camping Towel when it comes to camping gear towels. This towel comes with everything we are looking for. It is large, so it will double as a beach towel, which is one of the reasons I prefer this towel over others. It has a clip that allows you to hang it out to dry. It is made of a quick-drying microfiber, and, it’s soft and absorbent, which is exactly what you’re looking for in a motorcycle camping towel.

    13. Lights

    Unless you want to feel your way around the woods at after dark, you’re going to need a light source. I’m a firm believer in headlamps. They are very popular among outdoorsy people such as backpackers, hikers and campers and there are plenty to choose from. So, here are a few features to look for when selecting a headlamp.

    • A wide, comfortable, adjustable band
    • Adjustable angle so you can tilt it down when needed.
    • Adjustable brightness. You don’t always need a super bright light.
    • A flashing feature for safety or a SOS distress signal.
    • A red  light feature. The low, red light allows your eyes to adjust to night vision and gives you better peripheral vision than white lights.

    If you’re looking for a good, packable lantern, I recommend the Suoaki Led Camping Lantern. This lantern serves as an adequate flashlight and a soft table lantern. The soft light makes it easy on the eyes. When not in use it folds down small so it’s easy to pack away. The company makes a solar powered version, as well as a battery, operated one.

    14. A Good Knife

    A good camping knife will come in handy for a lot of different uses from chopping small tree branches to slicing meat to carving a little fox out of a knot of wood. I feel like buying a knife is a very personal choice. I’m not an expert on knives and with so many to choose from, I’m really not comfortable recommending something specific.

    With that in mind, I always thought it would be cool to carry a big, Crocodile Dundee type knife tucked in my boot. But, for me, that’s not too practical. Besides, I’m not going to skin a dear or anything like that. I’ve purchased a couple of folding knives that are very good quality, but I always come back to my small, lightweight and simple 2 inch Gerber knife. It serves me well for my simple motorcycle camping needs, and miraculously always stays sharp.

    15. Bowl and Cup

    The last thing I want to recommend on my list of 15 best camping gear items is the Sea to Summit X Series 2 piece set of collapsable bowl and cup (here on Amazon). They are made of BPA free food-grade silicon and smash down flat when not in use. I find that they can fit along with my mess kit and they nest among the pots and the whole kit still fits in the mess kit bag. The cup is large and is great for enjoying a cup of coffee, tea or hot chocolate.

    I hope this extensive list of camping gear has helped you figure out how to put together your camping gear kit. Remember, it’s ideal to choose items that are compact and lightweight. While we’re not scrutinizing ounces like backpackers do keep in mind that keeping your motorcycle light will make your trip easier on your bike.