When I’m out on a long motorcycle ride, after a couple hours, my body starts to stiffen up and sometimes the aches and pains build up. But I don’t always want to stop and take a break. So, I’ve figured out ways to stretch out and get the blood flowing while I’m still in motion.
So, how do you stretch while riding a motorcycle? To stretch out your legs you can stand up or rest your leg on a highway peg. You can stretch your arms and shoulders one at a time. You can stretch your back by twisting. In this article I go into more detail about stretches that can be done while the motorcycle is in motion.
Before you read on, I feel it’s the responsible thing to do to tell you to be careful. These stretches require you to move around and ride with one hand, etc. So, do it at your own risk, and always keep your eyes on the road.
Also, doing a set of stretches before you get on your bike will help keep the aches and pains away for a while. Stretch out every time you stop for gas, for a snack, for sight seeing or for a break. But, you can also stretch while you’re riding.
3 Ways to Stretch Your Legs
Depending on what kind of motorcycle you ride, staying in a riding position for long periods of time can cramp up the legs. This is particularly true on sport bikes, or smaller bikes. There are two main areas of the legs that usually cause problems; the knees and the hips. So, let’s explore different ways to get blood flowing through these stiff joints.
1. Stand Up
One of the easiest ways to stretch out your legs is to stand up. Standing requires a little bit of practice, but it’s pretty easy to do. Not all motorcycles allow the rider to stand on the pegs, and some of my cruiser riding friends have a hard time doing it. But, on any standard bike, sport bike, or dual sport, it can be done.
To stand up, start by placing your feet firmly on the pegs to make sure you have a secure platform. Lean forward until you feel your weight balanced over the pegs. Then, keeping your hands steady on the handlebars, push yourself to a stand. Keep a light grip on the handlebars and keep your weight even on both foot pegs.
If you place a little bit of pressure on one foot peg, you’ll notice that it causes the bike to lean and go in that direction. This is a common steering technique for dirt bike riding, and you an use it to keep the bike going in the right direction.
To add some extra stretching while standing, bend your knees slightly and ride for awhile with your quads engaged, like a racehorse jockey. This will get blood flowing into your muscles and knees.
Next, straighten your legs and lean your hips forward as much as you can. This will stretch out the hip flexors. Don’t forget to give your glutes a good squeeze to keep your tooshie from going numb.
If you’ve never ridden while standing up, start by trying it on a long piece of straight highway with little to no traffic. As you get more comfortable with it, you can stand while riding the twisties. Use your foot pegs to initiate a turn and let you bike flow through it. Sitting back down is easy. Just sit. Simple as that.
2. Highway pegs
Installing additional footpegs on the front of your motorcycle allows you to stretch out a leg, like a recliner for your motorcycle. The pegs can be installed on the bike’s frame, or on the engine guard. The ideal position is far enough away so that you can rest the heel of your boot on the peg. But, any change of position will be beneficial.
Highway pegs come in a lot of styles and sizes. Some fold up and some don’t and they are much more popular on cruisers and touring bikes, but you can easily install them on sport bikes too. If you ride cruiser with foot plates or floor boards, they sell a heel hooker that attach to the front of your floor board allowing you to hook your heal and stretch your leg.
3. Rest your Leg on the Passenger Foot Pegs
Standing and highway pegs will help stretch your knees, but sometimes your hips need a little extra stretching. That’s where your rear foot pegs come in handy. This method is not going to work on every motorcycle, but I’ve done it on all three motorcycles I’ve owned, SV650, Yamaha FJ1100, and I do it on my CB500X. Also, saddle bags can get in the way so this method is not 100% perfect on every bike. But, if you can do it, the stretch in the hip flexors feels great.
To get your foot on the rear peg, I suggest doing one leg at a time to maintain good control over the bike. Do it on a stretch of highway where you don’t have to shift or maneuver around. Make sure your rear pegs are down before you leave, because it’s not easy, and it’s dangerous, to try and reach back to lower the pegs. Scoot back in the saddle, lean forward and swing your foot back and up until it hooks onto the peg. You have to do this blind so it may take a few tries to get your foot up there.
When you do, your leg will be bent and you’ll get a good stretch in your thigh. To increase the stretch, roll your hip forward and you should feel it more in your hip flexors. Repeat the stretch on the other leg.
How to Stretch Your Arms and Shoulders
While riding, your arms are in one position for long periods of time. This can cause a lack of blood flow into your hands and sometimes you’ll experience numbness in your hands or fingers. A forward riding position will also put pressure on your wrists and shoulders. So, how do you keep the blood flowing? Here are a few stretches you can do for your arms and shoulders.
Ride with one hand for a while. We’ve all seen the sport bike riders do this. It’s a cool, chill way to ride and let that arm relax a bit. Just rest it on your thigh for a while. Ok, it’s not just sport bike riders, we all do it.
Get a throttle lock so you can relax your right arm too. A throttle lock is designed to prevent your throttle from snapping back. It is not the same as cruise control. It’s really convenient for resting your throttle hand for a minute or two. Use it only for short periods of time and when traffic is light as it will greatly reduce your reaction time if you have to stop quickly.
Stretch your shoulder by placing your arm behind your back and press it against the small of your back. At the same time, pull your shoulder blade down and your shoulder back. You should feel a stretch in the front of your shoulder muscles and a slight stretch in your upper chest. Hold this for 30 seconds to a minute. Do the same on with the other arm if you have a throttle lock.
Another way to stretch your shoulders is to extend your arm and rotate it in a windmill fashion. Yeah, you’re going to look like a dork and you might get some looks, but who cares. This will get blood flow into your rotator cuff and to all the connecting tissues in your shoulder joints as well as all those little muscles that stabilize your shoulder. Do 5 or 6 rotations in both directions, in both arms. You really need a throttle lock. I recommend this one on Amazon.
How to Stretch Your Back
Stretching your back while in motion is a little more difficult and you won’t get as good a stretch as you will off the bike. But, there are still a couple things you can do that will make your back oh so good.
A wonderful way to stretch your back and spine is to do a common yoga pose called cat-cow. Usually this pose is done on your hands and knees, but you’re going to do a sitting variation of it while on the bike, of course.
Here are the step to take for your cat-cow pose while on the bike, zooming down the freeway. If you’ve ever done yoga, you’ll know that tilting your head up and down is an integral part of these poses, but, while on your motorcycle, you’re going to have to keep your head upright and eyes on the road.
Start in an upright position, back straight, hands relaxed on the handlebars and feet firmly on the foot pegs. Take a deep breath in.
Move into the cow position first. While exhaling, roll your shoulders up, back and around, then, with your shoulders down, arch your back as much as possible, allowing the top of your pelvis to roll forward, and press your chest forward. Hold this pose for about 10 seconds. That’s a lot of steps, but it should be one fluid motion. Practice while your bike is parked in the garage. You’ll feel it.
Move into the cat pose. This one feels really good. Take a deep breath in. Then, while you exhale, in one fluid motion, allow your shoulders to move forward and your chest to collapse. Push your navel back, into your spin and push your tailbone forward. Feel your spine stretch. If you feel some cracking and popping in your back, you’re doing it right.
Relax and return to an upright riding position and take a couple of deep cleaning breaths. You can repeat these poses a couple of times. The combination of the breathing and stretching really helps reduce rider fatigue.
There is one more stretch for the back that you can do, but it’s a little more dangerous as it involves twisting, so be extra cautious when doing these.
We’ll call this one the shoulder twist for lack of a better name. Starting in a relaxed riding position, lean slightly forward and drop one shoulder down and to the inside twisting the back slightly. Repeat this motion on the other side. Do this three or four times on each side to stretch the back and shoulders.
For this one, you’ll be reaching back with one hand. Start in a relaxed riding position, take your left hand and reach way back, twisting your back as your reach. Remember to keep your eyes forward because you’re still in motion. Try to twist your lower back as much as possible without upsetting your riding. Repeat this motion on the other side.
I realize that through these exercises you’re not going to get as good a stretch as you would when you’re off the bike, but, they can bring you a lot of relief to your aching bones when you’re on the road and in between stops.
Not every motorcycle owner has the luxury of outdoor motorcycle storage to park their bikes safely in a cozy garage. Some riders have no choice but to park their motorcycles outside in the elements. If this is you, then you have more things to be concerned about, such as security, hot summer sun, rain, snow or winter cold. In this article, I’ll talk about how to store your motorcycle outside in winter, summer, short term and long term.
A motorcycle shed is a storage shed that can be portable, indoors or outdoors. Motorcycle storage sheds that are indoor offer ample facilities to protect the bike from external threats. However, an outdoor motorcycle shed may not be as safe. Steel reinforced walls are a great option for outdoor parking of motorcycles. It is a maintenance free way to keep your motorcycles anywhere. A bike shed can solve all motorcycle storage solutions. It is essential to determine the storage capacity for the bike and the space to park. Storage buildings have flexible plans for safe motorcycle storage options.
A motorcycle storage shed is not a luxury everyone can afford. Motorcycle storage is not a big deal but there are external threats always. A motorcycle cover is sometimes the maximum a rider can get than finding storage sheds. The best motorcycle storage shed is your own garage. For riders, who have motorcycle storage sheds of their own are the luckiest. Motorcycle storage tent is given on rent to riders. A motorbike shed helps to protect your motorcycle from the different weather conditions. The best motorcycle storage sheds are usually indoors. A storage unit in the house can be converted into the best motorcycle storage space. An outdoor storage shed should be such that it protects the motorcycle from natural light. A motorcycle cover is a portable shed that allows riders to park their bikes safely outside. A motorcycle shelter is a public area for riders to park their bikes. Since all motorcycle owners cannot find versatile outdoor storage, bike storage garages that house multiple bikes are the safest option from harsh weather conditions. Synthetic plastic polymer bike shield covers also serve as a great alternative. A bike capsule with ventilation windows is another great choice for riders with a budget. Steel frame sturdy outdoor unit is now available for parking bikes safely outside. UV resistant steel panels protect the motorcycle from extreme weather and save garage space. Heavy polyurethane coating is used to make a motorcycle tent. These portable units are a long term storage solution.
Parking Outside During Summer
Summertime is riding season and, for most motorcyclists, the bike doesn’t stay parked in one spot for too long. But, the summer heat and sun can take their toll. So, here are some steps to take if you have to park your motorcycle outside during summer.
Keep it out of the sun. Prolonged direct sunlight can fade the paint. The color on plastics will fade more quickly and will often fade to a different color than metal parts. Give your bike an uneven color. Also, plastics can become dry and brittle when exposed to sunlight and they will begin to crack. You may not see it right away, but when you try to remove a plastic cover, it is more likely to break if it is brittle. The seat cover will also take its toll from exposure to the sun and will begin to crack and peel.
So, try to park your motorcycle out of direct sunlight. Under a carport, a covered porch or patio, or under a breezeway is ideal.
Parking under the shade of a tree is also a good choice. However, you will have to deal with other problems left by birds or the tree itself. Bird droppings are nasty and gross and can destroy your paint. During spring and summer, most trees are blooming and many will drop fruit or seed pods, not to mention sticky sap.
A motorcycle cover is your best bet if you park under a tree or if you have no shade available. Purchase a cover with UV protection, one that is waterproof, and made specifically to fit the shape and size of your motorcycle.
Arguably you could throw a tarp over it, or a cloth cover such as an old sheet. But, even if you live in a dry, hot climate, you want to be prepared for the unexpected summer rainstorm. And, what if you throw a sheet over your bike thinking it’s good enough, and the sprinklers come on during the night? So, a cover specifically for a motorcycle is your best bet. Here is our top recommended cover.
Parking Outside During Winter
During the winter, riders are more likely to store their motorcycles for weeks at a time, if not all winter long. Probably the biggest concern, depending on where you live, is protecting your bike from rain and moisture. Just like in the summer, it’s best to park your motorcycle under a structure that will protect it from rain.
Additional protection from a cover is also recommended. If you know your bike is going to get rained on, choose the right cover for it. Make sure it is waterproof. It’s also important to purchase a cover that fits your bike properly. For example, if your cover is too big for your bike, it can sag in the middle and rest on the seat and tank. Add some rain to this scenario and the cover could become saturated. Now, you’ll have a wet cover sitting directly on your bike’s paint which could cause discoloration even within a few days.
Another winter concern is wind. If you use a cover, you want to do what you can to prevent wind from blowing the cover off. So, make sure the cover is secured over both front and rear tires, and use the cover’s bottom straps to secure it to the bike.
What if the temperature is below freezing? Will your gas freeze? No. Don’t worry about your gasoline freezing. The freezing point for gasoline is somewhere below -40 degrees Fahrenheit. Even the average arctic winter temperatures don’t drop quite that low.
Over-inflate your tires. When the outside temperature drops, the air inside the tire will compress causing the tire pressure to lower. If you do any riding in cold weather you will want to check your tire pressure to make sure it is up to the recommended PSI. It is often necessary to add more air to your tires for the winter.
Storing your motorcycle outside requires more than just protecting it from the elements. Theft can be a serious problem. There are several things you can do to help keep your motorcycle home where it belongs.
Cover it. Often covering your bike will be enough to discourage a bike thief by taking away the temptation or adding a level of inconvenience, but a cover alone is not going to be enough.
Lock your motorcycle. Ideally, you should lock your motorcycle to an object, like a post, or an anchor. Kryptonite makes an anchor that secures to the ground with concrete anchor bolts and it has a low profile when not in use. They can be found on Amazon. Check the current prices here.
If you’re not able to install an anchor, then use other locking methods. A disk lock is a good start and many come with motion sensor alarms for added protection. Some motorcycle covers come with grommets where you can insert a U-lock through the cover and through the front wheel. Also, a heavy chain with a good lock, like this one, is an excellent investment.
In addition to covers and locks, you can also take the extra step of parking your motorcycle in a well lit area. If you live in an apartment complex, it’s actually better to keep your bike parked in an open area where people can see what’s going on around it.
Parking your bike in a hidden area is not always a good idea. Keeping it hidden from view might deter the opportunistic thief. But, the thief who plans ahead to steal your bike, would love to do his work out of sight.
Long Term Motorcycle Storage
Storing your motorcycle for longer than 30 days involves some additional steps whether you store it in winter or summer, inside or outside. Here are the steps you should take whenever you store your bike for more than 3 months, 6 months, or even a year.
Wash the Bike Before Storing
Wash the bike before you store it. Get all the hidden chain gunk and road grime out of all those hidden areas and dry your bike thoroughly after washing it.
Lubricate!
Lubricate your chain and apply anti-corrosion oil to any metals that are more susceptible to corrosion, such as chrome.marine grade vinyl conditioner to prevent it from drying out during storage. Good lubrication will prevent moisture from penetrating and rust forming.
Fill up the Gas Tank
In just a matter of a few months, gasoline will begin to deteriorate, causing build up of gunk. Once that build up hits your carburettors, your engine could start to have problems. A lot of people say you should empty the gas tank prior to long term storage, but condensation and varnish can still build up inside the tank. Instead, fill the tank as full as possible and use a fuel stabilizer, like Sta-Bil. This additive will keep the fuel fresh and prevent corrosion. When long term storage is over, you’re not as likely to have any fuel problems when you start it up for the first time.
Tender the Battery
Remove the battery from the motorcycle, or at least disconnect the terminals. Keep the battery plugged into a battery tender, or trickle charger to keep it fully charged while the bike is not being ridden.
Drain the Carbs
If you have a fuel switch or petcock then you can drain the carburetors dry. Turn off the fuel and run the motorcycle until the engine runs out of gas. Draining the carbs dry will help prevent corrosion from building up over time.
Plug the Exhaust Pipe
Small critters, like mice, are always looking for dark, cozy places to make a home, so it’s a good idea to plug up any holes in your exhaust. Often tape will not be good enough. Moisture could cause the tape to come off, and any determined mouse can tear right through it. Instead, use something plastic, or rubber to insert into the pipes.
Protect your wheels
Ideally, you should put your motorcycle on its center stand, or on front and rear stands. If you can’t, then inflate your tires as much as possible according to the manufacturer. This will help prevent flat spots from forming. Invest in some wheel covers and keep them on the bike during long term storage. You can find a good set here on Amazon.
Keep it Covered
Again, a cover is an important part of long-term storage and you may want to consider a cover that is a bit more permanent.
The Bike Shield shell style motorcycle shelter.
Shell-style covers, or motorcycle shelters, come with a rigid frame that folds over the bike like a clam shell. It’s like a mini-garage for your motorcycle. The solid frame will protect it from wind and the waterproof material will protect it from the rain. They often come with vents to prevent condensation inside the shelter. You can also lock the shelter closed to prevent theft. The Bike Shield is an excellent choice in motorcycle shelters.
To wrap it all up, it looks like the most important thing to do when you store your motorcycle outside is to use a good, quality cover designed specifically for your bike. In winter, summer, long term or short term, covering your bike will provide you with the protection you’re looking for.
WD 40 seems to be a regular staple in most American garages and when I was a new motorcycle owner, it was the first thing I reached for when I needed to lube my chain.
Proper chain maintenance extending o ring chain links increase the shelf life of a roller chain. Inner chain links can be damaged if WD 40 is applied to the motorcycle. But I have since learned that there are much better options for chain maintenance. But, some still ask the question.
So, can I use WD 40 on my motorcycle chain?
It is highly recommended that you do not use Multi-Purpose WD 40 on the chain of your motorcycle. The WD stands for Water Displacement, and it is designed to disperse water away from metal parts to prevent rust.
It is not designed to be a lubricant and using it on your o ring chains can reduce the life of your chain in comparison with using lubricants designed specifically for motorcycles.
To understand how chain maintenance works and why it’s not the best solution to clean the chain links of the motorcycle, you need to understand the makeup of a chain. Motorcycle chains generally come in two types; with rubber seals or without rubber seals.
Both these types will need a two-part cleaning process that involves a clean and lube. But let’s start with WD 40 and why it is not a proper chain lube product to use.
WD 40 Motorcycle Chain Cleaning On Different Chain Types
Chains with No Seals
If you are using an all-metal chain, one with no seals, then you can use just about anything to clean away the dirt and grease. Heck, you could use a pressure washer if you really wanted to.
But, be extremely cautious about using products like gasoline or camp stove fuel as they are extremely volatile and the fumes can combust with the slightest spark. POOF…goodbye eyebrows. Kerosine is a much less dangerous cleaning solution and the fumes are less harsh, but still should be used in a well-ventilated area.
Powerful engine degreasers are ok to use if your chain is extremely dirty and grimy. After you clean a roller chain or an o ring chain that is all metal, you can give it a quick rinse off with water. Before applying lubrication, dry your chain with a towel to remove as much moisture as possible.
If there is any argument for using WD 40 multi-purpose on your chain, this would be a good time. It will help displace leftover water inside the pins and rollers. Wipe it clean again, and apply long lasting lubrication formula or wax as your final step. Do not use WD 40 as a lubricant.
Chains with Seals
Some motorcycle chains are built with a tiny rubber ring placed between the plate and the bushings. They come pre-lubricated from the manufacturer and the seals are designed to keep the lubricant in place. The seals come in two types, O-rings and X-rings.
They function slightly differently. O ring chain seal by applying pressure to them, and X-rings seal by twisting as the chain is in motion. Some will argue that X-rings are better, but they serve the same purpose, which is to prevent the original lubrication from leaking out.
Using heavy solvents or harsh cleaning methods can deteriorate the seals, and eventually cause the original lubrication, which was designed to be permanent, to leak out, reducing the life of your motorcycle.
So, one of your goals in motorcycle chain maintenance is to protect the ring seals and use a cleaner and lubricant that is designed to maintain these seals rather than destroy them. WD 40 was not designed for such a purpose and so it’s best to keep away from your motorcycle chain.
Best Motorcycle Chain Cleaner
To clean your motorcycle chain you need something that is strong enough to break away the grease, dirt and road grime, but gentle enough that it won’t erode the seals. Some de-greasers are much too harsh for this job. Here’s a list of products you should and should not use to clean motorcycle chains.
So, why not use engine degreasers on your motorcycle chain? While they are perfect for eating away stubborn grime like the stuff found on your car’s engine, they will also eat away at the rubber seals and your chain won’t last as long as it’s designed to last.
Since we are on the topic of WD-40, they do make a specialized line of motorcycle chain maintenance products that are designed to clean and lube your chain without damaging the seals. I’ve never used their products so I can’t speak to their effectiveness.
Choosing a brand of chain cleaner is a personal choice and, I often will use Maxima chain cleaner on my bikes. But, ask just about anyone who rides and maintains their own bike, Kerosine is arguably the best bike chain cleaner around. It’s cheap, safe, and works great.
Best Motorcycle Chain Lube
There are two different types of chain lube, oil, and wax.
They both work effectively at protecting your chain seals but, since they have different properties, they behave differently and are designed for use in different conditions.
Oil vs. Wax.
This is a common argument among motorcycle owners and both lubricants will do their job at protecting your chain, rear sprocket, and seals. Your best bet is to experiment with both conventional lube types to see which one works best for your riding style (dirt bike, commuter, track) and for the conditions in which you ride (rain, dry weather, mud). Just make sure there isn’t any excess lube build up which can happen with both oil and wax lubes.
How To Lubricate Your Motorcycle Chain?
In either instance, you should apply it properly to make sure it seeps into and around the seals and rollers. Ideally, apply the lube to a dry chain. If you use an oil-based lubricant, the chain can be cold. Spray the lube onto the inside of the chain and wipe away any excess oil that may be dripping off. Let the bike sit for 15 to 30 minutes before your ride to allow the oil to penetrate.
The same instructions apply to chain wax. Apply it to the inside of a clean, dry chain and allow it to sit for about 30 minutes so the wax can penetrate between the pins and rollers. If you are going to re-apply the wax after riding, do so when the chain is still warm from a ride. This will help be wax penetrates into the chain faster.
Personally, I ride a standard motorcycle that I use mostly for street riding in fair weather conditions and for occasional dirt roads. I try to avoid riding in the rain and doing water crossings so, you could say that I ride mostly in dry, and dusty conditions. That way my rear wheel & chain isn’t exposed to too much gunk.
I have been using chain wax for a few years and I’m very happy with it. However, I have found that if I overapply the wax, there will be some fling, so I’m careful to not use too much. But, I’ve never had a problem cleaning it off or having it gunk up as some people have expressed.
I’ve used oil-based lubricants in the past, but find there is a lot more flinging of excess oil when I ride and I tend to find more dirt and gunk on my swing arm and chain guard when I use oil-based lubricants. That’s one reason I switched to wax. Both options are solid choices for motorcycle chain maintenance.
Maxima is the brand of chain cleaner and chain wax that I’ve been using for several years and I am more than happy with it. There’s a nice bundle of Maxima products on Amazon here. Or, you can usually find them at most local motorcycle shops.
If you live in a humid climate, such as on the coast where rust is more of an issue, I’d recommend using chain wax instead of oil. The wax forms a good seal protecting the chain from moisture. Chain tension and chain slack also play an important part in how often motorcycle chain needs to be cleaned.
Related Questions
Are Chain Oilers a Good Idea?
An automatic chain oiler system is a mechanism that is installed on the motorcycle that adds a constant supply of oil, a drop at a time with an adjustable flow rate. Their claim is to increase your chain life. If you hate lubing your chain, if you live in a wet climate, or, if you are planning an extended trip where chain maintenance will be more of a hassle, a chain oilers would be a viable option.
How often should I clean my chain?
This will depend on what conditions you are riding in. For normal riding, motorcycle chains should be visually checked every few hundred miles. A quick wipe down before lubrication is often all it will need, but if it’s visibly filthy and gunked up, then you know it’s time to clean a motorcycle chain.
Cleaning your motorcycle chain & looking after your drive chain is key to proper motorcycle maintenance and can actually save you money and hassle in the future! I’ve also written a great article about how often you need to replace your motorcycle chain.
How often should I lubricate my chain?
You should apply a small amount of lubrication every 300 to 600 miles or after you clean it. This rule is standard for normal riding conditions. But, if you ride in harsh weather, live in a humid climate, you may have to lubricate it a bit more often. Motorcycle chain maintenance such as lubricating your chain is a really important habit to follow to ensure the proper running of your bike and helps you avoid future motorcycle repairs.
Best Chain Maintenance Gadgets
The Grunge Brush. A must-have in every motorcycle garage. Plastic bristles are more gentle on O-ring seals. A three-sided brush wraps around the chain.
Tirox 360 Degree Brush. This brush wraps around the entire chain making contact with every surface. Being able to brush the entire chain like this is a game-changer.
The Grease Ninja. This chain oiler is a cool little gadget that attaches to your favorite can of chain lube. It sits on top of the chain while applying an even flow of lube to the most important parts of the chain. Avoids overspray. Only available on their website.
Center Stand – A center stand for your motorcycle make it really easy to do motorcycle repairs, maintenance and in this instance cleaning your motorcycle chain.
Every once in a while I will take a friend out riding with me on the motorcycle, however, my friend, whomever it may be, doesn’t always have a helmet. So, I have to sometimes carry the helmet with me. My motorcycle has a top case which makes it easy to store a spare helmet. But, I started thinking about all the other ways you can carry a spare helmet and I came up with 12 of them.
Cargo Net
A cargo net is a woven net made of elastic cords with multiple hooks around the edges. They come in a variety of sizes with different style hooks, either plastic or metal with plastic coating; like a bungee cord. They are easy to use. You simply set the helmet on the pillion seat, throw the cargo net over it, and secure it to the motorcycle using the hooks. For a helmet, it’s best to get a smaller size net with smaller weave so it holds the helmet nice and tight. Make sure the strings of the net are placed evenly over the helmet so it doesn’t slip out. I’ve been pretty happy with this one from Amazon.
Modified Cargo Net
Some riders are not too crazy about placing hooks on their motorcycles and risking their paint or chrome getting scratched. One solution for this is to take the hooks off the cargo net. Remove the seat and hook one side of the cargo net under the rear seat and secure the seat back on the bike. Next, place helmet on seat and stretch the net over the helmet. Hook the other sides of the net at various points on the bike such as, around the rear foot peg, or under tail subframes spools. Potential problems with this method would be finding something to secure each point and will depend on what your motorcycle is equipped with.
Hook Under Passenger Seat
A lot of motorcycles come with helmet hooks under the passenger seat. There are a couple of ways to use this hook, but the best way is to hook the D-ring on your helmet strap over the hook, rest your helmet on the side of your bike, then secure the seat. A couple pro tips: the pull tab on one of the D rings will make it easier to get the ring on the hook. Also, be aware of where the helmet rests. If you’re riding, the helmet will likely move around and scratch your paint, so, consider placing a cloth underneath if necessary.
Strap it to a Back Rest
If you’re motorcycle has a back rest or sissy bar then you have a great place to secure an extra helmet. The easiest way is to simply secure the strap around a back rest post, however, the helmet is likely to move around alot while riding if you can’t get it tight enough. So, consider the additional security of a bungee cord or two.
Strap to Grab Bar
If your motorcycle has rear grab bars or hand holds, you could attach the helmet strap around it. Try and get it as tight as possible to reduce movement while the bike is motion. Also be aware that it could be resting on your bikes body work and you run the risk of scratching your paint. Of course, this all depends on how your motorcycle is designed. One last thing, make sure it’s not hanging so low that it touches your exhaust pipe.
Helmet Carrier Strap
Caddystrap, available on Amazon, is a nylon strap with two D-rings at one end. To use it, remove your rear seat, lay the strap across the bike, and secure your seat on top of it. Now, place the helmet on top of the rear seat with the chin strap together and tight. You can run the Caddystrap around the helmet’s chin strap, then pull it tight using the two D-rings.
Elastic Helmet Strap
This strap is similar to a cargo net, but it only has two hooks. Four strong elastic straps are gathered together and attached to a hook at each end. Secure the hooks to whatever is available on your motorcycle, such as grab handles or rear foot pegs. The four individual straps can be arranged to secure the helmet. The position of the straps is adjustable so you can arrange the straps to secure different helmet styles. You can pick them up on Amazon here.
Carry it on Your Arm
If you have absolutely no other place to carry a spare helmet while you ride, you could always slide it up on your arm. Hook the chin strap together, and slide the hemet up to about your elbow, like a giant elbow pad. This method would be ok for short distances, but I can’t imagine it’s the safest option. While it probably won’t impede your ability to control the bike, if you were to crash and land on that arm, I’d hate to imagine the bruises you’d have, if not worse. So, use this method at your own risk.
Backpack
Some motorcycle backpacks come equipped with a special pocket to carry a helmet. It’s a good thing that today’s helmets only way a few pounds so weight would not be an issue, however, the bulky size of a full face helmet seems a little awkward. But, I’ve never carried a helmet in a backpack while riding so I really can’t say. But, it’s definitely a viable method for transporting a spare helmet.
Oxford Lidlash Helmet Bag
The Lidlash helmet bag is made by Oxford Products, a UK company that sells a huge variety of outdoor gadgets including cool motorcycle stuff. Basically, the product is a bag with straps. You place your helmet in the bag and the straps fit under the rear seat, securing the helmet to the top of the seat. They can be found in the US at lockitt.com, or, if you live in the UK, go straight to the Oxford products website.
Saddle Bags
This one’s easy. If you have saddle bags large enough to fit a helmet, you’re problem is solved. Whether your bags are hard panniers, leather, or canvas saddle bags, as long as it’s a big enough space, you’re good to go. However, if you have smaller saddle bags and you are carrying a full-face helmet, this might not be the best solution. I use the SWMotech Blaze saddlebag system and, unfortunately, the opening on the top is not nearly enough to fit a full-face helmet.
Tail Bag
When I bought my Honda CB500X used it came with a Givi hard tail case. I’m not too crazy about the way it looks so I leave it home if I don’t need it. But, I have to admit, it’s the perfect place to stow away a full face helmet. Plus, if I’m carrying a passenger, it serves as a nice back rest. So, a tail bag or hard shell top case is a great way to carry an extra helmet. The added benefit of a hard shell case is security, as it can be locked.
So, there you have it. There are plenty of ways you can carry a spare helmet if you need to. So, unfortunately, if you don’t want to ride with a passenger, you can’t use the helmet excuse.
In this article I’m going to explain how to install a 12 volt power adapter on a motorcycle. I installed one on my 2014 Honda CB500X, but the techniques and concepts can be applied to just about any motorcycle.
A 12v power adapter can be mounted and wired in a lot of different ways, either connected directly to the battery, or integrated into the wiring and ignition switch. My goal was to flush mount the adapter and to hard wire it to the options connector located at the front of the motorcycle. But, I’ll talk about both methods.
What Type of Adapter to Buy
Your first step is to decide what kind of power adapter you want on your motorcycle. Think about how you want to use it and what you want to power up while riding. Do you want to power your phone, gps system, or both at the same time? Do you need a DC cigarette style adapter to power other accessories like an air compressor?
I opted for the cigarette lighter style for more diversity. I have an air compressor that only runs with that style of connecter. A simple USB adapter plugged into the outlet will allow me to power my phone and anything else that connects with USB.
Another consideration is weather proofing. If your adapter will be exposed to rain then you should buy a marine grade adapter. The wiring to the adapter will be sealed and they come with a waterproof cover. These are perfect if you’re mounting it to the handlebars or flush mounted to plastics on the dash. But, if you’re keeping it under your seat, then any simple style of adapter should work fine.
Power adapters also come in combination of cigarette lighter style with dual USB connectors. I would have preferred this type of convenience if I had the space for it. In any case, whatever you choose, power adapters are inexpensive and can easily be found on Amazon. You can check out the current prices here.
Why an Inline Fuse is Important
It’s recommended to use an adapter that has an inline fuse. Why? A fuse will protect your motorcycle’s electrical circuit from being completely destroyed if there is a short. Blowing a fuse instead of your electronics, is a much simpler and cheaper repair. If you don’t purchase an adapter with a fuse…wait…why would you do that? Just buy one with an inline fuse.
Decide Where to Mount
Your next decision is to decide where to mount the adapter. Your options depend greatly on what type of motorcycle you ride, how much space you have up front, and how accessible you want the adapter to be while you ride.
Under the seat is a very common place to stash an adapter and is, by far, the easiest install job. Use a couple of zip ties to keep it from rattling around too much and you’re good to go. Keep in mind that every time you want to plug or unplug something, you will have to remove the seat. So, determine for yourself if this is going to be a hassle, or no big deal.
Another common option is to mount it to your handlebars. This is a simple install and many adapters come with a handlebar mount, like this dual USB adapter. You should consider how much space you have available on your bars, especially if you want to add other accessories to the bars, such as a phone mount, or GPS navigation.
The last option is to flush mount the adapter to give it a factory installed look. This will likely involve drilling a hole into the plastics of your motorcycle which is always a bit nerve wracking. But, when it’s done right, you end up with something that looks great and functions properly. Flush mounting is the option I chose for my motorcycle and I’ll cover how I did it.
Direct Connect or Switched?
The next decision you need to make is whether your going to connect the adapter directly to your battery terminals, or hard wire it to the ignition switch circuit.
A direct connection to the battery is the easiest option as it doesn’t involve any splicing or soldering of pin connectors. If you choose this option you need to be careful in preventing parasitic draw. If you leave a USB adapter plugged in to your battery, it can draw enough power to drain your battery overnight even when the ignition is off. But, if you’re vigilant about removing all electronics when you turn off your motorcycle, then this would be the quickest, easiest install option.
Integrating the connector into the ignition switch circuit is a little more involved but is really not as difficult as you might think. Even if you’ve never done this kind of work, if you take your time to understand what’s going on, you’ll be able to wire up a connector with no problems.
So, now that you know what type of adapter you want, where you want to mount it, and how you want to connect it to the power source, let’s go through the all the steps.
How to Connect a Power Adapter Directly to your Battery
Let’s start with the easy install, directly to the battery terminals. I would recommend installing a simple cigarette lighter style adapter, or purchasing an adapter that has a power switch built in. The switch allows you to cut power to the adapter so it won’t drain the battery. The procedure is simple, and if you’ve ever installed an SAE connector for a battery tender, then you already know how to do this. You will need:
12V Power Adapter or USB adapter with positive and negative ring connectors.
Philips Screw Driver
Zip ties
Steps:
Access your battery. This procedure depends on your motorcycle but you’ll need access to both positive and negative terminals.
Remove the negative terminal screw and place the negative (black) wire to the terminal, and secure it with the same screw.
Do the exact same thing with the positive terminal and positive (red) wire.
Test by turning on the ignition and plugging in a USB adapter. If the light comes on, it’s working. Now, plug in something, like your phone, to make sure it’s charging.
You can choose this wiring option no matter where you want to mount the adapter. You can keep it under the seat, flush mount it to the plastics, or mount it to the handlebars. Keep reading for mounting instructions.
How to Wire the Adapter to an Existing Options Connector
A lot of motorcycles, especially touring bikes and adventure bikes, will come with an options connector pre-wired in line with the ignition switch. Connecting a power adapter here is a very convenient way to do this job and this is the procedure I chose to do on my CB500X. This project will require some soldering, but, don’t worry, it’s not as difficult as you might think.
What You Need
12v power adapter with 6 to 12 inches of wire available
Connector pins and seals
Soldering iron
60/40 solder with rosin core
Small zip ties
Electrical tape
Wire cutters/crimpers
Step 1: Find the Options Connector
I highly recommend you purchase a service manual for your motorcycle, or, at the very least, get ahold of the wiring diagram specifically for your year, make and model in addition to the European or US edition.
When looking at the wiring diagram for my motorcycle, I discovered that it has two option connectors, one at the rear, and one at the front. The diagram shows that the connector at the front has three pins with different colored wires. The green wire is always a ground wire, or negative. The red/violet wire (on my bike) is the positive connection and the third blue wire is connected in line with the headlamp’s high beams. I found this by following the blue line on the diagram.
Wiring diagram for front options connector, 2014 Honda CB500X.
So, this diagram confirmed that I only need to use two of the three connections and I don’t need to worry about the blue wire, just the positive and negative. It’s a good idea to take a few minutes and study your wiring diagram to get to know the color code and the symbols.
Now that you’ve confirmed your motorcycle has an options connector, you need to actually find it on your bike. It will typically be sitting somewhere behind the instrument panel or cluster, near the headlamp. Get a flashlight and start looking underneath and anywhere around that area. You are looking for a bundle of wires and a connector that has wiring only at one end with the other end empty. This process will depend greatly on your motorcycle and you may be required to remove some plastics to gain access. Follow the procedure laid out in the service manual for your bike.
Once you’ve located your options connector, you’re going to want to remove the blank side so you can solder the adapter to it. But, before you remove it, mark the connector so that you know where to put the positive and negative wires. I marked mine with red fingernail polish, the same color as my toes. Hey, the sharpie wasn’t showing up on the black connector, ok! You can use whatever you want.
Step 2: Solder the Adapter to the Connector
For this step you will need to purchase pin terminals that fit your specific connector. In doing this project I learned that there are different sizes and styles and you can’t just go down to your local auto parts store and buy some pins. However, Corsa Technic carries a huge line of electrical components for all types of motorsport vehicles. If you can’t find the information you need in your service manual, or in a forum, I recommend you give them a call so they can help you find the terminal pin you need.
My motorcycle used the Sumi-A Pin1 and the Sumi-SL2 seals. Pro tip: buy three times more than you need, or just get an even dozen. They are so inexpensive, it’s worth having a few extra, especially if you’ve never done this before so, if you mess up your first try, you won’t be at a stand still.
Steps for Soldering the Pin Terminals
You should have the following items ready: Power adapter with clean wires at one end; hot soldering iron; solder; pin terminals; seals; wire strippers; and a clean work surface.
Wires and pin connectors ready to be soldered.
Place one seal on the end of each wire and slide them down out of the way.
Using your wire strippers, strip about 1/4 inch from the end of each wire. Always start with a fresh section of wire and not wire that has been exposed. This will make soldering easier.
Place the end of the wire to the pin connector and crimp it down just enough so it stays in place.
Solder the wire to the pin connector.
Make sure the tip of your soldering iron is clean
Hold the tip of the iron to the wire and pin to heat it up. Then, apply the solder to the wire, not the iron. The wire will draw the solder in.
If your solder is not sticking or it’s just running off in clumps, you’re most likely using old solder or solder without flux rosin. The rosin prevents oxidation which can build up in a matter of seconds when metal is heated. Rosin is necessary to make the solder stick to metal. So, use new 60/40 solder with a rosin core.
After the solder has cooled you should have a secure connection and a pin terminal that is ready for the connector.
Do these steps for both ends of the wire.
Step 3: Connect the Pin Terminals to the Connector
Connector with positive terminal marked. Ready for the wired pins.
The next step is to plug the pin terminals into the connector. Refer to the marks you made to indicate which is positive and negative. You may need to use a small screwdriver to push the pin into the connector until you hear it click. This will indicate a secure and permanent connection.
Next, slide the seals up the wire and tuck them into the open space at the end of the wire. This will prevent moisture from getting to the connection. If you like, you can secure it all with electrical tape, especially if you’re not 100% confident your pin terminals are perfectly clipped in (like me).
How to Wire an SAE Plug to the Options Connector
In determining what I wanted to do with my own motorcycle, I decided to connect an SAE plug to the options connector as opposed to directly wiring the power adapter as described above. I chose this because, in the future, I may want to connect other accessories to that connector using a splitter.
I used a spare SAE plug that came with my battery tender, removed the alligator clips at the ends and wired it to the pin terminals exactly as described above. If you go with this option, be careful to check the polarity of the plug. The female side should be the positive connection and the male side should be negative.
How to Wire an Adapter if you Don’t Have an Options Connector
So, what if your motorcycle doesn’t come with a pre-wired options connector? In this case, you can hard wire the adapter in line with the ignition switch wiring. Your first step in doing this is to find a live wire that is in line, or switched on and off, with your ignition. This can be a bit tricky, but you can use your wiring diagram to locate what it’s attached to and what color it is. That’s a good start.
Once you’ve found a live wire, your next step is to splice into that wire and add a second wire running off of it. I saw a nifty little trick in a video somewhere for testing to see if you have the right wire. If you stick a needle through the insulation of the wire you want to test, just far enough to make contact with the wiring inside, you can touch a meter to the needle to see if you get power when the ignition switch is off and on. This is a great way to test a wire without cutting it.
Splice Into Positive Wire
Let’s assume at this point you’ve found the positive wire you need. Now you need to splice into it and connect a second wire that will power your adapter plug. There are a couple of ways to do this.
In either case, you will need a strand of wire that is long enough to run from your power source to the front of the motorcycle where you want to mount the adapter. This will be the positive wire. The negative wire, or ground, will run from the power adapter to a point on the frame of the motorcycle. Search around on your motorcycle as there is likely a spot where several ground wires converge and connect to the frame.
First way is to use a plastic connector that you crimp onto the wiring, then cover it with a heat sleeve to protect it from water. This is by far the most simple, in my opinion, because you don’t have to fire up the soldering iron. The second method is to solder a second wire the the live wire, and protect it with a heat sleeve. Either method should work fine, just make sure you cut the live wire leaving yourself enough space to tap into it.
Test It!
Now it’s time to make sure it works. Do this step before you start putting anything back together, or before you start securing long strands of wiring. If something goes wrong, you don’t want to take everything apart again.
It is recommended that you use a multimeter, or volts meter to test the adapter. Why use a multimeter? Why not just plug in your phone and see if it charges? Because, if you wired it incorrectly, you could damage whatever you plug into it. So, instead, set your meter to volts, place the positive lead to the center of the adapter and the negative lead to the side of the adapter (don’t let them touch each other). With the ignition OFF, you should NOT be seeing any voltage. Turn on the ignition, and the meter should jump to 12 volts, or around 11.9. That’s what you want to see. Now you can test it with your phone.
If you installed a USB style adapter instead of the cigarette lighter style, you don’t need to use a meter. A LED light should light up when you turn on the ignition. If it does, test it with your phone, or other device, to make sure it charges. If everything tests out good, you can move on to mounting the adapter the way you want it.
Secure the Wiring
Now that you have a working connection, it’s time to route the wire and secure it with zip ties. If you spliced into a wire near the battery or fuse box, you’re likely going to have to route the wire under your tank. Best bet is to follow the existing wiring harness and use zip ties to secure it.
Mount the Power Adapter
If you chose to mount the power adapter to your handle bars, you’re nearly finished with your project. But, there are a couple things to look for after mounting it. Turn your handlebars all the way in both directions. Make sure the mounting doesn’t interfere with anything while you turn the bars. Also, make sure the wiring connected to the back of the adapter isn’t pulling when you turn the bars. Leave enough wire to accommodate turning the bars.
Flush Mounting the Power Adapter
Flush mounting the power adapter give your motorcycle a nice, tidy, professional look. When looking for a place to flush mount it, make sure there is ample space behind the panel you want to mount it to. For instance, on my CB500X, I want to mount it on the right side of the instrument panel. There’s a perfect little flat spot. However, just behind that spot is the turn signal light and it doesn’t allow enough space for the adapter. So, I opted to attach it to the headlamp access panel.
Once you figure out where to put it, the next step is to drill a hole in the plastic. This is always nerve wracking. What if I screw it up? What if it doesn’t work there? It took me quite a while to muster up the courage to do it. But, think it through and drill with confidence.
Use a small hole saw bit to make a nice, clean hole. If you don’t have a hole saw, consider getting set like this one on Amazon. It’s nice to have when you need them. But, if you don’t have a hole saw, do like the rest of us and use a normal drill bit to punch out the hole you need.
I decided to drill a series of small holes around the circle using my dremel. Then I used a sandpaper bit to increase the size of the hole gradually, until I got it to just the right size. I affixed the ring connector on the back side to secure the adapter and it looks better than I expected.
Re-Attach the Covers and Panels
The last step is to put it all back together. Reverse the steps you took when removing any panels. Be very careful to make sure any plastic clips or tabs are in place before you push and pound. I have found that tabs break more often when I’m putting the plastics back on the bike as opposed to removing them, so, take your time.
Stand Back and Admire Your Work
If you did everything right what you should have is a 12 volt power adapter flush mounted or handlebar mounted. All of your plastics should be back in place with nothing rattling and no extra screws in your pockets. Test the connector one more time to make sure nothing went haywire at the last minute. Use the multimeter to test it with the ignition off as well as on. If everything is working as expected, pat yourself on the back and pour yourself a cold one.
So, as you can see, this project is not super difficult, but it does take some careful planning and, in the end, you have the perfect place to power up your phone or GPS.
Like any other skill, motorcycle riding skills can be lost if you don’t take time to practice them. Even if you ride often, you may not be using all the basic or more advanced skills in every ride, such as swerving to avoid an obstacle, emergency stopping, or making a U-turn. In this article I talk about why we need slow riding skills and how you can keep those skills sharp.
How it’s used, or where these skills will come in handy in real life. Like, traffic jams, parking lots, city riding, turning left at a green light, busy urban street.
Why You Need to Practice Slow Riding Skills
If you do any kind of riding on any kind of road, you will at some point need to use your slow riding skills. It may be in a parking lot, pulling into a gas station, or making a u-turn. Taking time to practice slow riding skills will ensure that those skills will be there when you need them and when you least expect having to use them.
Another good time to practice is whenever you get a new motorcycle. While on a group ride I watched one rider struggle to turn her motorcycle around in a crowded space. The bike was too big and heavy for her to push and she wasn’t comfortable with her ability to turn while moving slowly. Of course, we didn’t hesitate to give her a hand, but I couldn’t help but notice that other riders, with equally heavy motorcycles, were able to maneuver at slow speeds. I came to the conclusion that, even though she was a good rider, she was on a new bike and she hadn’t taken the extra time to work on those skills with her new motorcycle.
How to Ride a Motorcycle Slowly
Riding a motorcycle slowly involves the following skill:
Counter Steering
Counter Balance
Friction Zone of Clutch
Body Position
Lean Angle
Understanding There Common Terms
Below are some definitions you need to understand when practicing your slow riding skills. These tips will help you in your ability to control the motorcycle like a pro.
Counter Steering
Counter steering is the concept of turning left to go right. Yep, you turn your handlebars slightly to the left, before you start to turn right. What happens is this: in order for your motorcycle to turn at higher speeds, it needs to lean. So, to help your motorcycle fall into a lean, the front wheel will have to turn the opposite direction very slightly, then the motorcycle will begin to lean. It’s a very small, subtle movement that riders do without even thinking about it, but it’s a good idea to understand the concept.
Counter-Balance
The definition of counterbalancing is a weight that balances another weight. On a motorcycle it means shifting your body weight to counterbalance the lean of the motorcycle. This is important to understand when you are making turns at slow speeds. It keeps the center of gravity in a straight line even when the motorcycle is leaning.
Friction Zone
The friction zone is the point at which the clutch lever begins to engage the clutch. It’s where you begin to feel the motorcycle move when you let out the clutch lever. If you’ve been riding for a while, the friction zone isn’t something you think about. You automatically know where it is. However, when you start doing slow speed exercises, you’re going to become very familiar with that friction zone and you’ll need to use it to your advantage.
Body Position
This goes hand-in-hand with counter balance, but there’s more to it. Let’s say you’re turning left at slower than 10mph. To lean the motorcycle you will adjust your body position to the right side of the seat. You could even go as far as sliding one cheek off, although that’s not always necessary. Position yourself closer to the tank, hug the tank with your knees, and keep your feet firmly placed on the pegs. Slight movements in your hips and lets, as well as pressure on the pegs can help you make little adjustments when counterbalancing. Your arms should be relaxed on the handlebars.
Lean Angle
This is the amount of lean your motorcycle will do when turning. Your motorcycle is capable of more lean angle than you probably realize, even at slow speeds, as long as you are practicing good body position and counter balance. If you’ve ever watched those police motorcycle competitions, you’ve seen just how far a bike can lean at low speeds.
Tips for Practicing
Before starting a practice session, take some time on the simple exercise of basic clutch control to re-introduce yourself to the friction zone. Ride in a straight line, let out the clutch slowly while smoothly rolling on the throttle, just like back in the day when you first learned to ride. Do several sets of starts and stops to get familiar with your clutch/throttle control again.
Hover your foot over the rear brake and apply slight pressure when needed. This will help keep you balanced and helps reduce dip in the front wheel when you brake.
Keep your eyes up and look out far in front of you. Avoid looking down at the ground directly in front of your bike.
Keep off the front brake, but instead use your clutch, throttle, and rear brake to control your speed.
Good throttle control means you roll on the throttle instead of jerking it, right? Well, when riding slow, speed control comes with clutch control and the friction zone. If you watch slow riding competitions, you’ll notice that you can hear the rider revving up the engine to just over idle speed. They are using the clutch to adjust their speed. Good clutch control is the key to good slow riding.
Parking Lot Practice Exercises
The MSF course has a specific set of exercises to teach you the basics of riding. These are excellent skills to practice, but it’s difficult to duplicate the exact layout of the exercises without one of their lots with all their painted lines. But we can simulate those exercises using any standard parking lot. In addition, there are more advanced exercises that are not included in the MSF course that you can practice.
When looking for a parking lot to practice in, choose one that is preferably un-used, or empty. At least find one that has a large, empty section where you know you will be out of the way. A closed business is usually a good bet. Choose a lot with no dividers, lamp posts, or trees mixed in. Also, choose a lot with straight parking spaces, instead of at an angle.
Plan on spending at least a few hours on this. It will take some time to walk out the measurements and set up cones. In fact, invite your riding buddies along and make a day of it. The set up will go faster, you can critique each other, and help each other out is someone drops their bike.
The point of these exercises is to learn how to handle your motorcycle at slow speeds rather than trying to complete them as fast as possible. As you become more proficient in your slow riding skills, you’ll find that you will naturally complete them at slightly faster speeds.
The Layout
To lay out the exercises, use the lines already painted on the pavement. A standard parking lot space is 10 feet wide by 20 feet long. The exercises I’ve laid out here are designed to use the existing lines as your markers.
However, you can use something to mark out the exercise patterns, such as disk cones (like these on Amazon.) The benefit of using cones, or some other kind of marker, is that you know when you’ve made a mistake. When you hit a cone, you know when you’ve done it wrong.
Without cones, it’s more like guesswork. Either way, cones or no cones, you’ll be getting good practice in. Besides, out in the real world, there aren’t any cones.
Slow, Straight Line
The purpose of this one is to ride in a straight line, as slow as possible. Use the edge of the parking spaces as your guide.
Keep your eyes up and focus far ahead of you
Use the clutch friction zone to control your speed
Apply slight pressure on the rear brake for balance.
Slow Weave
Set the cones in a straight line about 10 feet apart. Starting at one end, ride through the cones, weaving left, right, left, etc. Keep your engine at idle speed and use your clutch to control your speed. Use counterweight body position and focus your eyes down the line of cones.
Avoid looking directly down at the cones as you ride past them. If you find yourself weaving too far out, check your focal point and your body position.
If you want to make the slow weave more difficult, try to weave between every space, rather than every other space.
Offset Weave
Use two sections of the parking lot and place the cones as shown in the diagram. For this exercise you want to move slowly through the cones.
As soon as you the first cone your head and eyes should be focused on the next cone.
Avoid looking directly down at the cones you’re riding through
Adjust your speed using your clutch and rear brake
The people who have the most trouble with this exercises are the people who constantly look directly forward and down in front of their wheel. This doesn’t allow them to prepare for the next turn.
When you reach one cone, your head and eyes should be already turned and focused on the next one. Always look where you want to go.
If you want the offset weave to be more difficult, try weaving between every other parking space instead of every third space as shown in the diagram.
Turning Right and Left
This practice exercise will help you make sharp left and right turns starting from a complete stop. This skill can come in handy in a lot of traffic situations.
From a stand still, with one foot on the ground, ride the length of one space and immediately turn left, then ride down the length of the parking lot. Swing around to the starting point again, and practice a right turn.
Basic U-Turn
In a parking lot, start off by doing the u-turn in the area between three parking sections as shown in the illustration. The orange dot represents a cone that will act as your focal point.
Your goal is to make the U-turn within that area only. The most important tip for making a U-turn is to keep your head turned over your shoulder and look at the center focal point. Practice this exercise turning both left, and then right.
Tight U-Turn
Once you’ve practiced a standard U-Turn and it becomes comfortable, you can tighten the turn radius. Practice these tight U-Turns in both directions. Place a cone in the center for your focal point.
If you’re not using cones, pick a spot at the center of the turn to focus on. When riding on public roads, you will have to pick your own random focal point, so doing this exercise without a cone is good practice.
Figure 8
For a basic figure 8, enter in a straight line, then, as you begin the first turn, focus at the center of the turn. As soon as you are 3/4 the way through the first turn, quickly change your focus and turn your head toward the center of the second circle.
The diagram shows a more difficult figure 8 pattern between four parking spaces. If you’re not ready for tight turns, spread the circles out into a wider area. Try to make your figure 8 smaller as you get more comfortable.
Key Hole
The keyhole starts with a straight line, followed by a quick right turn and and a wide left hand circle. Finish it off with a sharp right turn and go straight down the line again to finish the pattern.
Practice the keyhole going in directions around the circle.
Lolli-Pop
The Lollipop is very much like the Keyhole except, you will weave between the cones before you enter the circle. The graphic shown is not perfect, but you get the gist.
Practice the lollipop in both directions to practice the circle going to the right and to the left. Try to stay within the parameters of the parking spaces.
In this pattern you will practice sharp left and right hand turns. Remember to always look where you want to go. Once you’ve started a turn, direct your focus on the next turn. Reverse the direction to practice sharp right turns as well.
Practice, Practice, Practice
The more you practice these exercises, the better you’ll get. Remember, the purpose for these drills are to sharpen your slow riding skills, not to do the exercise as fast as possible.
With good slow riding skills you will be ready to get yourself out of difficult situations either in traffic, or on a narrow country road. When you’ve perfected your slow riding skills then it’s time to learn the smoothest way to stop your motorcycle.
Whether you ride a motorcycle for fun, for long distance travel, or for commuting, you will be riding in all sorts of traffic situations from bumper to bumper freeway traffic to congested city streets. Mixing and mingling with automobiles puts you at greater risk of an accident, so it’s important to stay alert. Here are some tips on how to safely ride a motorcycle in traffic.
One tip that applies to riding in traffic in all situations is to try to anticipate what other drivers are going to do. This takes a certain amount of mental alertness. Always scan your environment for potential obstacles. Cars can enter the roadway from driveways, side streets and intersections and you should always assume they don’t see you.
Another general tip is to avoid riding if you are angry or upset. If you’re commuting home from a really lousy day at the office, take a few minutes to wind down, breath deep and relax before you jump on your motorcycle for the ride home. Maintaining this relaxed nature and attitude while riding in traffic will help get you home safe. Once you’re home, you can pour yourself a drink, let it all out and vent all you want.
Freeway Riding
Freeways, highways or interstates are actually some of the safest places to ride, although new riders seem to fear it the most. It’s safer because everyone is going the same direction at relatively the same speed. There are no traffic lights or people trying to turn in front of you. But, you still need to practice certain skills to ride safely on the freeway.
Your choice of lanes and your lane position can help keep you safer. When you enter the freeway, move over to the far left lane as soon as it is safe to do so. Stay in the far left lane, closest to the center divider, commonly known as the fast lane or the number one lane. Here, you only have to worry about traffic to the right of you and you only need to check one mirror instead of two. There is a reduced risk of someone swerving in front of you to catch an exit. And, you’re less likely encounter someone merging into you when entering the freeway from an on-ramp.
Stay out of a driver’s blind spot. Position yourself so that you can see their face in their sideview mirror. That means they can see you when they look in their mirror. Don’t linger and ride beside a car or truck if you can help it. If you find yourself riding alongside another vehicle, accelerate ahead of it to avoid a collision if the car decides to change lanes and they don’t see you.
Large, big rig trucks will have a much harder time seeing you on a motorcycle. You should assume they don’t see you at all. If you’re passing a big rig, accelerate past it quickly and do not move in front of it until you are at least a few car lengths ahead. Truck drivers can’t see you when you are riding directly in front of the truck. That’s one of the most dangerous places you can be. So, when it comes to big rigs, pass them when necessary, but stay clear of them as much as possible.
Use the high occupancy vehicle (HOV) lanes or car pool lanes. Motorcycles are allowed to use these lanes without a passenger, so take advantage of it. The congestion in these lanes is often less. Keep in mind that some cities have designated entrance and exit points for HOV lanes and drivers, including yourself, are not allowed to cross over into the HOV lanes outside these designated areas. However, since there are no physical barriers to prevent people from doing so, cars don’t always obey those lines and there is always a risk of someone entering the lane in front of you.
Position yourself on either the left side or right side of the lane. This part of the road is generally cleaner with less debris and oil. It also allows you to swerve out of the way if traffic stops suddenly.
Never follow a vehicle too close. Increased following distance is not only to prevent you from slamming into a car’s rear end when it stops, but to also be prepared to react if the car runs over an obstacle. A car or truck can easily run over debris in the roadway, such as a board or a piece of tire tread. But on a motorcycle, this obstacle could be a disaster. Leaving yourself ample room will give you more time to react in this situation.
City Streets
Riding on busy city streets can introduce a whole new set of fears and anxiety. Tall buildings towering over head, busses and taxis merging in and out of traffic, and the confusion of one-way streets can put any motorcycle rider on edge. But, many of the same safe riding techniques used on the freeway can apply in a busy city.
While it’s difficult to maintain a safe distance behind cars in a crowded city, try to keep a safe distance based on your speed and position yourself to one side or the other of your lane to avoid being hit from behind.
Be extra aware of your surroundings and try to anticipate what drivers are going to do. Look at a car’s front wheels for signs of changing lanes and watch for turn signals. If one lane is extremely congested, but the other lanes are clear, you can be certain someone from that crowded lane is going to jump over into the clear lane. If there’s a truck blocking a lane, you can bet that the car behind it will want to change lanes to avoid it. When you start recognizing these potential behaviors, you’ll be in a better position to avoid them.
One-way streets can be tricky, but they can also be a blessing. Riding in the center lane of a one-way street helps reduce encounters with turning cars or parked cars pulling out. Look for traffic signs that will tell you which streets are one-way and which direction traffic flows. One clue, if you don’t see a sign, is to look at how the cars are parked. If they’re all parked in the same direction on both sides of the streets, then it’s a one-way street.
Downtown city streets, especially cities with subway systems, will often metal grates on the road. Be aware that these metal grates can be slick if they’re wet. Keep your motorcycle straight and upright when riding over them, and keep your grip relaxed.
Be careful when riding alongside rail road or trolly tracks. Not only can they be slick when they’re wet, they can upset your front wheel if you get it caught in the rut. Especially at slow speeds, this can cause your bike to go down. If you need to change lanes over parallel tracks, do so at an angle as much as possible. Get your front wheel past the tracks at an angle, and the fatter, rear wheel will follow.
Large cities with bus transit systems often have designated bus lanes. While it varies from city to city, motorcycles are usually not allowed to travel in these lanes. You can enter the lane to make a turn or to pull in and out of a parking space if necessary, but they are reserved for buses, taxis and emergency vehicles. So, while it’s tempting to take advantage of the open lane, it could cost you a ticket.
Suburban Streets
Riding in the suburbs is like a combination of city riding and highway riding. The main roads are often two or more lanes wide with signal lights at the intersections. There are often business driveways where cars are pulling in and out. On these roads, it’s best to position yourself in the center of the roadway, away from the edges, giving you more time to react. If you see a car waiting to pull out onto the road, assume it doesn’t see you. Rest your fingers on you brake and clutch levers and have an escape route ready.
Watch out for the dreaded left hand turn lane. This is one of the most common causes of motorcycle accidents; a car turning left in front of you. Do everything you can to stay visible to oncoming traffic wanting to turn left. Be aware of your surroundings. Is there a car next to you? Can you maneuver out of the way in time? Cover your front brake and horn and be ready always assuming the car does not see you.
That’s a lot to think about when driving on suburban streets and going through intersections, but those thoughts happen in a matter of seconds and with a little practice they become second nature.
When riding in residential areas, keep your speed down as there will be more activity in the streets, especially in summer when kids are out playing. While going a measly 25 miles per hour may seem daunting, it’s safer and better for our reputation as riders.
If your daily commute takes you past a school, be extra cautious. Parents will be pulling in and own of the school parking lot dropping off their kids. Other kids will be crossing the streets and, believe me, they are NOT paying attention to traffic. So, it’s up to you to watch out for them. If traffic builds up in front of a school, don’t get impatient and zip around the cars. You never know when a kid is going to jump out. If a school zone slows you down and gets on your nerves, consider changing your route to avoid it.
Do Loud Pipes Help?
There is a common belief that loud pipes save lives; that loud pipes will alert cars that a motorcycle is close by. There is a lot of debate about this and riders will generally take one side or the other. However, there is no proof that this concept makes you safer. Let’s look at a few reasons why.
There’s no guarantee that a car driver will hear you if their windows are up, music is playing, or on the phone.
Exhaust pipes are facing towards the back of the bike, so the sound travels behind you, not in front of you. A car won’t hear your pipes until you are right up on it.
Sudden loud noises can startle some drivers and cause them to swerve, unintentionally towards you.
Use your horn. The horn is a forward facing sound that will do a better job at alearting cars to your presence.
Lane Splitting or Lane Filtering
Lane splitting and lane filtering are actually two different things. Lane splitting is when a motorcycle rides between the lanes of moving traffic. Lan filtering is when a motorcycle moves between stationary cars to get to the front of the line at a stop light, for example.
In european and asian countries, lane splitting and filtering are not only legal, it is expected. Riders do it all the time and car drivers are used to it and accept it. However, in the United States, for some reason there is an absolute disdain for lane splitting. Drivers hate it, cops hate it (ok, not all drivers and cops hate it, but still…). It seems like the U.S. has yet to catch up with the rest of the world to see the benefits of lane splitting.
California is the only state that legally allows it, however, there are some states that allow it even though it is not officially on the books. Those states, as of 2018, are
Montana
New Mexico
Texas
Oklahoma
Arkansa
Missouri
Mississippi
Ohio
Kentucky
North Carolina
Delaware
Why U.S. drivers have a hard time with motorcycles splitting lanes is a bit of a mystery. Could it be that drivers are so agitated being stuck in traffic that they feel a twinge of jealousy when a motorcycle zooms by? Could it be that irresponsible riders tarnished our reputation by splitting at dangerous speeds? Who knows. But the truth is, lane splitting is safe when done properly. It reduces the risk of being rear ended and has resulted in 30% fewer deaths in California compared to other states that don’t allow lane splitting.
Splitting lanes can be a little nerve wracking at first, but with a little practice, it’s the best way to avoid traffic jams and do your part to keep traffic flowing. There is actually a lot more room between cars than you might realize. But, there are a few thing to be aware of when lane splitting. The California Highway Patrol has posted guidelines to help you do it safely.
Evaluate the entire area, all of your surroundings.
Do not split at more than 10 miles per hour faster than the traffic around you.
Do not split if traffic is moving faster than 30 miles per hour.
Be aware of road conditions in between lanes. Sometimes there can be wide cracks in between lanes that can catch your front tire causing you to swerve.
It’s safer to lane split between the #1 and #2 lanes.
Do not split between large trucks or wide vehicles. If you can’t fit, don’t split.
It is illegal to ride on the shoulder, and doing so is not considered lane splitting.
Try to anticipate what a driver is going to do. Look for turn signals, turned tires or changes in a driver’s head position (are they looking back to check for clearance?). This could mean they are changing lanes.
Keep two fingers on the brake and clutch levers as well as a thumb on the horn. This will keep you ready to react if needed.
No Road Rage – Let it Go
Riding in traffic also requires a little extra patience. At one point or another a car is going to cut you off, turn left in front of you, or be a complete idiot. If you have a close call, it’s better to just let it go. Don’t let yourself get a case of road rage, which can cause us to ride more aggressively. I know, we’d all love to smash that guys side mirror, but doing stuff like that will only escalate an issue and cause more problems.
Anticipating what a vehicle will do comes with experience; the more you ride, the better you get. And, as always, never ride if you’ve been drinking, and always wear your gear.
Like most riders, I love riding my motorcycle on twisty canyon roads. Come to think of it, for most riders that’s one of the great pleasures of riding: canyon carving. But all too often, novice riders will test their new skills or their new motorcycle on these roads with disastrous consequences.
Twisting mountain roads are the most challenging and dangerous roads you can ride on your motorcycle. They can be very technical, unpredictable, and are filled with obstacles. So it makes sense to learn proper techniques for riding these roads, and to practice those skills responsibly so that you enjoy your ride and make it home in one piece.
Before You Ride the Twisties
Like every good ride it all starts before you leave your driveway. Make sure your bike is in good mechanical condition, brakes are working, chain is clean and lubed, nothing’s leaking, etc. Make sure you are also prepared for the ride. If you’re not up for a challenging ride, feeling under the weather, hungover, angry or upset, consider saving the ride for another day. But, if you’re feeling good and mentally alert, then go for it.
Wear all you gear and get dressed for the slide. This is not the place to skimp on riding gear. Wear leather if you got it, good boots, gloves, jacket with armor and good knee protection. If you’re going to be pushing yourself, be prepared.
Tire Pressure
There’s a lot of debate about the perfect tire pressure and it is somewhat of a personal preference and can vary with every type of tire and motorcycle combination. So, I’m not going to make any recommendations in this article. But, there are a few things you should know about tire pressure.
Every tire manufacturer has a different recommended tire pressure which will vary depending on the terrain. Know the tires you’re running and look up the manufacturer recommendations for technical street riding. Check your owners manual for the right pressure and don’t go by the psi printed on the sidewall of the tire. That number is the maximum psi your tire can handle, and will be too much for a good ride.
Under-inflated tires will result in a larger contact area, which is great if you’re riding dirt, but not so great if riding on asphalt. Your bike will be harder to handle and sloppy, with heavy steering. Conversely, if they are over inflated, you will have less traction.
Check your tire pressure when the tires are cold to get an accurate reading. Since many riders like to adjust their tire pressure by as little as 1/2 psi, it’s important to use a good tire pressure gauge like this one on Amazon.
Take a Practice Lap
Often motorcyclists will have a few favorite roads where they can run laps. So, before you start pushing yourself, take a practice lap at a reasonable speed and at about 50% of your riding ability. This lap will allow you to inspect the road conditions before you go all out. Take note of any gravel, rocks, oil spots, or wet spots on the road. Get to know the turns and corner combinations. Be aware of who else is out on the road such as pedestrians, cyclists or other vehicles. This first lap will help reduce surprises on the route. Now that you’re ready to ride, let’s get into the nitty gritty of canyon carving techniques.
Body Position
I remember riding with a group of sport bikes, enjoy one of our favorite roads. It was very technical and we weren’t going very fast, maybe 45mph. The guy in front of me was sliding one cheek off the seat at every turn, sticking his knee out every time. Yet, his upper body was still straight up over the tank. I tried not to laugh at him too much, but I couldn’t help notice that I had no problem keeping up with him without a single butt cheek leaving my seat.
Basic body position through the corners should start with the head and the shoulders instead of the hips. At lower speeds, hanging off the bike is unnecessary, but as you go faster, getting your weight to the inside of the turn, will help the bike stay more upright around the corner, placing more traction on the tires.
When you approach a corner, lead with your inside shoulder and pull your upper body down and towards the turn. This will allow you to turn your head in the direction you want to go. Aim with your head and eyes towards your target and allow your upper body to follow by dipping that shoulder. Often, this is all the body adjustment you’ll need to get around a corner. But, if you’re really flying and your speed is high enough, add your hips to that equation and slide your butt slightly off the seat to add more weight off the bike around the turn. The faster you go, the more hanging off the bike will benefit you. But, it always starts with the head and shoulders.
Practice adjusting your body position smoothly but quickly to set up for consecutive turns. If you’re leaning into a left hand curve and the road transitions into right hand curve, you’ll want to change your body position without upsetting the line of the motorcycle. Avoid using your arms to push yourself into position. Instead, use your legs to lift yourself off the seat slightly and slide over to the other side of the seat. If, at the end of a ride, your thighs are sore and burning, you’re doing it right.
Other tips for body position is to keep your toes on the inside foot peg to avoid scraping them, and put more weight on the outside foot peg. Aslo, slide back in your seat a little allowing you to lay your shoulders over the bike.
Reading the Corners
Out in the road you’re going to come across different types of corners; blind corners, off camber, delayed apex, double apex, each with their own challenges. One way to read a corner is to look for its vanishing point. That’s the furthest point of the corner you can see before it disappears around the bend. If the vanishing point moves toward you as you approach it, the turn is getting tighter and may require you to slow down before entering. If it moves away from you as you approach, the turn is opening up to a straight and you may be able to take it at a higher speed. The danger of judging a corner based solely on vanishing point is that you don’t always know what’s beyond. The corner could tighten suddenly, or have a double apex. The vanishing point is only one tool you can use to read a corner, so don’t chase the vanishing point and take into account other conditions.
Camber is the the way the road tilts around a corner. Well designed roads have a positive camber which means the road is higher on the outside of the turn and lower on the inside. This improves traction as you go through the corner. Off camber, or negative camber turns tilt the opposite direction. The high side is on the inside of the turn. Tire traction will be reduced going through these turns, so you need to take them with more caution.
Selecting the Line
You probably learned to take a corner by starting from the outside of the turn moving toward the apex, then exit towards the outside of the turn again. This technique works great on the track and still holds true on public roads. However, there are some adjustments you should make since you’ll be dealing with a lot of unknowns.
The first tip is enter the turn late and as wide as you can without crossing over into the oncoming lane. Entering late gives you a wider view of the corner so you’ll be able to judge how tight the corner is. Entering late puts you in a better position to complete the curve if the curve has a surprise double apex. So, if you find yourself often drifting over the center line on a right turn, it means you’re entering the corner too soon. You apex the curve too early and the bike can’t finish the last tight cut of the curve, so it drifts into oncoming traffic.
When approaching a section with two consecutives turns, start on the outside of the first curve just as you usually would. When you hit the apex on the inside of that curve, hug the inside a little bit longer than usual. This will put you in position to approach the second turn from the outside. So, as you exit the first corner, you’ll be on the outside of the next one setting yourself up to follow a good line through the second turn.
Lastly, when choosing your line on a left hand curve, the apex of the curve will often be the center line dividing a two way road and you will likely be leaning into the opposite lane even if your tires are in your own lane. This can leave you vulnerable to oncoming traffic. So choose a line that places you a little farther away from the center line in case oncoming traffic runs a little wide.
Braking
When approaching a curve always try to get your braking and downshifting done before you enter the corner and not while you’re in it. Squeezing the front brake while leaning through a corner will upset the stability of the front tire and could cause it to wobble out from under you. Using the front brake also causes the bike to lunge forward taking traction off the rear tire, which could result in a skid. Get in the habit of using 2 fingers for braking rather than all four. This will help keep you from grabbing a handful of front brake.
Using the back brake is a little bit safer, but will still cause the rear tire to lose traction and can cause it to skid out. So, stay off the brakes as much as you can through the turn. This is one area where taking a practice lap will help you judge how much acceleration you’ll need between turns, so you can brake early enough to set up for the curve.
Throttle Control
Practice rolling on and off the throttle smoothly. Quick throttle reactions can upset the stability of the motorcycle just like braking can. Suddenly letting off the throttle in the middle of a curve can cause the front end to dip and result in a loss of traction in the rear tire.
Staying relaxed in your shoulders, arms and hands will help you have better throttle control. Keep your grip light and your shoulders down and relaxed. As soon as you start tensing up and gripping the throttle hard, your acceleration will become jerky instead of a nice smooth on and off the throttle.
Riding Uphill vs. Downhill
Twisty mountain or canyon roads are not going to be all the same level. You’ve be climbing up in some sections while descending back down in others. Riding uphill is a blast and is much easier. Not as much braking is required when approaching a turn because the uphill incline will slow you down on its own. Sometimes letting off the throttle will be all you need to do to slow down to turning speed.
Going downhill is a bit different. Gravity and momentum are pushing you to go faster and it will require more control in the brakes and throttle to maintain a safe speed. Prepare for a corner earlier and get all of your braking and downshifting done before you enter the curve.
Adjust your body position when going downhill. Sit further back in the seat and grip the tank with your knees. This will keep some of the pressure off your handlebars providing you with more control. Be careful when downshifting and keep track of what gear you’re in. There is a tendency to downshift and use engine braking a little more, but don’t over do it. Downshift while you’re braking and approaching a turn.
Road Surface
Ideally, your favorite motorcycle road is going to be a nicely paved road with sweeping turns. But, even the most pristine road surface will change day to day or with the seasons. It’s important to anticipate what kind of obstacles you might encounter based on road conditions.
Did it recently rain? If so, how much? Even a couple days after rain some portions of a canyon road can still be wet if they are in constant shade. Add to that some wet, rotting leaves and you have a nice coating of slime that your tires can easily slip on. Erosion often occurs when it rains too, spilling mud and gravel on the roadway. So, take extra caution even a few days after the rain.
Other roads will not be as well maintained and you could be dealing with a twisty road filled with uneven patchwork or potholes. I’m not sure about the rest of the country, but here in Northern California, the road condition can change drastically as soon as you hit the county line. One minute you’ll be riding on a perfectly paved dream road, then suddenly the road will narrow and be riddled with potholes. So, be aware of the road surface conditions and change your speed accordingly.
Obstacles
Out on public roads you’re going to deal with a number of different obstacles. Potholes, gravel, rocks, leaves, pine needles, wet patches, tar snakes, cows, deer, trucks, cars, people, cyclists; just to name a few. Some of these obstacles you can prepare for and expect such as gravel hiding on the inside of a curve, which is where it usually likes to hide. But other obstacles are completely out of your control. You never know when oncoming traffic, that big RV, is going to take a corner wide and end up in your lane.
Road signs as well as your surroundings can give you clues as to what kind of animals you might encounter. A deer crossing sign will tell you that deer are present and commonly cross the road. If you’re riding through pastures and you encounter cow grates, be aware that you could turn a corner and find a cow standing in your path. Staying aware of your surroundings can help you prepare for those surprise encounters.
Passing
Let’s face it. Getting stuck behind a slow car on twisty roads can be torture. All you want to do is pass them. But sometimes as riders we get a little too eager to pass and we put ourselves in unnecessary dangerous situation. Legally, you are only allowed to pass when there is a broken yellow or white line on your side of the lane. Even then, you should only pass when oncoming traffic allows you room to do so. That’s common sense.
Other roads will break out into passing lanes allowing you to fly past a line of cars and get out in front again. But often passing opportunities are few and we’re stuck behind a line of slow cars. If you do choose to pass in a non-passing zone, do so at your own risk and only pass on a straight section of the road, not on a turn. If you’re passing a line of cars sometimes you can pass one or two cars at a time until you make your way to the front. Pro tip: Don’t be a jerk. Dangerous and irresponsible passing not only endangers you, it also puts other vehicles at risk.
Commonly traveled canyon roads, especially those frequented by campers, trailers and RVs, will have pull-out sections at the side of the road. If there are more than 5 vehicles behind a slow vehicle, that driver is required to pull out and let the faster vehicles pass. Often people will recognize that a motorcycle wants to pass and they will use these pull outs. If this happens, always give the driver a thank you wave and a nod, they just did you a big favor.
Group riding on Canyon Roads
When riding with a group on wide open roads, we are taught to ride in a staggered formation. But when you enter narrow canyon roads you will need to ride single file and increase the distance between you and the rider in front of you. Often you can learn from the more advanced riders about choosing a line as well as braking.
Often in a group situation, riders of different skills will naturally break into their own groups. More advanced riders will take off up front, intermediate riders will form a small group and ride together, while slower riders will take up the rear. Every group ride should have a designated sweeper to make sure slower, novice riders aren’t left behind.
Traffic
As mentioned in the section on passing, you will encounter different types of traffic depending on what road you’re riding. You can get an idea of how heavy the traffic will be based on several factors. Summertime weekend traffic will be heavier than during the week. Popular scenic roads will have more car traffic and you’re more likely to run into the typical Sunday driver. Roads that lead to lakes will often have boats on trailers. Keep in mind that at the end of the day, when these boaters drive home, they are often tired, had too much sun, and could possibly have been drinking, which creates an even more dangerous situation.
If you’re riding in farm country, don’t be surprised to see some farm equipment slowly driving down the road at a snail’s pace. Slow down and pass them when it’s safe. So, to avoid annoying traffic situations, consider these things before you choose where to ride. Try to choose routes that will take you away from the tourists. Start your ride early to beat the crowds.
Ride Your Own Pace
The most important thing you should remember when riding canyon road, especially if you are riding with a group, is to ride at your own pace. It can be tempting to keep up with the faster riders but this is where riders get themselves into trouble and they don’t have the skills needed to handle the turns at higher speeds. Too often I’ve heard stories of serious or fatal crashes because riders are trying to keep up with the big boys.
When you’re on your own, take it easy at the beginning of your ride. It takes time to warm up, get the feel for the road, and get yourself in the right frame of mind. Don’t push your limits while on a canyon road. There are too many risks. You should start out riding at about 50% of your ability at first, then gradually push yourself until you’re riding at about 70% of your ability. If you want to ride at 100% or push yourself further, don’t do it on public roads. Instead take it to the track. For now, ride at a safer pace.
Build Your Confidence
The more you ride twisty roads, the more your confidence will build. As you ride, try to become more comfortable with leaning your bike at a more aggressive angle. Gradually you will become more comfortable with the sensation you get when you lean. Trust in the bike and trust your tires. If the road is clear and if you’ve entered the turn properly, your tires will grip and support you around the turn.
Lastly, commit to the corner when you’re in it. This goes along with trusting your tires and the lean. Once you’re in the curve, stay there, roll on the throttle as you exit. The last thing you want to do is have a mental hick-up in the middle of taking a corner and change your mind. This would cause you to panic, let go of the throttle, resist the lean and that will cause your motorcycle to do all sorts of bad. Commit to the corner all the way through it.
Wrap Up
Riding twisty canyon roads is one of the great pleasures of motorcycle riding. So, when you’re out there remember these tips. Wear all your gear. Ride at your own pace. Start slow and work your way to a faster pace. Watch for obstacles, traffic and animals. And above all else, ride safe.
Riding your motorcycle across the country is going to include a lot of nights away from your own, comfortable bed. So, how do you decide where to sleep on a motorcycle trip? There is a wide variety of choices with varying levels of comfort and cost. Cross country motorcycle trip offers choices like camping, boondocking, fancy hotels, cheap motels, couch surfing, hostels, and a lot more.
A cross country trip on a touring bike is a great deal for riders. Aid kit, rain gear, tire repair kit and other essentials are necessary for traveling cross country on touring bikes. Save money on a road trip to the grand canyon or a glacier national park. Drive away from rush hour traffic into unlimited options for cruise control on two wheels. There are appropriate tools to guide riders to new places of camping across the countryside. Riders need to wear protective gear at all times during riding. Popular destinations include Southern California, Las Vegas, Washington State Park, Canadian provinces, New Jersey and more. Always carry granola bars in case of emergency and hunger. Bad weather can create a dangerous situation for a cross country motorcycle ride. Extra gear should always be packed for long stretches. There are many hotels throughout small towns. A cross country motorcycle ride or a motorcycle road trip is incomplete without a local gas station. There are fun roads in Salt Lake City and incredible locations for skyline drive in New Mexico, New Orleans and other places. Always carry bottled water, extra t shirt and remember to stay hydrated.
A cross country motorcycle trip or a motorcycle road trip is highly economical. It is important to keep a check for gas stations at all possible junctions to refill in case of emergency.
Where to sleep When Riding Motorcycle Cross Country Trip
1. Camping in National Parks
A national park is a land set aside and protected by the federal government so that we all can enjoy them for generations. The US has some incredibly beautiful landscapes in the world and most are in a national or state park. These are places where you can enjoy mountains, deserts, towering forests, and grasslands. Entering national forests requires payment of an entrance fee and in some, more popular parks such as The Grand Canyon, the entrance fees can be up to $30 per vehicle. Luckily, fees for motorcycles are usually discounted and a pass is good for up to 7 days. If you plan to visit a lot of parks, consider purchasing an annual pass. Riding cross country is a thrilling experience.
National parks are more protected than other places and the rules for camping are a little more strict. You will be staying in an assigned, designated campsite with a picnic table, food storage locker, fire ring, and often a platform for a tent. You’ll find a designated area next to your campsite to part your motorcycle and it’s probably against park rules to park your motorcycle inside your campsite.
Campgrounds are patrolled by park rangers who are there to make sure your stay is safe and enjoyable but also to make sure the rules are being followed. They are authorized to give citations, so, make sure you know and follow the rules of the park. Most campgrounds require reservations well in advance, especially in peak seasons, and some may be closed for winter. So, if you want to camp, be sure to plan ahead. However, parks often have first-come-first-serve campsites as well. They are easily found on any map, digital or printed.
2. State Parks
Campgrounds within state parks are similar to a national park but on a smaller scale and they are funded and maintained by the state government. Each state will have its own regulations for its campgrounds as well their own process for making reservations. Again, depending on the popularity of the location, reservations may have to be made well in advance.
State parks also have first-come-first-serve campgrounds. Often these campgrounds can be a good bet if you didn’t plan ahead with reservations. On weekdays you will have much better luck finding a spot when you ride up. Check with the state’s park website to find all the information you need, where to go, entrance fees, and vehicle fees. Sometimes you can actually find these on google maps.
3. Privately Owned Campgrounds
Privately owned campgrounds can be found all over the country and can greatly range in size as well as in amenities offered. Some of these campgrounds can be found tucked away in a grove of trees close to a small town, while others can be found smack dab in the middle of a large suburban area. Many of them cater to the RV crowd but they often have sections set aside for tent only camping with no hookups and at a lower price.
You will often find a camp host that is either the owner of the campground or is employed by the owner. The camp host lives on-site and can help you if you have any issues or questions about camping there. They are often the ones you will go to for firewood. Because private campgrounds can be so different, you’ll find a wide variety of services for each one. Some will have flush toilets and free showers. Many have coin-operated showers.
You might find a small camp store which is great when you’re camping. There you can pick up snacks and often a cold beer. Most private campsites will be motorcycle friendly, but, if you don’t enjoy being surrounded by families in big RV’s, try for a tent site instead. The price for these campgrounds will depend on what kind of services they offer. The more services, generally the higher the price. But, most seem to range between $20 to $35 per night.
4. Dispersed Camping
Also known as boondocking, dry camping, or wilderness camping, dispersed camping is when you find a spot on public land such as a national forest, park your motorcycle, and camp. Keep in mind that you can’t just park anywhere and there are common rules that must be followed when camping. Check the local national forest information center to find out the rules and regulations regarding taking motorcycles off the main road in order to camp.
In some states, like California, you will need a permit to have a campfire and will be required to pass a short fire safety test to obtain that permit. This is common in dry states where the threat of forest fire is imminent, and I can’t stress enough how important it is to follow fire safety rules in drought-ridden areas. But, permits are free, easy to get, and can be found online.
There will be no services when wilderness camping. You will have to bring in your own food and water, you’ll have to dig a cat hole for your waste, and you will be expected to pack everything out, including all your trash. As a motorcycle camping enthusiast myself, this is the type of camping I love. Away from the crowds and noise, out in nature, and disconnected from the daily grind.
5. Roadside Camping
Camping by the roadside is similar to dispersed camping. You won’t find any services, picnic tables, bathrooms or camp host, and, like dispersed camping, it’s free. But, be aware that roadside camping doesn’t mean you can pull over at any point and set up your tent. That would be illegal as most roadsides are private property or owned by the city or county. Even in designated rest stops, you will find signs that specifically say “No camping”. And if you ever see a No Trespassing sign, don’t camp there unless you want a rude awakening and possibly dangerous situation.
If you are on public land, however, you can camp just about anywhere you like. Land that is managed by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) or a national forest, or any federally owned land, is fair game for camping up to 14 days at a time. A good example of this is a section of BLM land off highway 10 just outside Joshua Tree National park. There’s literally nothing there, but you are allowed to camp there.
Follow the same rules as you would for dispersed camping. Bury your waste, pack out your trash, control your fires and put them out completely. Try to look for an area that has been used before and avoid trampling on nearby vegetation. Keep your campsite clean and store your food and toiletries away from your tent in a place where critters can’t get them. Also, practice common sense personal safety. These areas won’t be patrolled by park rangers.
6. Beach Camping
Beach camping can fit into all other categories like national and state parks, or private campgrounds. But camping on the beach is a whole different experience and everyone should try it at least once. There’s nothing better than watching the sun rise or set, depending on what coast you’re on, over the ocean and listening to the sound of the waves while you sleep.
Beach camping comes with its own set of problems, the main one being sand. You will get sand pretty much everywhere, in your tent, your shoes, your boots, your sleeping bag. Sand seems to show up in the oddest places. So, be prepared to shake everything out when you leave. Even if you don’t take your motorcycle on the sand, you might consider cleaning and lubing your chain after your beach stay.
Beaches can also be very windy especially in the late afternoon and you can expect fog or a lot of moisture in the morning. Make sure you use a rain fly and that your gear is covered and protected and that your tent is secured to the ground. Check with the local authorities to see if fires are allowed on the beach. A beach bonfire is an incredible way to enjoy the evening.
Beach weather can vary greatly depending on where you are and what season it is. All of my experience with beach camping is on the northern coast of California. It’s usually pretty chilly at night and summer brings morning fog. But, southern beaches are warm and sunny for most of the year. And it’s so nice to have a coast trip or if you’re in a group of touring bikes riding up the east coast.
7. Resort Camping
Resort camping could be considered the same as a private campground, but on a more upscale level, we’re talking luxury campsites at their best. I suppose KOA could be considered a resort-style campground, but there are others that are more luxurious. Resorts have extra goodies like swimming pools, spas, upscale cabins, often a restaurant on-site, private showers, and concierge services to take care of your needs. For long trips, resort camping is a cruisy way to spend the night after being on two wheels all day.
Keep in mind that resorts are more popular with RVers and some require a membership. This is where rich old people go with their million-dollar motor homes. Some can be expensive and not all of them will be motorcycle friendly. So, if you want to be pampered for a night or two, do some research for resort camping in the area you want to stay. Check all the fine print to make sure they allow motorcycles.
8. Glamping
Glamping has become a buzzword in the travel world over the last few years. Glamping is glamorous camping or luxury camping. You will find them on privately owned properties and some of them will be tucked away in a beautiful forest, on the coast looking over the ocean, or in a desert valley. Glamping is for people who love the outdoors and would like to camp but don’t want the hassle of setting up, sleeping on the ground, and roughing it.
These campsites can come it a variety of themes and levels, of luxury. You could be sleeping in a large canvas tent, a yurt, a teepee, or a treehouse. In any case, you will be sure to have a comfortable bed and nice linens, sitting areas, maybe a deck, along with other perks such as continental breakfast, or even room service (or yurt service). Most glamping campsites will be motorcycle friendly, but always double-check when you make a reservation.
Like resort camping, this luxury comes at a price. The simplest glamping experience will probably cost around $150 per night and can go as high as $1500 a night and anywhere in between. But, hey, if you have the money and you want the experience, go for it.
9. Urban Camping
It’s possible that while on a long trip cross country, you find yourself in a town with absolutely no place to stay. Hotels are full, there’s no camping available, no rentals available, etc. This is a time when you could consider urban camping, also known as squatting. Whilst it might not be the most glorious cross country ride experience you’ll have, it’ll give you a memory for sure!
Keep in mind that it is illegal to camp in a non-designated camping area without a permit. But, a lot of people do it, and homeless people are forced into this lifestyle of squatting due to their situation. You could probably get away with one night of urban camping on private property as long as you are respectful of the area, quiet, and have no fire.
Some of the more acceptable places to camp in an urban area would be on the property of a church, or on the property of a business that allows boondocking, like Walmart. Often you can tuck yourself into a hidden area alongside a park, creek, a greenbelt, or by a river. Once you find a spot, be aware that you could, at any time, be asked to leave by local authorities. Even at 3:00 in the morning. If this happens, be respectful and comply with their requests, pack up and move on.
Urban camping can also be more dangerous since you are in an area that has more night time activity. You are more susceptible to criminal activity. As a woman on a solo trip (just you), I would only urban camp if there were absolutely no other option and I probably wouldn’t sleep very well.
10. Vacation Rentals
A vacation rental is a privately owned home, managed by a rental company, and offered to anyone who would like to stay there. They can be houses, cottages, cabins, condos, large or small and come equipped with dishes, cook wear and linens so you can make yourself at home. Owners of vacation rentals rely on the property management company to take care of the logistics of renting, maintenance, cleaning, etc. When staying at one, you deal with the management company and not the property owner.
If you’re interested in staying at one of these homes, your best bet is to turn to a website that manages reservations. Vacationrentals.com is a great start. The rental prices will vary widely depending on location and size. for instance, a studio apartment in downtown Chicago will cost more than a 4 bedroom house in the Sierra mountains. But, if you want a few days off while on your cross country motorcycle trip, you can feel like you’re at home again at least for a while.
11. Air BnB
Air BnB has become a very popular way for people to find a place to stay. They are similar to vacation rentals because they are privately owned homes, condos or apartments that are offered for short-term rental. There is no property management company and you will deal directly with the owner of the property for pricing, keys, maintenance requests, etc. The Air BnB website is simply a way to connect you with the owner and find a great place to stay.
It’s a good idea to read the reviews carefully. One important thing to know about these rentals is that the owner of the property or house is often present and living there. Some deals are for a single room in an occupied house. Some are for small cottages or pool houses in the backyard of an occupied home. Owners have the right to enter at any time and check up on the rental whenever they like. This is the number one downside I’ve heard from people I know who’ve used Air BnB. So, if you’re ok with that, you could have a great experience. Make sure you ask about the parking situation and if there is a safe place to park your motorcycle.
12. Motorcycle Festivals
Babes Ride Out Women‘s motorcycle festival – Joshua Tree, CA
Wouldn’t it be great to coordinate your trip around the country to include Stergis, or Daytona bike week? Or how about women’s only festivals like Babes Ride out or The Dream Roll. There are small motorcycle festivals happening all over the country. Find one to join and camp with 1,000 motorcycles nearby. It’s a great way to make friends, share stories, party and listen to music and each festival brings its own special flair.
13. Home Sharing
Motostays.com is a home-sharing service that is designed strictly for motorcyclists. This membership website allows motorcyclists to offer up their home and their hospitality to other motorcyclists who are looking for a place to stay. The website is a vehicle to connect the homeowner with the rider who needs a place to stay.
Membership to Motostays is free and, get this, there is no charge for staying with a host. It’s based on sharing and hospitality and a common love of motorcycle travel. The website allows the guests to leave reviews about the experience and hosts can earn badges and a reputation for being great hosts. Also, staying with a local host give you the chance to meet other motorcycle enthusiasts and learn about some of the great roads in the area.
14. Couch Surfing
Couch surfing is another way to stay with a local host. You’ll share their home and it’s a great way to get to know the area in which you’re staying. Often people who are hosts really enjoy having out-of-town guests and are often open to showing their guests the sights and local attractions.
If you want to meet some great people and are willing to stay in a shared home, couch surfing might be for you. The couch surfing website provides a platform for hosts and guests to connect. It allows the guest an opportunity to leave reviews and report negative experiences, so, as a guest, you can feel more confident that you’ll have a safe experience and it’ll be more fun.
15. Upscale Hotel
Another option when you’re on a cross country motorcycle trip is to stay in a nice, upscale hotel. After a long stretch of camping and roughing it each night, it might be nice to spoil yourself and have a good night’s sleep. One of the perks of staying in an upscale hotel is the services you’ll receive. Nicer hotels have laundry services, not just washers and dryers. Stuff your dirty clothes in a bag and have them returned to you washed and folded.
Pools, jacuzzis, and spas are commonplace in nice hotels as well as fully equipped gyms so you can get a good workout in or a massage during your stay. They also have perks like room service and complimentary snacks. Depending on your travel budget, consider a night or two in a really nice hotel.
16. Budget Hotel
An inexpensive budget hotel will give you a decent place to stay on the cheap. These are places such as Motel 6, Econo Lodge, or Holiday Inn. Often these rooms go for less than $100 per night, often as little a $50. Stay at a budget hotel when you just want a place to sleep and don’t expect too many perks, although you might get a free continental breakfast out of the deal.
Accommodations can be hit and miss and towels and linens are generally lower quality, aka, scratchy. That’s why I usually pack my own, don’t get me wrong I pack light but my luggage rack always has a few things like a first aid kit, towel, rain gear, and a motorcycle maintenance kit. Because it’s zero fun getting stuck out without these things of a road trip.
When looking for a budget hotel for your road trip it’s recommended that you look at reviews on websites like Yelp to get a good idea of what you’ll get for your money. It’s often easier to find a room in a budget hotel without a reservation so it is an option when you roll into town that’s not on your itinerary.
17. Motorcycle friendly hotels
Some hotels, motels, and travel lodges recognize the potential for catering to the motorcycle community. These will be places where you won’t get dirty looks when you roll in loud, tired, and grimy from a long day of riding. Many mainstream hotels have adopted a new attitude towards motorcycle guests and now offer designated motorcycle parking and other perks like, wipe down towels or a space to do maintenance or clean your bike during your stay after your road trip.
Often motorcycle friendly hotels will allow you to park your motorcycle under the carport directly at the main entrance give you peace of mind that your bike will be safe at night. So, at any hotel, be sure to ask if you can do that.
18. Youth Hostels
Youth Hostels are a unique and cheap way to find a place to sleep while you travel. Hostels can be found all over the world and they are most popular in big cities like Manhattan, Chico, or San Francisco. Hostels offer dormitory style shared rooms with bunk beds and shared bathrooms. These are usually used by younger tourists when on a road trip around the USA.
Or they offer private rooms at higher prices. Depending on the location, you can get a bed in a shared room starting at around $30 a night. In a shared room, if you’re traveling solo, you will most likely be sharing your room with strangers. You’ll claim a bunk and a locker, and ALWAYS lock up your belongings, and call the place home for a night.
A good hostel will offer gender specific dorm rooms or co-ed rooms so you have a choice. While accommodations are minimal, they offer other perks such as a communal kitchen, shared refrigerator, coffee bars, live bands, movies, and game rooms. And, you’re always bound to meet someone interesting from another country.
Because hostels are usually found in major cities, they may or may not have on-site parking. That may be a concern for some riders and can be a little expensive. I know for a fact that parking a motorcycle overnight in a San Francisco garage costs around $45 per night. So, keep that in mind if you choose a place to stay. Hostelling International is a great place to start.
19. Stay on a Farm
Consider staying a day or two on a working farm, ranch, or vineyard. Farmstayus.com is a website that connects guests with farm and ranch owners for a unique experience. You could relax and enjoy the sights, sounds and probably smells of a farm too. Do some fishing or horseback riding and if you want to really get involved, you can participate in the daily chores like, feeding the animals or milking the cows, or how about harvesting grapes on a vineyard.
Prices will range quite a bit depending on where you stay, but the experience might be worth it to work into your budget. Seems like it would be a great way to experience country life while on a tour of the USA.
20. Motorcycle Trailer
If you’ve got the right kind of motorcycle, you could consider hitching up a pull-behind trailer so you always have a place to sleep wherever you go. These things come in plenty of different sizes and layouts and some with tents that give you a surprising amount of sleeping and living space. It’s also a great way to pack your gear and belongings while you travel.
You will need to have a bigger motorcycle like a Harley Davidson Road King or Honda Goldwing or a larger touring bike to pull a trailer big enough to sleep in or convert to a tent camper. This takes motorbike camping after a long ride to another level.
21. Family and distant relatives
Do you have family scattered across the country? Personally, I have cousins and second cousins all over the place that I’ve never met. But, knowing my family, all I’d have to do is put the word out that I’ll be in town, tell them I’m so-and-so’s grandkid, and I know I’ll have a place to sleep, a home-cooked meal, and a chance to learn a little bit about my ancestry. Most riders I know going on a long ride at least two weeks will stay with some family along the way. But be careful, chances are you won’t be going to bed early!
And this works for more than just distant relatives. Maybe you’ve got an old college friend or military buddy that you haven’t seen in a long time. Get in touch and let them know you’ll be in town. Try not to impose too much and let them invite you to stay rather than you ask. Some will just want to have a visit, while others will open up their home. Don’t be insulted either way.
22. Stay with Church Family
Do you belong to a church community? My grandfather and uncle were both ministers in the Nazarene church and they knew a lot of other preachers around the country. I always felt that if I stepped into any Nazarene church around the country and dropped Grandpa’s name, I would have an instant family. So, consider contacting a local church in a town you’ll be visiting to see if someone would like to be a host family for a fellow church member.
23. Stay with internet friends met on forums
Motorcycle forums are very popular and a great way to make internet friends with a common interest; riding. Post up on a forum that you’ll be taking a long, cross country motorcycle trip. You’ll probably be surprised with the number of offers you get from your forum friend to stay at their place, or at least meet up while you’re in their town. They might even join you for a leg of the cross country trip. Make sure they have their own bike though, I would never pillion a cross country trip.
24. Apartment Hotels – Extended Stay
There are other types of hotels that accommodate people who will be staying for longer periods of time. If you plan on taking a week-long break in one place, consider looking into an apartment hotel. It’s similar to renting a condo, but you will have hotel services like housekeeping, on a daily basis just as if you were in a hotel.
Some hotel chains are designed for this type of travel. They’ll include kitchenettes so you can prepare meals and are often set up more like an apartment with a separate living area. These types of hotels may offer weekly rates that might be less expensive than a daily rate. Perfect for your next cross country motorcycle trip.
25. University Dormitory
This last suggestion is limited to the summer months. Some colleges and universities will allow the general public to rent a dorm room while the students are away on summer break. You can often get a room for as little as $25 per night. You’ll most likely have a room with a shared bathroom, but some of the newer dormitories have really nice accommodations. So, it’s certainly something to look into.
So, there you have it. 25 different places to sleep while on a cross country, or around the USA, motorcycle tour. Mix them up to fit them into your budget and get the best experiences during your journey. If you need help prepping for a camping trip on a motorcycle, be sure to check out our article by clicking here!
Solo Motorcycle touring can be a life changing and rewarding experience, but, even if you take all possible safety precautions, you’re still at risk of emergency situations. To deal with emergencies while on a solo motorcycle trip, carry a good first aid kit and have the knowledge to use it, carry a personal locator beacon, carry good travel insurance and roadside assistance.
Avoiding a crash doesn’t guarantee that you won’t be injured while on a solo motorcycle trip. If you plan to camp in the backcountry, an injury can happen in any number of ways; snake bite or spider bite, a sprained ankle while hiking, or a serious cut from the slip of your axe or knife. Hopefully nothing like this will happen, but it’s best to be prepared so you can deal with an emergency and get the help you need.
Help Yourself First
If you’re traveling solo in a populated area and find yourself in an accident, chances are extremely high that someone will help you and call for an ambulance or paramedic. However, if your adventure takes you away from populated areas and into the back country, the odds of someone helping you and calling for assistance in much less likely, or it will take too much time. That’s why your first step in dealing with an emergency or injury is to help yourself.
Part of your luggage should include a basic first aid kit along with some additional items for more serious injuries. In addition to a good standard first aid kit, such as this one on amazon, include additional survival items such as a bright orange fire retardant blanket. This can be used for warmth but also as a signal when stretched out in an open area. Include a 36″ SAM Splint, which can be used to splint a number of sprains or breaks. Keeping a broken ankle or wrist protected by a splint until help arrives will be a great advantage. In the case of a laceration what bleeding, you can include an Israeli compression bandage. (also known as Izzy Bandages) These are designed to be used on yourself, or others, to stop serious bleeding. A clotting sponge is also a good way to stop bleeding. Another smart addition to your first aid kit is an epipen if you have serious allergies.
Once you have a good medical kit put together, make sure it is stored in a bright orange or red bag so it is easily recognizable. Store it in a location that’s easy to get to. Don’t put it at the bottom of your saddle bags or inside your duffel bag forcing you to dig for it when you need it.
Learn Basic First Aid
There’s little reason to carry advance first aid items if you don’t know how to use them. Consider taking a first aid course through the American Red Cross, or a similar organization if you live outside the US. Knowing what to do if you are injured will help you take steps quickly. Make sure you know how to use a SAM splint, Izzy bandage, or clotting sponge and practice using them before hand.
When learning first aid, make sure you learn how to do self-help first aid. The techniques for helping yourself are going to be different from helping another person. Part of self-help first aid is to be familiar with your body and how it functions. Know how to recognize when you are dehydrated, over heated, experiencing the onset of hypothermia, or have an allergic reaction to plants or insects. Recognizing when something is wrong will help you decide what action to take.
Stay Calm
Have you ever wondered how you would react if you were seriously injured and alone? In any case, the most important thing to do is to stay calm. Easier said than done, I’m sure. But staying calm will allow you to make better decisions, and quickly. But, how do you stay calm if you’re bleeding or in pain?
Being prepared can help. Having your first aid kit and first aid knowledge can help you take action. Take advantage of the adrenaline that kicks in when an injury occurs. This natural pain killer can last anywhere from 20 minutes to an hour, and although it causes your heart rate and breathing to increase, it will reduce your pain so you’ll be able to take action to help yourself.
Once the initial injury has been treated as best as you can, it’s important to continue to stay calm so you can take the actions necessary to get yourself some help. Be sure to take long cleansing breaths to keep your mind clear. At this point, decide what you need to do next. Can you get on your motorcycle and ride for help? Do you need to send out a signal to be rescued? Make the decision and act.
Make Sure You Can be Found
One of the smartest things you can do when you’re on a lengthy motorcycle tour is to let people know where you are. You may have a set plan, but, our plans can change unexpectedly. So, before you take off into remote areas, communicate your plans to a contact person (friend or family member). Let them know where you will be and when they can expect to hear from you again. Also, give them a plan in case they don’t hear from you. A friend of mine has a common rule with his wife where he tells her that he will call at 3:00, and if she doesn’t hear from him by 6:00, she should start taking action. You can also check in with park rangers and file an itinerary. This will help narrow down the search and rescue area if you go missing.
Carry a Personal Locator Beacon
Technology makes it easier for us with the use of a GPS Personal Locator Beacon or PLB. These simple devices are designed to send out a distress signal via satellite and they do not require a subscription to any services to operate. When you purchase one, your device will be assigned a unique ID number. When activated, the beacon will transmit on 2 different emergency frequencies and will last for at least 24 hours. Emergency services will be dispatched and will make their way to your beacon to offer assistance. There is no way to communicate with this type of beacon. It is simply a locator, so, it’s important to remain with the locator beacon at all times if you want a rescue team to find you. Keep in mind that any satellite communication device requires a clear view of the sky to operate, so if you’re in heavy trees, you may need to move to a clear location.
Other PLB’s offer more interactive services and include the ability to communicate via satellite, such as the inReach by Garmin or the Spot(check out the prices on Amazon). These include features in which you can communicate with friends and family via satellite text, sending them a message so you can check in from time to time. These personal communications do not go out to emergency services and require a subscription service to function. Depending on your subscription, these devices will record your location each time you check in allowing friends and family to follow you as you travel. It’s a great way to bring peace of mind to your family and a fun way to record your trip.
But, how does it get help to you when you’re injured? All PLB’s, including the more advanced communication devices, have an SOS feature. When this button is pressed, it activates the locator beacon and sends the signal to local emergency services. They are given your gps coordinates and are required to send out a rescue team.
A word of caution about PLB’s. Because they have become so popular in recent years, their services have been abused by, how shall I word this, stupid people. Hikers and backpackers have used the signals for non-emergency situations such as, seeing a cougar, running out of water, a bee sting, or other situations that can simply be attributed to being out in nature. “Help! Help! I forgot to pack a clean pair of underwear!” is not an emergency. So, if you carry a PLB, only use the SOS beacon for true life threatening emergencies and only if you can’t rescue yourself.
A PLB should only be used in situations of grave and imminent danger to life. False alerts endanger lives and cause expensive disruption to Search & Rescue services. Deliberate misuse of the device could result in a penalty.
McMurdo Fast Find 220PLB
If you don’t carry a PLB there are some other things you can do to get help. Try dialing 911 on your cell phone even if you don’t think you have service in your location, you still might be able to connect. Carry an emergency survival whistle. The international distress signal for a whistle is 3 consecutive blows at 2 to 3 second bursts.
Roadside Services
Mechanical breakdowns happen no matter how prepared you think you are. Having roadside services can be the difference between being stuck and getting your bike to the nearest repair shop. Most roadside services will take care of minor problems such as a dead battery, flat tire, no gas, or towing up to 100 miles. Check with your insurance company to see if they have additional coverage that will include these convenient services. Consider becoming a member of the American Motorcycle Association. They offer plans for roadside assistance and membership gets you a lot of other perks such as discounts on gear and events.
Trip Interruption Insurance
In addition to your normal motorcycle insurance and roadside assistance, consider purchasing additional insurance that covers the hassles of an interruption to your trip. A trip interruption can include things like repairs that will take several days, illnesses or injuries that prevent you from continuing, or something that cancels your trip all together.
Trip interruption insurance, depending on the package you purchase, will cover things like food and a motel stay for a limited amount of time while you wait for your motorcycle repair, etc. It’s designed to deal with the unplanned expenses of lodging when dealing the unexpected interruption. It is recommended that this insurance also cover the cost of shipping your motorcycle home if you need to cancel your trip and you’re unable to ride it for whatever reason; motorcycle damage or rider injury.
When traveling abroad with your own motorcycle be sure to get international motorcycle insurance coverage from your insurance company. Most motorcycle insurance will provide temporary international insurance coverage to protect you while you are on your trip. This is great if you live in the US and your trip takes you into Canada or Mexico for a portion of the trip. If you travel abroad and rent a motorcycle, the rental company will provide you with a number of insurance options to protect you while you are using their motorcycle.
Medical and Rescue Insurance
Medical insurance is imperative when you’re traveling especially in the United State where health insurance can be confusing. If you are not covered through your employer, make sure you take the steps to get proper medical insurance through the ACA or through a personal insurance company. This will not only cover you if you are injured, but you will be able to get medical attention for common illnesses or small injuries such as the flu or an infection.
Another piece of insurance that you might consider is getting an Air Rescue Card. TheAirRescueCard.com is a company that provides air ambulance services designed to get you home in the event of an accident or medical emergency. Basically covering a serious injury that would cancel your trip and make public air travel impossible. They provide bedside to bedside ambulatory services from anywhere in the world. They can get you home. They offer short term memberships for coverage as short as $14 days, annual memberships or long term memberships. So, if you’re traveling internationally, this is an affordable extra level of coverage.
Another type of insurance or membership to consider is Air Medical Rescue membership. Helicopter ambulance services can proved fast response to remote places where it would be difficult for a ground ambulance to reach. In the US there is a network called AirMedCare. Membership with this network has you covered in more than 320 locations around the states.
A lot of motorcycle riders debate whether or not they need this kind of medi-vac insurance. The argument is that most state, county and city emergency services are paid for by taxes and won’t cost you, the patient, anything. Also, not all medi-vac helicopters are equipped for rescue, such as lifting a stranded hiker from a cliffside, and they will require enough clearance to be able to land. On the flip side, local search and rescue services may not have the advance medical equipment and personnel needed to deal with a life threatening injury. So, as you can see, there are pros and cons to adding this coverage.
Notifying Family and Friends
If you’re seriously injured and transported to a hospital, you will need the ability to notify friends and family. But what if you’re unable to communicate this information due to your injuries? You could be unconscious from an accident. This is where an emergency contact list comes in handy. There are a couple of ways to approach this. Whenever I ride, I always wear my Road ID bracelet. Engraved on it are the phone numbers of several family members and it includes my blood type and the name of the medication I am taking.
If you don’t want to wear a Road ID bracelet, you can type out all your emergency contact information, blood type, names of medications and allergies onto a card and get it laminated. Keep that card on your person at all times when you ride. Don’t put it in your luggage or pannier bags. Keep it in your pocket or in your wallet, which is in your pocket so, if you are separated from your motorcycle, emergency staff will still be able to find the information. It’s a good idea to put all of your insurance cards along with the emergency info card in one location so emergency personnel can find it all quickly and easily.
Stay Safe Ride Smart
One of the most effective ways to deal with an emergency is to avoid the emergency all together. This seems obvious and in some cases it is out of our control. People driving cars don’t always see us on our motorcycles. Surprise mechanical problems happen, and no matter how skilled a rider you are, the risk of making a mistake and going down is a real one.
Do whatever you can to avoid injury. Ride smart and always wear your protective gear. So, if you do go down on your motorcycle, your risk of injury is reduced. Ride smart while you’re in the city too. Try to time your arrival and departure so that you are not caught up in rush hour traffic to reduce the risk of an accident with a car.
Lastly, always be safe when you’re off your motorcycle and camping in the wilderness. Use common sense fire safety and store your food properly to avoid encounters with wild animals. If you spend a day hiking, make sure you know your way back to camp, take precautions to avoid injuries while on the trail, and bring water and snacks with you.
While we can never be fully prepared for the unexpected emergency, we can do what we can to be safe and to get the help we need when we need it. I hope you’ve found valuable information in this article that will help you have a safe motorcycle journey no matter where you ride.
