Author: Joel Hathaway

Reading Time: 17 minutes

The sun is out, the weather is warm, and you’re ready to ride. But, is your motorcycle ready for riding season? This guide will help you get your bike ready to be safe on the road whether it’s been sitting for a couple of months, or for a couple of years.

There are some basic checks that you should do every time you ride, and those are listed first in this article. Then, we will go into a more thorough inspection list for motorcycles that have been sitting unused for a few months, and, an even more thorough check list for bikes that have been in storage for a year or more.

Pre-Ride Checklist

Let’s start with a pre-ride checklist. This is a quick inspection that you should do often during riding season. A pre-ride check only takes a few minutes and can save you a lot of hassles on the road. It’s best to do this inspection a day or two prior to a planned ride so, if anything needs maintenance or repairs, you have time to do so.

Pro Tip: Pre-Ride check may be all you need to do if you have a new motorcycle, or if it’s only been a few months since your last ride.

• Tire pressure: Adjust the PSI to match the type of riding you do. Lower PSI for dirt riding, higher if you’re riding fully loaded with gear.
• Tire Condition – check the tread wear, look for cracks in sidewalls.
• Chain tension – there should be about 1.2 to 1.6 inches in slack.
• Chain condition – inspect the chain for excessive wear, kinks, rust, dirt and grit. The chain should be lubricated every 300 to 500 miles.
• Oil level – hold the motorcycle level, off the kickstand, and check the oil through the sight window. Make sure it is between the full and low lines. Top off if necessary.
• Turn signals – test front and rear sets of turn signals to make sure they all come on.
• Brake light – Apply the front brake and the back brake individually to make sure the brake light comes on for both.
• Headlight, low and high beam – Make sure both beams are working
• Give the horn a quick blast. You never know when it will come in handy.

Post Winter Storage Checklist

If you live in a part of the world where riding becomes close to impossible during the winter months, you’re likely to let your motorcycle sit in the garage waiting for spring.

Or, if you’ve had your motorcycle sitting in the barn, left alone and forgotten, maybe it’s time to get it up and running again. This thorough checklist will help you keep track of everything that you should inspect, repair and/or replace.

1. Inspect and Inflate Tires

Check the tire’s age. Check the four digit date code on the sidewall. The first number is the week, the second number is the year. For example, if you see the number 1419, the tire was made in the 14th week of 2019. Tires are generally rated to last 5 years.

Check the tread wear. You can do this two ways.

1. Stick a penny with Lincoln’s head inside the tread. If you can see the top of Lincoln’s head, your tires are worn and should be replaced.
2. Within the grooves of your tires you will find tread wear indicators, or tiny bars. If they are flush with the surface or your tire, your tires need replacing.

Tire pressure. Check the owner’s manual for the recommended pressure. Take into consideration what type of riding you do. If you do basic street riding, the recommended PSI should be sufficient. However, if your motorcycle will be loaded with luggage, you should increase the pressure by 1 or 2 PSI.

Pro Tip: The PSI printed on the sidewall is actually the maximum the tire will hold, but it is not the correct PSI for riding.

If you have tires with tubes, be sure to replace the tubes at the same time you replace the tires.

2. Inspect the Wheels

If you have alloy wheels, inspect them for cracks. Especially if you just acquired a previously owned motorcycle. A cracked wheel may also mean the wheel is bent. You can get a cracked or bent wheel welded and repaired by a specialty shop in lieu of buying a new wheel.

Also check the bead of the rim for dents. Hitting a pothole while riding can often bend the rim and we don’t always realize it. A minor dent is usually not a problem, but, a larger dent could cause a surprise blowout. It’s best to have dents inspected and repaired by a professional.

If you have spoked wheels, inspect the wheel for broken spokes. Then, using a spoke torque wrench (found here on Amazon), tighten each spoke to the recommended amount of torque. A tip to keeping your wheel true and prevent wobble, is to tighten every 4th spoked as you go around the wheel.

3. Check for Wear in Brake Pads

Visually inspect the brake pads on both front and rear brakes. If there is less than 3mm thickness, replace them. Sometimes this is difficult to see when the brakes are still on the bike, even with a flashlight. If you suspect that they are close to worn, it would be a good idea to quickly remove the brake caliper from the wheel and measure the brake pad to be sure.

If you ride your motorcycle with worn brake pads, there is a chance of metal grinding against metal, causing damage to the rotors. Unlike a car’s brake rotors, motorcycle rotors can’t be turned and trued, and will have to be replaced if damaged.

4. Check Brake Fluid Level and Clarity

Check the level of brake fluid in the reservoir located on the handlebars, usually near the front brake lever. Most of them have a sight window. Make sure the motorcycle is level and cold. The fluid line should be between the full and low indicators.

If it is low, you can carefully add a minimal amount of brake fluid to top it off. It usually only takes a couple of tablespoons. Do not overfill. Also, use only the recommended DOT brake fluid. While most cars use DOT3, motorcycles almost always use DOT4 which is designed to withstand the high head motorcycle brakes can often produce. Check your owner’s manual for the correct type of fluid for your bike.

Tips for adding brake fluid:

• Keep everything clean
• Prevent dust or debris from getting into the reservoir
• Make sure your hands and tools are clean
• Always clean the surface of the reservoir before removing the cap
• Lay towels over your motorcycle’s tank and plastics to protect it from accidental spills or splashes. Brake fluid can easily damage the paint.

Pro Tip: NEVER squeeze the brake levers with the reservoir top removed. Doing so can cause air to enter the brake lines and require you to completely bleed the lines and ad new fluid.

If the brake fluid appears dark and cloudy, or if the bike has been sitting idle for more than a couple of years, you should bleed the brakes lines and add fresh brake fluid to the system. Follow this link to read about how to bleed your brakes.

5. Inspect Front Forks for Leaks

Visually inspect the fork seals and look for any signs of fork oil leaking around the seals or dripping down the fork onto the brakes. Sometimes leaky seals will collect dirt in the fork seal area. Check for cracks at the edges of the seals. If your forks have dust covers, inspect them for cracks, rips or holes.

Most motorcycles require that the fork oil be replaced every two years, but, if they are not leaking, and your front suspension is still performing well, the oil can last much longer. Most forks only need maintenance every 12,000 miles, but, check your motorcycle owner’s manual for the recommended replacement intervals.

6. Test the Battery

If you own a motorcycle, you’re certain to be familiar with a battery tender. If not, you can purchase one on Amazon. Keeping your motorcycle plugged in to a trickle charger like that is one of the best ways to keep your battery fully charged when you’re not riding. But, you should still do a check on your battery depending on a few factors.

When was the last time the battery was replaced? If you’re not sure, test it to see how much charge is left on your current battery. If the battery is dead, try giving a start with a portable charger, or use these other jump starting methods found in this article. Or, you can place it on a trickle charger over night, then test it to see if it’s holding a charge. If not, time to replace it.

Visibly inspect the battery terminals for signs of corrosion and clean the terminals if necessary. If you do not have a sealed, maintenance-free battery, check the fluid level in each cell and top it off with distilled water.

7. Check All Lights

Do a visual inspection of all lights on your motorcycle. The headlight and tail lights should be on when you turn on the ignition. Test the high beams on your headlight. If they don’t come on, it’s time to replace the bulb.

Test the brake lights with both the front brake lever and rear brake pedal separately. Test all turn signals, left and right, front and rear.

If you have any auxiliary lights, or other lighted safety features, such as a flashing license plate frame, test them all to make sure all bulbs are functioning properly, and they turn on when they are supposed to.

8. Inspect Clutch Cable for Wear

Do a visual inspection of clutch cable at the point where it connects to the lever as you pull the lever in. This is the most common area where they start to fray. If even one of the cable wires is broken, the cable should be replaced.

If the cable looks blackened and dirty, or if the clutch lever seems stiff, lubricate the cable. You don’t always have to take the cable completely off the motorcycle to do this.

Disconnect both ends of the cable, and spray lubricant down the cable until it comes out the other side. Slide the cable back and forth inside the housing to distribute the lube. Reinstall each end and tighten the adjuster to get just the right friction zone in the clutch lever.

9. Inspect and Test Throttle Cable

A motorcycle throttle will have two cables, a push cable, and a return cable. To test the throttle cables, Roll the throttle back, then let it go. It should immediately snap back into place. If it sticks, it’s time to lube the cables.

Use the same method as lubing the clutch cable: remove the cables at the throttle end and squirt cable lubricant down the cable. When you reinstall the cables to the throttle, adjust the free-play according to your motorcycle’s specifications, usually only a few millimeters.

If you find any rust on the cables, or any broken strands, then replace the cables with new ones. A broken throttle cable can leave you stranded.

10. Check Oil Level

• Start the engine and let it warm up to normal operating temperature
• Turn it off and let it sit for about 5 minutes
• Place the bike on a level surface and stand it up straight with both wheels on the ground
• Inspect the oil by looking at the sight window located on the right side of the bike, near the bottom of the engine casing.
• The oil level should be in between the two lines located next to the window
• Top off the oil a little at a time if it is below the bottom line.
• Be careful not to over fill, which can damage the seals on the engine casing. If the oil is higher than the top fill line, it is recommended that you change the oil and fill it to the correct level.

Note: Some motorcycles have dip-sticks to check the oil, but the same rules apply regarding oil level.

11. Check the Oil Condition

Generally, the oil should be changed about every 5,000 miles. But, if you don’t know the last time it was changed, you can tell by inspecting the color and clarity of the oil.

The oil should be a golden color and it should be translucent. If the oil is dark brown, grey, or foggy, it’s probably time for an oil change.

Open the oil fill cap and check for any unusual odors. The smell of gas inside the oil can be an indication of a problem with the fuel system, or the carburetors.

Check the engine casing for any oil leaks. Works better if you wash the bike first, then let it sit for a few days. If you see anything leaking, look for the source and resolve the issue.

Depending on how long the motorcycle has been sitting idle, you may have to do some work on the fuel system, which includes the gas tank, fuel lines, fuel filters, petcock, and carburetors. The next section addresses everything related to fuel system.

12. Check the Gas Tank

• Inspect the inside of the gas tank for rust. When a motorcycle is stored, it should have a full tank of gas with a fuel stabilizer additive. This will prevent rust from developing.
• If the tank is rusted on the inside, it needs to be properly cleaned before it can be used again. But, the good news is, rust usually doesn’t form unless a bike has been sitting in a barn for a few years.
• If the gas inside the tank is more than 6 months old, it should be drained and replaced with new fuel.

13. Check for Fuel Leaks

Once you get fuel running through the engine, check all the areas that fuel runs through.

• Check all fuel lines for leaks or cracks, especially at the ends where they connect.
• Check the fuel switch, or petcock, for leaks.

14. Do the Carburetors Need Cleaning?

Often, if a bike has been sitting for a long time, the carburetor jets can become clogged and the engine will run rough, or will run only with the clutch open. There are a lot of different symptoms that indicate dirty carbs, so, if it makes sense for you, take the time to clean the carbs.

• Start by running some Seafoam through the carbs to remove varnish or residue created by old gasoline. This may be all you need to do.
• Next step is to remove the carbs and clean, clean the jets, and inspect the needles.
• If cleaning doesn’t work, you can purchase a carburetor rebuild kit for your make and model, and replace the jets and needles.

15. Inspect the Spark Plugs and Gap

When was the last time the spark plugs were inspected or changed? If it’s been over 5,000 miles, you should inspect them. The condition of the plugs can tell you a lot about how the engine is running. Check out this article on when to replace spark plugs.

Changing the spark plugs often involves removing the gas tank, but, it’s a very basic DIY repair job that is inexpensive and doesn’t take long to do. Lastly, use a gap tool to measure and adjust the spark plug gap.

Pro Tip: Install spark plugs that are designed to withstand high heat. NGK is an excellent brand for motorcycles.

16. Inspect the Air Filter

When was the last time the air filter was changed? Motorcycle air filters come in a wide range of styles, sizes and shapes, and a visual inspection on some filters can be difficult.

However, some motorcycle allow easy access to the air filter and are a style that allows you to view how much dust and dirt has accumulated.

Some air filters are washable, allowing you to clean them with water, let them dry completely, then place it back in the motorcycle.

It’s best to check your motorcycle owner’s manual for the filter replacement interval and use that information to make your decision.

17. Clean, Lube and Adjust the Chain

While chain maintenance is part of a pre-ride check list, if the bike has been sitting for a while, now is the time to do a little extra maintenance work.

• Clean the chain with a cleaner designed specifically for chains with seals. Or, use Kerosine to remove grease and dirt. Kerosine won’t corrode the seals and has a fairly low ignition point making it safe to use in a ventilated area. Never use engine degreaser or gasoline to clean a chain.
• Once clean, lubricate the chain with your favorite style of chain lube or chain wax.
• Inspect the chain for signs of rust, kinks, or too much stretch.
• Adjust the tension on the chain so that there is approximately 1 inch of slack.

Related Article: Should You Use WD-40 on Your Motorcycle Chain?

18. Inspect Wiring Harnesses

Grab a flashlight and visually inspect all wire housings for wear. Look under the instrument panel or behind any front fairings for wires that have slipped out of their ties, or are dangling loose.

Make sure none of the wiring is pinched or touching the engine or exhaust; or anything that can melt the housing. If you see any exposed wires, secure them with zip ties, or wrap them with electrical tape to avoid a short.

19. Check the Coolant Level

Check your motorcycle owner’s manual to see where your bike’s coolant overflow tank is located. Most will have indicator lines to tell you if more coolant is needed. Top it off if necessary.

When was the last time the coolant was flushed? Check your owner’s manual for the recommended interval, and do a flush and replace if necessary.

Inspect all the hoses coming from the radiator to make sure they are free from cracks and that the clips are secure.

20. Inspect the Frame for Cracks or Rust

Do a quick inspection of the frame. It’s better to do this step if you have removed the gas tank as you’ll have better access to the entire frame. You are looking for hairline cracks which most often occur at the weld points.

Also inspect the frame or any other metal portions for rust. This is usually not a problem for most motorcycles unless it’s been sitting in a barn for years.

21. Check for any missing clips, cotter pins, zip ties.

Little bits of hardware like clips on hoses, a cotter pin on the rear axle bolt, or zip ties holding everything secure and in place, are important details to keep your motorcycle running properly and keep you safe.

Go around the motorcycle and make sure all these pieces are in good condition and are tightened and secure.

The mechanics of your motorcycle are not the only things you should check when you’re getting ready for riding season. There are other little details that will make your life a lot easier when you’re out on the road.

22. Assemble an On-Board Tool Kit

Most motorcycles will come new with a tool kit. A very minimal tool kit. An on-board tool kit is a compact set of basic tools that you can store under your seat. It should contain tools needed to do the most basic repairs on the road.

Take some time to gather tools that are specific to your motorcycle. Include things like zip ties, spare fuses, a bit of duct tape and electrical tape.

Check out this article about on-board tool kits.

23. Updated Paperwork

One of the items you need to carry with you at all times is your registration and proof of insurance paperwork. Make sure you have the most current printouts on board with you. Most riders will carry a copy protected in a zip-lock plastic bag, stored under the seat.

If you’re motorcycle camping, and you have luggage or a duffle bag packed on top of your seat, it’s a good idea to store your paperwork somewhere that is easily accessible.

Pro Tip: I always keep some cash stored in a plastic bag under my seat. You never know when some extra cash could come in handy.

24. Keys

Where did you put the keys? This is the time to make sure you know where your spare key is. Make sure you have all the keys to your locking side cases, or top case. Find a place to keep your motorcycle key so you always know where it is if you get the urge to ride.

25. Clean and Polish the Motorcycle

Your last step is to give your motorcycle a good bath and polish up all the chrome bits and shiny pieces.

26. Bonus Step: Get Your Riding Gear Ready

Make sure all your gear is in good condition. Keep your helmet, gloves, boots, everything handy where you need it when you get the riding bug. Saddle bags, tank bag, should be stored in their designated garage area so they are easy to find and grab.

Keep a few necessities in your tank bag at all times. Things like chapstick, phone charger, hair brush for riders with long hair, hat, bandana, or whatever you might need on the ride.

Taking the time to go through this pre-season checklist will insure that you’ll have a smooth, trouble free riding season.

Reading Time: 11 minutes

Chain maintenance is one of the first things you should learn about when you own a motorcycle. Without a well-fitted and properly lubricated chain, there’s no way to transfer power from the engine to the wheels. But chains wear out over time and need replacing.

So, how often should a motorcycle chain be replaced? In general, a properly maintained motorcycle can last 20,000 to 30,000 miles, sometimes more. But, some last as little as 5,000 to 10,000 miles. This difference is due to the type of chain, how and where you ride, and how well you maintain it.

Type of chain
Older style chains that do not have O-ring or X seals will not last as long as modern chains with seals. They are more difficult to keep clean because dirt and moisture can get inside the pins and rollers. If they are not constantly kept clean and properly lubed, they will not last the 30,000 plus miles that a sealed chain will last.

O-ring and X seal chains are designed to keep dirt and moisture away from the pins and rollers and to keep a special lubricant inside. As long as you use cleaners and lubricants that do not deteriorate those seals, your chain will last a long time.

Type of Riding
Riding in rough conditions, such as off-road, doing water crossings, or riding in mud or sand, will make it more difficult to clean and maintain the chain and possibly lessen the life of your chain.

Also, excess stress on the chain and sprockets due to racing, track days, constant high speeds, will cause the average chain to wear more quickly. It’s recommended to upgrade to a high-performance chain and sprocket set if you do a lot of track riding or racing.

Chain Maintenance
It goes without saying that improper chain maintenance will cause your chain to deteriorate much sooner. Regular cleaning and lubricating of your chain are probably one of the most important maintenance items you can do, so, clean, lube, inspect your chain on a frequent basis.

Signs that Your Chain Needs Replacing

Chain inspection should be a part of your pre-ride check inspection. It’s just as important as tire pressure and oil level. There are a few things to look for that will tell you when your chain needs replacing.

Rust
Rust can form fairly quickly if your motorcycle gets wet and the chain is not properly lubed. A little surface rust does not always mean your chain is completely ruined, but if the pins and rollers are also rusted, it likely means the seals are bad. In that case, it’s time to replace the chain.

Kinks
Look for links that are stuck causing kinks in the chain. Kinks indicate a weak point where the seals are no longer keeping dust and dirt out of the pins. This weak point is at greater risk of breaking and can cause excess wear on your sprockets.

Noise
A normal chain will make a little noise, but it’s smooth, not clunky. If your chain is making a rattling noise or squeaking, it’s a sign that it needs your attention. If normal cleaning and lubrication don’t get rid of the noises, then replacement is recommended.

Over-Stretched
Chain stretch is normal over time, but there is only so far a chain can stretch before the links are weakened. In fact, the word “stretch” is sort of a misnomer. Your motorcycle isn’t actually pulling a chain hard enough to physically stretch the metal. Instead, the holes where the links attach to each other wear and get slightly larger over time, so the chain appears to expand. In any case, if you find that you can no longer adjust your chain to the proper tension, it’s time for a replacement.

Here’s a good method for checking to see if your chain is stretched too far. For safety, make sure the motorcycle is OFF! With one hand, press down on the top of the chain to add tension. Then check the chain tension around the rear sprocket. The chain should be tight equally, all the way around the sprocket. If portions of it are loose, that means the chain is stretched.

Here’s another way to check to see if your chain is stretched. When your chain is new you should measure the distance between 100 links. Write it down and whenever you take the chain off to clean it measure again. When you can only fit 99 links in the same space you need to change out your chain and sprockets.

How Dangerous is a Worn Out Chain?

Does it really matter if you ride on a worn chain and sprockets? The honest answer is yes, it matters a great deal. A broken chain while riding can be extremely dangerous.

The best case scenario is when the chain breaks, you lose power, and simply pull over to the side of the road and call for a tow.

In the worst-case scenario, a broken chain can be potentially lethal, especially if it causes you to crash at a high speed. Imagine cruising at 70mph, your chain breaks and gets tangled in the rear wheel, ceasing it up.

Another possibility if for the chain to whip around your legs, ankles, and feet, potentially causing injury. Proper riding boots will help, but, any unprotected ankles or feet could end up cut or broken. Ouch.

A broken chain can be flung from the motorcycle into traffic, causing a hazard to other drivers. It’s easy to see why a broken chain is the last thing you want on your ride.

Replace the Sprockets Too? Yes, or No?

A common rule is to replace both front and rear sprockets every time you replace your chain. This is a good rule to follow if your chain has lasted for its full life of, say, 15,000 miles.

But, sometimes a sprocket replacement can wait in cases where you’re replacing a prematurely worn chain. Nevertheless, you should inspect your rear sprocket for signs of wear during normal motorcycle maintenance days.

If you were to replace your chain and keep your old, worn-down sprockets, it will wear out your new chain faster. Likewise, if you replace your sprockets, without replacing your chain, both will wear out prematurely.

Check for Wear in the Sprockets

So, how can you tell if your sprockets need replacement? Sprockets have three really obvious clues to tell you it’s time for a change. You should replace your sprocket:

1. If your sprocket is bent or warped.
2. If some of the teeth are broken off.
3. If the tips of the teeth look sharp and come to a point.
4. If the teeth are more curved in one direction, causing a wave like shape.

The teeth of a good sprocket should be evenly shaped, with equal space in between each tooth, and should have a flat spot at the tip, not a point. In the image below, notice how the worn sprocket teeth have a wave-like shape to them.

It would be more accurate to say it’s gaining unwanted flexibility, but you don’t need to get technical as long as you understand why a ‘stretched’ chain is bad and how to spot it. When your chain is new you should measure the distance between 100 links. Write it down and whenever you take the chain off to clean it measure again. When you can only fit 99 links in the same space you need to change out your chain and sprockets.

New chains can often be purchased in kits that include both sprockets and you can often upgrade to a better quality chain than the original OEM chain/sprocket set.

If you purchase your chain and sprocket set on Amazon, like this Driven Racing Gold RK 520MAXX set, be sure you are purchasing the correct size for your year, make, and model of motorcycle.

Proper Chain Maintenance

Keeping your chain clean, properly lubed, and adjusted will extend the life of a chain by thousands of miles. It’s good practice to quickly wipe down your chain after a long day of riding, (more than 100 miles) then give it a quick spray of chain lube.

In general, you want to lube after riding while the chain is still warm. This gives the lubricant time to set into every crevice and lets any excess fluid evaporation happen before your next ride.

You will want to do a thorough cleaning of the chain and sprockets every 500 to 600 miles, or when it just looks nasty and dirty, even if you haven’t ridden that far.

Additionally, you should always wipe down and lube your chain after riding in the rain. Don’t let it sit in the garage wet, as rust will start forming before you know it.

For a complete walk-through and video on how to properly clean and lube your chain, check out this post: Can I Use WD-40 on My Motorcycle Chain?

How to Replace the Chain and Sprockets

Changing out your own chain and sprockets is a fairly easy job, but there are a few things about it that can be tricky and require some specialty tools and maybe help from a friend.

If you’re new to motorcycles, or if you usually take it to the shop, you’ll find that doing the maintenance yourself is incredibly satisfying. Not to mention, you never know when you’re going to need DIY skills.

Below is a list of tools needed, with links on where you can get them.

• Rear Wheel Stand like this PitBull Stand, or put your bike on its center stand
• A Motorcycle Chain Breaker set
• Spare Cotter Pins if your rear axle requires them
• Socket that fits your front sprocket nut
• Impact wrench, or, if you don’t have an impact wrench, get a breaker bar for the socket and an friend to help with this step.
• Motorcycle chain lube or chain wax, whichever you prefer – Like this stuff
• A piece of wood that fits through the rear wheel
• Having your phone camera on hand helps when you need to note exact positions.

Below is a very quick and simple walkthrough of the steps. If it’s your first time, keep your service manual on hand in case you need a quick reference.

1. Set your bike up on a paddock stand or it’s center stand. This will allow you to remove the back wheel.
2. You’ll need to remove the front sprocket cover. If your gear lever needs to be moved then do this and make sure you know where the position of the splined boss that bolts to the shaft is. If you have trouble with remembering these details use a cell phone camera or another digital camera snap a fast shot for later reference.
3. Remove the nut, which is either a tabbed locking washer or self-locking. If it is tabbed you’ll need to use a punch and hammer or screwdriver to push the tab back.
4. A piece of wood inserted through the back wheel will keep the wheel from rotating. You can wrap it in a soft cloth and make sure it rests against the rear swingarm. If you have a helper, you won’t have to use the wood to keep the wheel from rotating. Instead, have them press on the rear break while you remove the front sprocket nut.
5. Use an impact wrench or breaker bar to remove the nut on your front sprocket but leave the sprocket in place for now.
6. Take off the back wheel. Note: when you lay the wheel on the floor, place it on top of two pieces of wood to keep the brake disk off the ground. This well prevent accidental bending of the brake disk.
7. Undo and remove rear sprocket nuts and the sprocket.
8. Replace rear sprocket.
9. Replace the front sprocket and wrap the OLD chain around it.
10. Loosen the chain adjusters at the swing arms.
11. Refit the wheel and old chain without tightening your spindle nut.
12. Using the chain breaker tool, split the old chain now, but do not remove it from the bike yet. Instead, connect it to one end of the new chain.
13. Use the old chain to pull the new one around your new sprockets and then dispose of the old chain.
14. Connect the new chain with your riveting tool. This is part of your chain breaker tool.
15. Place the front sprocket nut back on and tighten it with the wood back in place on the rear wheel, or with your partner pressing the rear break. Tighten the nut to the required torque settings for your motorcycle.
16. Finally, adjust the tension on the chain and tighten down the rear axle.

Your final steps include a quick inspection to make sure you didn’t miss anything. Re-install the front sprocket cover and chain cover. Take the motorcycle out for a short, slow test drive and inspect the chain once again to make sure everything is working properly.

To wrap it up, keep in mind that proper maintenance of your motorcycle chain will make it last a long time, and means your motorcycle will run smoother and be safer. If you’re interested in reading more articles about motorcycle maintenance you might want to check out our article How Often Should Motorcycle Brake Fluid be Changed?

Reading Time: 10 minutes

It can be very frustrating to gear up and pull out your motorcycle for the first ride of the season, only to find that you’re bike won’t run unless the choke is fully on.

It seemed to be running fine last summer, right? Problems like this don’t just happen when your motorcycle has been sitting for a while either. They can also happen quite suddenly.

So, why does a motorcycle only run with the choke on? It means your motorcycle is not getting enough fuel, and this can be caused by dirty or clogged pilot jets, clogged fuel line, clogged fuel filter, dirty petcock, loss of vacuum in the carburetors, among other carburetor issues.

Narrow Down the Cause

Nine times out of ten the cause is clogged pilot jets. The pilot jets are responsible for providing fuel to the carbs during idle and during the first phase of acceleration, i.e. when you first roll on the throttle. So, if these jets are clogged, even in the slightest, it will prevent fuel from getting into the carbs enough to keep it idling.

Opening the choke, blasts fuel into the carbs to keep it going. But, if you’ve ever had this problem, you know that running on full choke is not feasible. The mixture is much, much too rich, the engine revs much too high, and the bike is almost impossible to ride for any significant distance.

How to Fix It

Let’s start from the simplest solution to the most complicated one. There’s no need to rebuild your carburetors if you don’t have to.

Run Sea Foam Through the System

The first, quick and easy solution (hopefully) is to run Sea Foam engine treatment through the engine to flush out any gunk in the carbs. Sometimes this works if you don’t have a major clog in the jets. Note: if you have a fuel injection system, this is a good way to clean the fuel injectors.

Start by using it as a fuel additive. Fill your tank with the recommended grade fuel for your motorcycle. Add to the tank one ounce of Sea Foam for every gallon of gas in your tank. Ride your motorcycle and allow the additive to work its way through. If this doesn’t work, go to the next step.

The next step is to run the Sea Foam directly into the carburetors. When you do this, be sure to run the bike in a very well ventilated area as the fumes from the burning Sea Foam will be pretty harsh.

• Remove fuel line from the the tank. The one that feeds the carbs.
• Drain the float bowls of any fuel.
• Using a funnel, pour a small amount of Sea Foam into the fuel line allowing the float bowls to fill up again.
• Start your motorcycle and keep pouring about 1/4 to 1/3 can of Sea Foam into the funnel while it runs. Note: you’ll see a lot of white smoke coming from your exhaust. That’s normal.

When your engine burns all the Sea Foam, it will stop. Reattach the fuel line to the tank and let your bike sit for 10 to 15 minutes. Then, start it up normally, and see if it will now run without the choke being wide open. You will have to open the choke to get it running again.

Clean the Carburetors

Did the Sea Foam work? No? Not surprising. Often a clogged pilot jet is too clogged for Sea Foam to be effective. So, to properly fix this issue, you’re looking at a thorough carburetor cleaning involving removal and disassembly of the carbs.

The main task or goal when doing a carb rebuild or cleaning, is to remove the jets and clean each one of them individually using carburetor cleaning and compressed air. You will also clean the inside of the carbs and float bowls, and any inline fuel filters.

I recommend purchasing a carburetor rebuild kit for your specific make and model of motorcycle if you suspect that the jets or needles will be beyond cleaning. These kits run around $50 for a two cylinder engine and $100 for 4 cylinders. It’s a good investment and often means you’ll fix whatever carburetor issues you’re having. Even the ones you didn’t know you have.

Another argument for buying a rebuild kit is, the jets are made of brass, a very soft metal. If you accidentally strip the screw on one of these jets when removing it, you’re screwed, and you’ll need to replace it anyway.

Removal and Dissaembly of Carbs

The procedure for the removal and disassembly of your carburetors is going to depend on the make and model of your motorcycle. This article won’t go into the specific steps for this, but I will share my knowledge on how NOT to screw up the job.

Tip #1 Label Your Hoses

When removing the gas tank, you will need to keep track of what hose goes where when you put it back together. By simply labeling the hoses with some masking tape, you won’t be scratching your head wondering where they go. You can number each hose, and also place a number on the part where the hose attaches. Or, you can use a color-coding system and use a sharpie to mark where the hoses go. However you decide to do it, those labels will be a lifesaver.

Tip #2 Keep Track of Screws, Clamps and Brackets

Before you take something off, take note of where it came from and what screws hold it together. Taking pictures of the process on your cell phone is a great way to do this. Keep all the screws, bolts, and brackets in a container away from work area so that they are not accidentally stepped on, knocked over, or spilled. Using separate small containers for different sections of the bike is very helpful. Again, use the labeling system so you don’t forget where the screws go.

Another trick is to take a thin piece of cardboard or heavy paper and trace out the pattern of the screws on the paper. When you remove a screw from your carbs, stick it through the paper; kind of like a map of where everything goes. This is a perfect trick for those of us who have trouble remembering where that one odd screw is supposed to go.

Also, magnetic parts bowls work great for this kind of job too. You should have one bowl for every carburetor you’re working with so you can keep the jets and screws from getting mixed up.

Tip #3 Organize your Work Area

Once you have the carburetors out of the motorcycle and on your workbench, you will want to keep this area clean and organized. When you start taking the carbs apart, removing little screws, springs and brackets, you will need to keep the parts organized and in order.

Gather only the tools you will need for this detailed work. Limit it to just a couple of screwdrivers, a small wrench, small containers for screws and a small container for cleaning solution. Also, a couple of lint free rags. Lint free is super important. You don’t want to wipe down a part that you just cleaned only to leave a tiny piece of lint inside your carbs.

Lay your carbs and tools on a solid, clean work surface free from cracks or gaps where your screws or jets can fall into. I have an old kitchen cutting mat that I use for jobs like this.

Tip #4 Be Gentle With the Jet Screws

Brass is a very soft metal. Stripping the screw heads is easier than you think. They are also quite small and require a small screwdriver head. So, when you get in there to remove the pilot jet screws, the smallest of the bunch, make sure your screwdriver is properly seated in the groove before you start turning. Turn firmly, while pressing down on the screw. Don’t rush. Once you hear a snap, the seal is broken and the screw should come out with no problems.

Tip #5 Clean Jets with Carburetor Solution and Compressed Air

When cleaning the individual jets, some people will recommend sliding a piece of wire through each hole to clear out gunk. This should be done with extreme caution. You do not want to scratch the inside of the jets or the holes. Remember, brass is soft and it doesn’t take much to scratch it.

The best method for cleaning jets is to soak them in a carburetor cleaning solution, then blow out the jets with compressed air. If you have an air compressor, then you’re all set. But, if you don’t, a can of compressed air will work. Word of caution when using canned air; always hold the can upright when spraying so the chemicals in the can remain in the can where they belong.

Adjusting the Pilot Jets

At this point, let’s assume you have done a proper cleaning or rebuild of the carbs and you’ve successfully put them back together. Don’t put them on the bike just yet. It is super important to make sure the pilot screws are adjusted to your bike’s manufacture specifications. Check your service manual to see how many turns out the screws should be.

When adjusting pilot screws, again, be gentle. Screw them all the way in until you just feel them seat. DO NOT tighten them any further. From there, turn the screws out the recommended number of turns for each carburetor. They may be different, i.e. one carb maybe 2 1/2 turns while the other will be 1 1/2 turns.

Install Carburetors onto the Motorcycle

Once you have all parts reassembled on your carburetors, and your pilot jet screws properly adjusted, then you can install them back onto your motorcycle.

Now you will be glad that you labeled the hoses. Make sure you reattach all the appropriate fuel hoses as well as all the vent hoses, which are equally as important. Make sure the air intake hoses are properly mounted to the mouth of the carbs and that they are properly seated on the air intake box. Leaks in the air intake portion of the system can affect the air to fuel mixture. While you’re at it, make sure the air filter is clean and properly installed.

When installing the gas tank, make sure no hoses are pinched or kinked. Make sure the vent hoses are properly routed down the motorcycle and clear from hot pipes, gears, and the chain.

Once everything is back on the motorcycle and connected again, it’s time to give it a test. Startup the bike with the choke on. Remember, it will take a bit to get the fuel running through the carbs at first. Hopefully, with clean, and properly adjusted jets, your motorcycle will be idling properly without the choke being fully open. Take it out for a test ride.

Other Causes

Vacuum leaks can also cause problems with idle speed and performance. While you have your carbs disassembled, you should inspect the rubber bladder around the main needle for any holes. When assembling your carbs, make sure you do not pinch the edges of the bladder which can cause leaks in the vacuum.

Clogged fuel filters can prevent fuel from flowing freely into the carbs. Check your service manual for the location of any inline fuel filters. Remove them carefully and make sure there is nothing clogging them. If your motorcycle has a gravity fuel delivery system, and a petcock or fuel switch, you should remove the petcock and check the filter at that point. Often, debris from the tank can clog this filter too.

To wrap it up, clean carburetors, fuel lines, and fuel filters will ensure that your motorcycle runs properly. While a carburetor rebuild is somewhat tedious and intricate, it’s definitely something that you tackle do yourself. It takes patience, but, if you don’t rush and if you follow the tips I’ve laid out here, you can get your motorcycle up and running again.

Reading Time: 7 minutes

Spark plugs are one of those things that you don’t think about every time you ride your motorcycle. They are not part of the normal pre-ride checklist like tires or turn signals. But, they can’t be ignored completely. At some point they are going to need to be replaced.

So, how often should you replace your motorcycle plugs? For most modern motorcycles, spark plugs should be replaced every 15,000 to 16,000 miles. But, if your motorcycle is running rough, sputtering, or is losing power, spark plugs should be inspected and replaced if necessary.

Your first step to answering this questions is to check the maintenance schedule in your owner’s manual for the recommended intervals. If your motorcycle is running properly, or if you’ve purchased it new, you shouldn’t have to replace them any sooner. For most motorcycles, it’s every 16,000 miles.

But, if your motorcycle is having engine problems, such as, running rough, sputtering, or it dies at idle speed, part of your troubleshooting process should include inspection of the spark plugs and replacement if necessary.

If you’ve purchased a used motorcycle, especially one that has been sitting unridden for a while, then you should absolutely inspect the spark plugs. Ask the previous owner when was the last time they were changed. If they don’t recall, then replacing them is the safest option.

How to Inspect Spark Plugs

Spark plugs can tell you quite a bit of information about the condition of the motorcycle. When you inspect them, there are a few things you need to look for.

What Does the Color Tell You?

Under normal conditions, the spark plug electrodes will have combustion deposits which are grayish-brown in color. They should be dry and the electrodes should not be misshapen. This color is normal and means your motorcycle is running normally.

If the plugs are wet, or covered in oil, this means that the motorcycle is having more serious issues that should be looked into. It often means that oil is leaking from the valves or pistons. If this is the case, the problem should not be ignored. Have the motorcycle inspected and repaired by a mechanic.

Very dark coloring at the electrodes means that more carbon is being deposited as the engine fires. This is a sign that the engine is running rich, or too much fuel in the mix. The spark plugs should be replaced and adjustments should be made to the fuel/air mixture.

If you’ve been having carburetor issues, such as clogged jets, you will likely need to replace spark plugs after fixing the carburetor problems. Why? If the carbs have been running too rich, it will leave more carbon deposits on the spark plugs. Also, if you’re going so far as to remove the carburetors from your bike, you may as well go the extra step and throw in some new plugs. The cost and time is minimal.

Another sign that your spark plugs should be replaced, is unusual erosion or wear on the terminals, or cracks in the ceramic insulation. If you notice uneven wear on the center electrode, if it’s worn to a point, or if it’s worn more on one side than the other, then it’s time to change the spark plugs.

If the ground electrode is unusually worn or excessively corroded, it should be replaced.

Replacing the spark plugs.

Replacing the spark plugs is one of the more simple motorcycle maintenance jobs you can often do yourself depending on the type of bike you have. If your motorcycle engine allows free access to the spark plugs, it’s as simple as remove and replace.

Some motorcycles require removal of the gas tank to access the spark plugs. While this seems like a tough job, it’s usually pretty basic and can be done fairly quickly. Check your service manual for the procedure for your specific motorcycle.

Spark plug removal requires a special socket called a spark plug socket, of course. These sockets are fairly long and contain a rubber grommet inside that grips the plug’s terminal, making it easy to pull out the plug.

A lot of times a motorcycle’s on-board tool kit, provided by the bike’s manufacturer, will include a spark plug socket. If yours does not, then you can easily find one at any local auto parts store, or motorcycle parts store. Before you go out and buy one, check your owner’s manual to see which size you should purchase.

The steps for replacing your motorcycle’s spark plugs will be very similar to the steps listed below. However, there will be some differences depending on where your plugs are located and how easily they are accessed. A lot of modern motorcycles require removal of the fuel tank. So, before you jump into it, check a service manual for the proper tank removal procedure.

1. Remove gas tank if necessary
2. Remove the spark plug wires by pulling, firmly, straight up.
3. Insert the spark plug wrench into the chamber.
4. Using a wrench or socket wrench, unscrew the spark plug
5. Pull out the socket and the spark plug should come up with it

After removing the spark plugs, inspect them for any signs of unusual wear or coloring. If the color and wear is normal, no further investigation is necessary and you can install the new plugs. However, if you see something out of the ordinary, then you should consider taking steps to fixing any issues your motorcycle may have.

Before installing the new spark plugs, check and adjust the terminal gap. While most of the time a plug will come properly gapped, you should still double check. Look up the recommended gap in your owner’s manual, then measure the gap with a gap tool.

If you need to adjust the gap, do not use a screwdriver wedged in there. Doing this can damage the electrodes. A good gap gauge will come with a gap spreader tool.

To install the new plugs reverse the procedure listed above. Tighten the plugs firmly, but do not over tighten them. You may have to wiggle the socket a little to pull it out.

Before reattaching the spark plug wires, inspect them for any cracks, which can lead to a loss of power. If it’s all ok, then reattach the wires. Make sure you push them down firmly to make sure they are completely seated onto the spark plug terminal.

What Kind of Spark Plug is Best?

Today’s spark plugs have improved a great deal and last much longer than spark plugs that were made 20 or 30 years ago. Also, the material used to make them have improved. The electrode core can be made from copper, platinum or iridium.

Copper is generally the most common and less expensive type, and will be a perfectly good choice for your motorcycle if you ride under normal conditions.

Platinum spark plugs will last longer than copper and can handle higher heat without breaking down. If you ride hard, and your bike runs at higher RPMs, these might be a good choice.

Iridium spark plugs are known for lasting the longest and performing well under harsh conditions, such as racing.

All brands that manufacture spark plugs will offer a range of quality and performance ratings. If you stick with a name brand such as NGK, ACCEL, Autolite or Champion, you’ll be getting a quality spark plug. But, some riders have a brand preference.

Spark plug life on a motorcycle is not the same as spark plug life on an automobile. Although cars can go 100,000 miles without a spark plug change, it’s not so with motorcycles. So, now you know, change your spark plugs every 16,000 miles, give or take, or change them if you have engine problems, especially those related to fuel or carburetor issues.

Reading Time: 8 minutes

Every once in a while the winter weather will be unusually wet, with days and days of rain. This can make it difficult to get out on the motorcycle. But, it’s not always super cold when it rains, and if you’re wearing the right gear, a little rain shouldn’t keep your bike stuck in the garage. Or should it?

So, will rain damage my motorcycle? In most cases, no. Manufacturers make sure that wiring, electrical components, and other parts vulnerable to water, are sealed off and kept dry. Riding in the rain will not damage your motorcycle, but, prolonged exposure to rain and the elements, will eventually cause parts of your bike to deteriorate.

Ever since they were introduced to the public in 1885, motorcycles have always been a favorite option for traveling, either short or long distances. These days, there are more models available on the market than ever before with a host of features even for the most demanding motorcycle owner. Their popularity keeps growing each year, and it certainly doesn’t appear to be ending anytime soon.

Motorcycles Require Special Care

Numerous individuals tend to believe that a motorcycle is like any other vehicle. This is true, but only to a certain extent. In several aspects, the structure of motorcycles differs from other vehicles; thus, the care implemented on them should be different, especially when it is about to rain outside.

Even though it might seem that rain is a good effect due to effortlessly aiding with the cleaning of a motorcycle placed outdoors, avoiding you the hassle of cleaning it yourself, it is not, when you take a look at the bigger picture.

There have been several studies conducted in past and recent times that showcase just how powerful rain can be—to the point of causing destruction to a lot of things it lands on. There are more than a handful of motorcycle manufacturers who have taken note on these studies and thus have persuaded consumers to keep their motorcycles at bay from the rain. There are even some manufacturers who have opted to include a helpful integration to ensure rain does not have a chance in causing destruction. Without a doubt, these have helped consumers around the world be more alerted about this inevitable fact.

What Would Happen If Vulnerable Areas Got Wet?

Electrical connections that are out in the open are the most vulnerable to rain damage. It has also been noted that switchgears, break systems, and batteries tend to take a downfall when rain falls on them continuously. There are a lot of motorcycle owners who believe that these types of issues could be avoided by simply going over motorcycle with a dry rag once rain has subsided, but this is not the case in any situation. Once the rain hits, it penetrates and begins to cause damage, which could become irreversible in some instances.

If the aforementioned vulnerable areas get wet over and over again, you will soon begin to notice their functions deteriorating more and more until they are no longer responsive. These areas are very sensitive to water; thus, for the time being, until manufacturers can create models that are waterproof, you need to go the extra mile in the type of care you implement on your motorcycle before and after use.

Motorcycle repair shops are present to solve a variety of different issues, but if the matter is rain related, there tends to be an absence of a guarantee because there is no assurance that an adequate repair can be achieved, no matter how big or small the problem might be. There have been some cases where motorcycle owners had to either purchase new models or forget about their current models due to having meaningful problems that went hand in hand with water damage. As you can conclude, not opting to prevent issues from arising with your motorcycle could cost your dearly in the financial department, hence why it is always better to prevent rather than lament.

Vintage or Older Motorcycles vs. New Motorcycles

It does not matter if a motorcycle is vintage or new; both deserve the same type of care. This might be surprising to some individuals because there is this popular assumption that in the past motorcycles were manufactured to be more durable, and resistant to water damage than current models. This might appear to be the case at first glance but ultimately this notion is false.

Vintage motorcycles have fewer features than new motorcycles, but even so, most motorcycles with vintage structures share several similarities. Even though there is now more plastic involved in their manufacturing, they are also created using the same types of materials that were used before in a lot of areas. The shell of new motorcycles might appear different to that of old motorcycles, which it is, but only to some extent. Their similarities prevail and thus have a lot in common.

What if you Leave Your Motorcycle In the Rain?

In most cases, as previously mentioned, leaving motorcycle in the rain for a few minutes every now and then would cause its downfall to take place little by little. Now, this is not what would occur if the motorcycle in the rain was left out for prolonged exposure.

Damage could definitely become visible right away. If you are lucky, you might not notice anything, but do not let this convince you that this will come to pass if you opt to leave it in the rain for a long time the second time around. There will be overall damage that you will soon begin to note, which will become worse and worse if it is not taken care of.

Overtime the metal parts of a motorcycle in the rain will also start to rust, especially if areas that don’t have a paint-job for example your brake discs. Also the thin layer of rubber parts on your bike are likely to wear quickly too.

Should It Be Covered when Left in the Rain?

It is highly recommended for motorcycles to not be left outside. A garage would be an ideal area for them to be placed in; nonetheless, there are times when it must remain outside for one or more reasons. If this is the case, it does not matter if there is light rain present, any motorcycle on two wheels, street bike, or touring motorcycle, no matter what year it is, it should be covered.

If you have left your motorcycle in the rain & outside while it was raining and it is somehow not suffering a downfall, purchase a cover as soon as possible to avoid one. Remember that there is no motorcycle exempt from water damage.

Even though there are some manufacturers who are creating heavy-duty motorcycles that can withstand just about anything, they still cannot withstand water damage. Hopefully, this will change in the up-and-coming years so that you have one less worry on your mind, but for the time being, be wise and thus opt for a cover.

What Kind of Cover Is Best?

It very common to see people opting to cover their motorcycles with blankets or any type of plastic they get their hands on. Although these might seem like good options, they are not, especially if the rain outside is heavy. Since rain can occur at any day of the year and at different speeds, a cover is often suggested, one that is manufactured specifically to shield motorcycles from external factors that could cause harm to their functions.

There are some individuals who believe that this type of cover is not really worth it and also believe it is more than likely quite expensive to purchase, but neither of these two assumptions are accurate. It is 100% necessary to have a cover for your motorcycle, and it is quite affordable to acquire one.

There is also a misconception, one that revolves around the idea that a cover is not necessary if motorcycle is going to be kept indoors. This is also incorrect. It is best for every motorcycle to have a cover over it, even if it is in a place that is considered safe.

Besides being able to shield them from the rain, this type of special cover could also shield them to a meaningful extent from air, soil, thermal, radioactive, light, and other pollutions that have been noted to have harmful effects on uncovered motorcycles in more than one aspect.

Compared to the choices available a decade ago, there is now a greater variety of different motorcycle covers on the market to choose from. Contrary to popular belief, motorcycle covers are not made equal. This could easily cause some confusion to arise when you are trying to decide which motorcycle cover is a quality cover and the best choice.

The kind of cover that should be selected is one that is waterproof. Reading the descriptions attached to the bestselling units and then reading the reviews they garnered from consumers could certainly allow you to make a wise selection. Do not think that just because a cover is thin it means that it would do a less successful job in keeping your motorcycle free from water damage than one that is thick. Manufacturers have come up with innovative ways to ensure protection, without having to resort to bulky materials that only result in causing frustration when utilizing them.

Keeping the Longevity of Your Motorcycle Intact

Motorcycles are manufactured of durable materials so that they can last you for many years to come, but even so, it is up to you if your motorcycle ends up having longevity or not. It will all depend on how you take care of it; thus, ensure that it always has a cover on, no matter where it is placed. This type of motorcycle maintenance will certainly aid in keeping it intact.